05-02-2018, 10:34 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2016 2ss Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: South east Mo
Posts: 6
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na vs fi
I am trying to decide on which build is best for my type of driving. My car will never go to a track, only street use, used as a toy not a dd. The only racing it sees is stop light to stop light and rarely over 100mph. Is fi useless in this scenario? Will a na set up with around 500-530 hook better and be more fun to drive? I've never driven a car set up with either fi or na build so I am torn on which way to go.
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05-02-2018, 10:51 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2018 Audi TT RS Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Navarre, Florida
Posts: 1,915
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If that's your goal, you might just want to go with full bolt-ons and E85. You'll hurt plenty of feelings with that setup.
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2018 Audi TT ▊RS
2.4X 0-60, 1.6X 60', 120+mph 1/8th, 4.XX 60-130, 150+mph traps on 255/35/18 R888R tires on the street (unprepped). 2019 Audi RS3 About as fast as the TT RS 2019 Camaro ZL1 1LE Sold 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Sold 2019 Corvette Z06 Sold 2021 Charger Hellcat Redeye Widebody Sold |
05-02-2018, 11:26 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2016 2ss Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: South east Mo
Posts: 6
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I currently have 1&7/8" american racing lt headers, msd intake, ported throttle body, cai, throttle controller, 460rwhp. I am just wanting a little more gettup and go, but not loose traction every time I find myself in a street brawl. Everything Ive read about fi everyone seems to spin until 3-4 gear(i'm a m6).
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05-02-2018, 11:35 AM | #4 |
Drives: none Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Dallas, tX
Posts: 248
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People who spin through 3rd or 4th have no clue how to drive the car and/or are running shit tires. "I cant hook these all seasons"....no shit...
Put a good tire on like an R888R or a drag radial and you can hook. From where you are you are talking about going into a cam and fueling upgrades for more power. How much more? 30-40 is my guess. And on the LT motors you end up spending 4-5k for a cam...plus you need some fueling mods so add more for that. To much money IMO. You could do a take off LT4 blower for not a ton of money. For 6500 you can get a complete kit from Weapon-X. You could sell your MSD intake manifold for 500-600 or maybe more, and you would damn near be even money on a cam AND not lose any driveability that cams can cause AND you would have more HP. |
05-02-2018, 11:51 AM | #5 |
Drives: LSx Powered Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: 19804
Posts: 448
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This scenario is happening a lot after the initial round of bolt ons. The cost-to-gain ratio for the cam in the LTs is right in line with a blower, when you recoup some parts cost. The blower allows for more room in the future to pick up power.
P series blowers from ProCharger let the SS feel stock until it is time to get on it. Less in cost, and less invasive than the LT4 blower swap. Both great options for power. PM us if you need a quote. |
05-02-2018, 11:54 AM | #6 |
Drives: Really Slow Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 56,957
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Nitrous ftw
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05-02-2018, 01:04 PM | #7 |
BAMF SS
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FI leaves more room to go, but you will run out of fueling quicker in a FI build, than with your typical h/c and nitrous setup.
I would say do full bolt ons and see where you like it. For me, the sound of a cammed v8 is a lot more desired than the whine of a supercharger. Different strokes for different folks |
05-02-2018, 01:19 PM | #8 |
Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,298
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NA build can always serve the dual purpose of more power now and prep for big power FI later. The NA will be lighter up front, have better road feel and if your goal is a conservative 500-525hp, then you'll be spending less to hit that number, which leaves more budget for wider rear wheels/tires to hook that power to the ground.
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05-02-2018, 02:24 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2016 2ss Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: South east Mo
Posts: 6
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Thanks to all for the input.
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