12-16-2013, 08:32 AM | #1 |
Drives: '13 2LT RS Convertible - AGM Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Metro Vancouver BC
Posts: 159
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Question re: full polyurethane rear subframe bushings
Hello - I've weighed my options for my 2LT RS daily driver. I have a number of bolt ons but don't plan on supercharging/turboing my car so I'll never be over 400 rwhp. I do want to reduce wheel hop and improve cornering/handling in curves. As a result, I've decided solid sub-frame bushings would be overkill and not worth the added price premium.
I'm getting the Hotchkis sways (F/R) and BMR rear trailing arms and toe rods installed so I will have to get my cradle down anyways, I'm leaning towards BMR BK024 full poly bushings instead of inserts. I was initially looking at the EP1201 from Pedders but they seem to have fallen from the face of the earth so I have some concerns there. Questions: 1. How often will I need to lubricate these after install? Even though they are non-rotating, I don't want to get squeaks or friction that will impair their operation. 2. What is involved in lubricating them after - does anything have to be removed to do it? Please let me know soon as I gotta pull the trigger on some bushings soon! |
12-16-2013, 08:55 AM | #2 |
having FUN now 13.66@101
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I installed the Pedders EP-1200 rear cradle kit myself. They provide a lubricant that you apply during install. After that there is no further maintenance required. At least nothing that I have ever read prior to my install.
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12-16-2013, 09:04 AM | #3 | |
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But first off, just because you are changing sway bars, toe rods, and trailing arms does NOT mean you have to drop your cradle, none of those parts require the cradle to be lowered. Well, I take that back....sorta!!! The Drivers-side inner toe rod bolt does require the cradle to be lowered down just a little.....but certainly not removed!!! Secondly, once installed, there is no need to lubricate the "full" Cradle Bushings....ever. There is little to no movement of any of the surfaces, so no lubrication is needed. You might want to see if this guy still has these....seems like a good deal!!! http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=319840 |
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12-16-2013, 09:06 AM | #4 | |
COTW 9/16/13
Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Camaro IOM Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Syracuse
Posts: 10,089
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For some reason when installing toe rods some cars require the rear cradle to be lowered a little because the bolt on the driver side is blocked my the gas tank. I know on my car it is that way which is why I have held off on installing my pfadt toe rods, although I am not sure why some cars require it to be done while others don't. |
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12-16-2013, 09:13 AM | #5 | |
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12-16-2013, 01:41 PM | #7 | ||
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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12-16-2013, 09:52 PM | #8 |
Drives: '13 2LT RS Convertible - AGM Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Metro Vancouver BC
Posts: 159
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Yeah - the driver's side bolt was exactly what I was referring to with the drop. I don't think inserts alone will satisfy the handling I want so I figured the full poly cradle bushings was the way to go. BMRs it is - thanks for the info on the greasing of these.
Assuming there's more rotational movement on the toe rod / trailing arm bushings, is there a need to grease these after install? Vendors - which Santa is going to PM me the best deal on a set of BK024s? I'm bummed about this mystery surrounding Pedders - the EP1201 and their XA coilovers were on my short list of mods. |
12-17-2013, 05:59 AM | #9 |
BL1ZZRD
Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 7,840
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The BMR toe links and trailing arms have grease fittings for a grease gun, except for the outer TA bushing. I'm bummed about Pedders too! Thankfully I got my full cradle bushings done and got my Zl1 sway bar conversion before they dissappeared! They'll be back bigger and better soon I hope!
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