02-12-2013, 11:03 AM | #15 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
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In my experience with Energy for the 5th Gen, they are a very soft compared to Pedders. Don't waste your money on Energy bushings. They are $150 because that's what they are worth. Spend a little more and get a better performing bushing. The Energy bent with ease where the Pedders moved but took a hell of a lot more force to do so and even then I couldn't squeeze them in half.
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-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
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02-12-2013, 11:05 AM | #16 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 2,610
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Good starting list of modifications for the suspension:
Pfadt Race Engineering 1 - Sway Bars (Front & Rear) 2 - Rear Arm Package (Trailing & Toe Rods) 3 - Poly Lower Control Arm Bushing Set 4 - Subframe Bushing 6061 Billet Set I know a thing or two about how to launch these beasts at the track with the proper suspension. Been a best of 1.39 60' on ALL Pfadt street catalog parts with 17" DOT's. Went 1.41 60' last year on 18" Mickey Thompson DOTs. |
02-12-2013, 11:09 AM | #17 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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We have never had an issue with our trailing arms so I am not sure what exactly you are talking about? We have recently had some issue with the outer trailing arm bushings which we have just recently redesigned and will be providing to anybody who has the any issues so all BMR customers will be taken care of.
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02-12-2013, 12:07 PM | #18 | |
Drives: 2012 45th Vert, 2011 4x4, 9sec Vega Join Date: Mar 2012
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Quote:
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02-12-2013, 01:05 PM | #19 |
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Drives: 2020 6.2 Trail Boss, 2022 XC90 Join Date: Jan 2010
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I was referring to bmr outer trailing arm bushings...the arms are perfectly fine.
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02-12-2013, 06:51 PM | #20 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
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Quote:
Nicely played! Great reference indeed! Glad you got some good answers here and we appreciate everyone recommending our products. We are always here to answer questions for you so don't be afraid to give me a call or a PM with questions on the performance, installation, or durability of our products or any suspension-related topics. Thanks! -Blair 888.972.2464 |
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02-12-2013, 06:51 PM | #21 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 3,370
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Quote:
-Blair |
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02-12-2013, 07:21 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro SS 45th Anniversary Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Las Vegas
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02-13-2013, 10:25 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2012 45th Vert, 2011 4x4, 9sec Vega Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada
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I'm saying don't waste your money replacing perfectly good metal parts. Change out the bushings in said parts to stiffer ones. That is the source of the problem.
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02-13-2013, 04:01 PM | #24 |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Louisville, Ky.
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They are a lot of the problem but they are not ALL of the problem. The more power the car makes the more true that becomes. Not to mention that there is an opportunity to shed unsprung weight which has performance benefits.
Last edited by Apex Motorsports; 02-13-2013 at 04:37 PM. |
02-13-2013, 04:08 PM | #25 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
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02-13-2013, 06:45 PM | #26 |
Drives: 2012 Camaro SS 45th Anniversary Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 387
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In my opinion you already have the part off the car to change the bushing. Why not just buy a stonger more durable part that comes with better bushings. I guess if money is super tight bushing would help considerably but I wouldnt just rule out after market parts either....
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02-13-2013, 07:48 PM | #27 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
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If the part ever failed I would agree but I haven't seen a single one at any power level. So you're adding weight and expense for no reason since strength/durability is a non-issue. Excluding the sway bar tabs which can be fixed with 50 cents worth of scrap metal and a welder.
There's 2 reasons to change it: 1) Drag wheel clearance 2) Adjustable units because someone slammed their car, needs to get their alignment in spec, and is indifferent to the fact that they'll blow their CV joints with their new extreme angle from the drop. Last edited by Synner; 02-13-2013 at 08:09 PM. |
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drag racing, wheel hop |
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