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Old 02-12-2013, 11:03 AM   #15
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In my experience with Energy for the 5th Gen, they are a very soft compared to Pedders. Don't waste your money on Energy bushings. They are $150 because that's what they are worth. Spend a little more and get a better performing bushing. The Energy bent with ease where the Pedders moved but took a hell of a lot more force to do so and even then I couldn't squeeze them in half.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:05 AM   #16
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Good starting list of modifications for the suspension:

Pfadt Race Engineering

1 - Sway Bars (Front & Rear)
2 - Rear Arm Package (Trailing & Toe Rods)
3 - Poly Lower Control Arm Bushing Set
4 - Subframe Bushing 6061 Billet Set

I know a thing or two about how to launch these beasts at the track with the proper suspension. Been a best of 1.39 60' on ALL Pfadt street catalog parts with 17" DOT's. Went 1.41 60' last year on 18" Mickey Thompson DOTs.

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Old 02-12-2013, 11:09 AM   #17
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I would suggest reading the threads about the bushing issue on the BMR trailing arms. Pfadt, nuff said.
We have never had an issue with our trailing arms so I am not sure what exactly you are talking about? We have recently had some issue with the outer trailing arm bushings which we have just recently redesigned and will be providing to anybody who has the any issues so all BMR customers will be taken care of.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
In my experience with Energy for the 5th Gen, they are a very soft compared to Pedders. Don't waste your money on Energy bushings. They are $150 because that's what they are worth. Spend a little more and get a better performing bushing. The Energy bent with ease where the Pedders moved but took a hell of a lot more force to do so and even then I couldn't squeeze them in half.
Those are the cradle inserts. I saw your thread and ordered bmr for my car because of it. The rest of the bushings are very stiff.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:05 PM   #19
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I was referring to bmr outer trailing arm bushings...the arms are perfectly fine.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:51 PM   #20
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Camaro5 Forums Rocks! ...I'll be calling some of the contacts, but I gotta wait until the bonus check arrives. I sure hope it's not a "Jelly Bean of the Month" subscription, or I might have to ask cousin Eddie to help out.


Nicely played! Great reference indeed!

Glad you got some good answers here and we appreciate everyone recommending our products. We are always here to answer questions for you so don't be afraid to give me a call or a PM with questions on the performance, installation, or durability of our products or any suspension-related topics. Thanks!

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Old 02-12-2013, 06:51 PM   #21
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Wasn't jelly bean of the month it was just jelly of the month and its the gift that keeps on giving!



but back to topic, yes this forum rocks! always get great answers. However, this forum makes me want to spend money I don't have! lol
dude where did you find that? hysterical!

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Old 02-12-2013, 07:21 PM   #22
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This^^^ Replace the top 3 parts with good aftermarket ones and you will solve the wheel hop issue.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:25 AM   #23
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I'm saying don't waste your money replacing perfectly good metal parts. Change out the bushings in said parts to stiffer ones. That is the source of the problem.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:01 PM   #24
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I'm saying don't waste your money replacing perfectly good metal parts. Change out the bushings in said parts to stiffer ones. That is the source of the problem.
They are a lot of the problem but they are not ALL of the problem. The more power the car makes the more true that becomes. Not to mention that there is an opportunity to shed unsprung weight which has performance benefits.

Last edited by Apex Motorsports; 02-13-2013 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:08 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Cruuzin LV View Post

This^^^ Replace the top 3 parts with good aftermarket ones and you will solve the wheel hop issue.
There is zero reason to replace the control arm for wheel hop.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:45 PM   #26
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In my opinion you already have the part off the car to change the bushing. Why not just buy a stonger more durable part that comes with better bushings. I guess if money is super tight bushing would help considerably but I wouldnt just rule out after market parts either....
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:48 PM   #27
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If the part ever failed I would agree but I haven't seen a single one at any power level. So you're adding weight and expense for no reason since strength/durability is a non-issue. Excluding the sway bar tabs which can be fixed with 50 cents worth of scrap metal and a welder.
There's 2 reasons to change it:
1) Drag wheel clearance
2) Adjustable units because someone slammed their car, needs to get their alignment in spec, and is indifferent to the fact that they'll blow their CV joints with their new extreme angle from the drop.

Last edited by Synner; 02-13-2013 at 08:09 PM.
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