Stripped bolt in head... - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

DavidtheM · 08-26-2018, 06:20 PM

I made a rookie mistake and this happened... over torqued bolt and it snapped in the head. How messy of a fix is this? I'll be taking my car to a shop for this, just want to know how serious it is and what it will take to fix

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Clarkstar · 08-26-2018, 06:45 PM

Take the intake off and see if you can get the bolt out. Use a small pick or screw driver to turn it out

zz430camaro · 08-26-2018, 07:47 PM

What he said ^^^^^ may be put some PB Blaster in the hole and let it sit over night too.

MrBowTi3 · 08-27-2018, 02:43 AM

I've done it before. Had to use a easy out, but if it snaps clean it should just take a slow steady hand. Took all of 15 mins if that.

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MrBowTi3 · 08-27-2018, 02:44 AM

Replace with ARPs from summit

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GT Kilr · 08-27-2018, 04:18 AM

Well, here is the deal. Most of those manifold bolts thread into an open cavity above the lifter trays. Drilling it is a very delicate process. I would try turning it with a pick as Clarkstar suggested, and if that does not work, try to center punch it and use a Left Handed drill bit, but make absolutely sure you drill as shallow as possible.

Russell James · 08-27-2018, 08:04 AM

Intake bolt? Should be a piece of cake. Remove manifold. Tap lightly downward on remaining bolt. Work at it until it comes out.

Keep in mind a bolt with no head has no torque on it. The only thing holding it in is the thread bind. Tap downward lightly to release the thread bind.

Don't make it worse... if that doesn't work easily find someone really good at using an EZ out. And not just getting in there and hogging it out with a big drill. That small a bolt with next to no tq should come out with ease. If broke off below the head surface, drill a pilot hole in the center and EZ out it. Do not hog out the head hole until an absolute last resort.

If you do see it is below the head surface, could set the manifold back on and use that sleeved hole as a guide to center pilot drill into the bolt. Use a new really good bit and put some tape around the shank to keep it centered in the manifold sleeve. Then EX out. The key is no drilling into head material, and make sure the pilot hole is starting in the center of the broken bolt. It's an art that takes practice. Often drilling down into it will grab the bolt by itself, cuz...it's just sitting in there once the thread bind releases.

Juiced1 · 08-27-2018, 09:39 AM

Just be patient and you'll get it

DavidtheM · 08-27-2018, 10:25 AM

Thanks all for the advice! I'll be purchasing some ARP bolts. Haven't had time to take the IM off yet, but sounds like I won't have too much trouble removing the stripped bolt

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Russell James · 08-27-2018, 01:13 PM

Save your money on the fancy bolts and spend it on a service manual and really good torque wrenches. Also get an angle meter. Many bolts these days are tq to yield, measured by angle not tq.

It's a dry manifold, very little tq required. Hence the reason for small bolts. OE bolts work perfect. The sleeve is also there to try to prevent crushing from over tq. The next line of defense is small bolts. If you up the bolt strength, you are removing one of the overtq defense strategies.

Lubing up ARP bolts on an LS motor is a sure way to induce tons of problems. If you've modded something justifying increasing the tq, such as forced induction, then it's time to up the fastener strength...ie head studs. Even then, using the wrong lube can cause way over-torque. If using a plastic stock manifold, I can't imagine why a stronger bolt would be needed.

Synner · 08-28-2018, 05:07 AM

I agree on the torque wrench, no need for expensive bolts just the right tools. Snapping off hardened bolts just makes extraction tougher.

Russell James · 08-28-2018, 09:23 AM

The best tool you could ever buy for a car is the service manual.

The intake bolts require threadlocker. 5 N-m on the first pass. 10 N-m on the second pass.

Matty Ice · 08-29-2018, 08:39 AM

Another option: If you remove the manifold and depending what is left of the bolt, you can use a Dremel- cut a slot in the bolt and use a flathead screwdriver and back it out.

DavidtheM · 08-29-2018, 02:10 PM

Thanks all for the input. It's extremely helpful. Here's a close-up of the damage with the intake manifold off

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08-26-2018, 06:20 PM	#1
DavidtheM Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: San Diego Posts: 124	Stripped bolt in head... I made a rookie mistake and this happened... over torqued bolt and it snapped in the head. How messy of a fix is this? I'll be taking my car to a shop for this, just want to know how serious it is and what it will take to fix Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

08-26-2018, 06:45 PM	#2
Clarkstar Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Ixonia wi Posts: 1,456	Take the intake off and see if you can get the bolt out. Use a small pick or screw driver to turn it out __________________ 2013 1le- Katech 416 short block, TSP custom grind cam, LOD intake, cnc heads by F.ED., Nick William's 102mm T.B., CORN fed, Pedders coilovers. Performance street alingnment by Justin at Lake Country Alignment and dyno tune by Late Model Throttle. 603 h.p. 495 ft lbs tq.

08-27-2018, 02:43 AM	#4
MrBowTi3 Drives: 2013 1SS Victory Red Camaro Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Jonesboro, Georgia Posts: 154 View My Garage	I've done it before. Had to use a easy out, but if it snaps clean it should just take a slow steady hand. Took all of 15 mins if that. Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk __________________

08-27-2018, 02:44 AM	#5
MrBowTi3 Drives: 2013 1SS Victory Red Camaro Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Jonesboro, Georgia Posts: 154 View My Garage	Replace with ARPs from summit Sent from my LG-G710 using Tapatalk __________________

08-26-2018, 07:47 PM	#3
zz430camaro Drives: 2015 1LE Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 1,485	What he said ^^^^^ may be put some PB Blaster in the hole and let it sit over night too.

08-27-2018, 04:18 AM	#6
GT Kilr Drives: 2011 RJT 2SS Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Georgetown, KY Posts: 26	Well, here is the deal. Most of those manifold bolts thread into an open cavity above the lifter trays. Drilling it is a very delicate process. I would try turning it with a pick as Clarkstar suggested, and if that does not work, try to center punch it and use a Left Handed drill bit, but make absolutely sure you drill as shallow as possible.

08-27-2018, 08:04 AM	#7
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Intake bolt? Should be a piece of cake. Remove manifold. Tap lightly downward on remaining bolt. Work at it until it comes out. Keep in mind a bolt with no head has no torque on it. The only thing holding it in is the thread bind. Tap downward lightly to release the thread bind. Don't make it worse... if that doesn't work easily find someone really good at using an EZ out. And not just getting in there and hogging it out with a big drill. That small a bolt with next to no tq should come out with ease. If broke off below the head surface, drill a pilot hole in the center and EZ out it. Do not hog out the head hole until an absolute last resort. If you do see it is below the head surface, could set the manifold back on and use that sleeved hole as a guide to center pilot drill into the bolt. Use a new really good bit and put some tape around the shank to keep it centered in the manifold sleeve. Then EX out. The key is no drilling into head material, and make sure the pilot hole is starting in the center of the broken bolt. It's an art that takes practice. Often drilling down into it will grab the bolt by itself, cuz...it's just sitting in there once the thread bind releases.

08-27-2018, 09:39 AM	#8
Juiced1 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 2SS CAMARO 45th Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: St. Charles, IL Posts: 18,663	Just be patient and you'll get it

08-27-2018, 10:25 AM	#9
DavidtheM Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: San Diego Posts: 124	Thanks all for the advice! I'll be purchasing some ARP bolts. Haven't had time to take the IM off yet, but sounds like I won't have too much trouble removing the stripped bolt Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

08-27-2018, 01:13 PM	#10
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Save your money on the fancy bolts and spend it on a service manual and really good torque wrenches. Also get an angle meter. Many bolts these days are tq to yield, measured by angle not tq. It's a dry manifold, very little tq required. Hence the reason for small bolts. OE bolts work perfect. The sleeve is also there to try to prevent crushing from over tq. The next line of defense is small bolts. If you up the bolt strength, you are removing one of the overtq defense strategies. Lubing up ARP bolts on an LS motor is a sure way to induce tons of problems. If you've modded something justifying increasing the tq, such as forced induction, then it's time to up the fastener strength...ie head studs. Even then, using the wrong lube can cause way over-torque. If using a plastic stock manifold, I can't imagine why a stronger bolt would be needed.

08-28-2018, 05:07 AM	#11
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	I agree on the torque wrench, no need for expensive bolts just the right tools. Snapping off hardened bolts just makes extraction tougher.

08-28-2018, 09:23 AM	#12
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	The best tool you could ever buy for a car is the service manual. The intake bolts require threadlocker. 5 N-m on the first pass. 10 N-m on the second pass.

08-29-2018, 08:39 AM	#13
Matty Ice Drives: 2015 SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 537	Another option: If you remove the manifold and depending what is left of the bolt, you can use a Dremel- cut a slot in the bolt and use a flathead screwdriver and back it out.

08-29-2018, 02:10 PM	#14
DavidtheM Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: San Diego Posts: 124	Thanks all for the input. It's extremely helpful. Here's a close-up of the damage with the intake manifold off Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk