Clutch Pedal Acting Wierd

[BandRcAMARO]

So I have read all the threads about the clutch pedal sticking or acting odd. Most threads never come to a conclusion or each has its own fix. I'll start off by saying that my car has a McLeod RST Twin Disc Clutch, GTO separate resevoir, and Tick Remote Bleeder Line. Clutch was installed 5k miles ago, new slave cylinder and throw out bearing were installed also at that time.

The Issues: Clutch one day got stuck half way down, then like 3/4 of the way down on a long hot drive in traffic home. It still shifted fine and would disengage. I got home, bled it out completely with Motul 600. And Tada, worked perfect for about a month. Last week the same issues happened. Bled it, lasted about half a day. Now I have been driving it like this, in the morning the clutch will be fine and normal, after about 20 mins of driving it gets stuck half way down. If I get stuck in traffic for too long then its stuck 3/4 of the way down. Been doing this the past 4 days now. Last night I bled it again when I got home from work and it felt good again, until this morning on my drive, 20 mins in, half way down... It is driving me insane....Anyone out there have any idea?

[JD555]

Is your return spring broken or removed? I think I saw on a post a few weeks ago on this forum about aftermarket spring that helps.
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L360091410.html

[BandRcAMARO]

Its not broken, and that spring just covers up the issue but doesnt actually fix it.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by BandRcAMARO

Its not broken, and that spring just covers up the issue but doesnt actually fix it.

Agreed.

If I may ask, how are you bleeding it...

The reason I ask, is in my field of hydraulics, even with shaft seals and dust covers, eventually contamination get through into the line and or reservoir fluid. This leads to excessive leakage or sticking... Are you flushing enough fluid through it to fully replace the fluid in the slave cylinder and enough additional to ensure completely clean returns.

If you are doing the flush properly, then you might have an issue with the plastic sleeve at the input shaft. I'm not well versed in that so maybe others can chime in... I know one or two of the clutch companies offer a machined metal replacement...

There is also a remote possibility there is an input shaft issue not noticeable or affecting this situation until such time as the shaft and bearings heat up...

I tend to think it's a contamination issue if it got/gets better for a bit then right back to it... I hope you figure it out soon, sounds like a pain...

[SSE 4 2SS]

You posted this in the correct area, however, since you have aftermarket parts, I think we might get a better viewing and responses in the clutch specific forum... moving it for you...

[Pk222]

This is the issue I was just having but full stock setup. I bled it every way possible and got full pedal a few times thinking I was good just to have 2” of clutch pedal after a few minutes of driving. 65,000 miles on mostly stock ss. The bearing retainer was slightly burnt. New billet retainer was all I needed but replaced everything while it was out.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by Pk222

This is the issue I was just having but full stock setup. I bled it every way possible and got full pedal a few times thinking I was good just to have 2” of clutch pedal after a few minutes of driving. 65,000 miles on mostly stock ss. The bearing retainer was slightly burnt. New billet retainer was all I needed but replaced everything while it was out.

This is the plastic bit I was referring to earlier... Thanks PK... I knew someone would have it...

[BandRcAMARO]

Originally Posted by Pk222

This is the issue I was just having but full stock setup. I bled it every way possible and got full pedal a few times thinking I was good just to have 2” of clutch pedal after a few minutes of driving. 65,000 miles on mostly stock ss. The bearing retainer was slightly burnt. New billet retainer was all I needed but replaced everything while it was out.

Sounds like the same issue, what bearing retainer did you swap out?

[SSE 4 2SS]

Here is the information for one manufacturer of this item... Tick Performance also offers one... there may be others...

http://monsterclutches.com/billet-re...earing-support

This is the installation guide for the bearing support...

http://monsterclutches.com/billet-bearing-install

[BandRcAMARO]

Originally Posted by SSE 4 2SS

Here is the information for one manufacturer of this item... Tick Performance also offers one... there may be others...

http://monsterclutches.com/billet-re...earing-support

This is the installation guide for the bearing support...

http://monsterclutches.com/billet-bearing-install

Thanks, im thinking of swapping the master cylinder also?

[Pk222]

Ideal garage is the only company I know of to make an upgraded master cylinder for our cars that I know of. I’ve heard of ram making one but haven’t seen it. I installed mine right after getting my car but didn’t see much difference.
I used the tick performance bearing retainer only because I ordered my clutch and everything else through them. I’m sure both tick and monster will both be better over the stock plastic piece. Both are billet pieces.

[BandRcAMARO]

Gotcha, i talked to Tick and they are releasing a master for 5th gens soon, they have a good track record with the 4th gen camaro one they offer so might wait on that.

[Pk222]

I’m looking foreword to theirs. The ideal garage may have been a better upgrade starting with an aftermarket clutch. With the stock I didn’t notice much at 25,000 miles.
Tick was nice enough to refere me to the ideal garage master a few years ago before they had one in the works

[BandRcAMARO]

Well Pk, just got the email yesterday from Tick that they started preorders for the master cylinder. They will ship them later in august but even the early promo price is 400 bucks