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Old 09-26-2016, 01:41 PM   #29
Billy10mm

 
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If the aging process only needs 350 degrees F, then aren't we in danger already, since brake pads can get to a 1000 degrees F, and I'm sure they would transfer a few hundred degrees F to the wheels? I'm a bit confused about all this to be honest.
This thread is a few months old and I've already gotten my wheels powder-coated (finish came out GREAT!!!)

However, when I first brought it to my coating guy, he insisted that he does forged wheels all the time and he's never had a problem with the high temp stuff. I take that with a grain of salt as very few people actually track their cars, and even fewer so are fast and put real lateral stresses on wheels, but I called two places to get their take: HRE and Forgeline.

I called up both places and asked about powder-coating their forged wheels, and both said to use low-temp powders. So, there's that.

I believe the problem is the length of time spent at temp. I guess that a 20 to 30 minute track session, followed by cool down, is a lot different than a coating, where it stays in the oven for hours on end. But I'm just guessing here.
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Old 09-26-2016, 01:53 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by X25 View Post
If the aging process only needs 350 degrees F, then aren't we in danger already, since brake pads can get to a 1000 degrees F, and I'm sure they would transfer a few hundred degrees F to the wheels? I'm a bit confused about all this to be honest.
I agree with Billy that the soak time during curing being a longer duration plays an important role.

I would also think that the "weakest" point on the wheel likely does not see the same level of heat transfer while tracking the car as it would in a curing oven. I'm guessing the center hub on the wheel is where it gets the hottest during tracking since it directly contacts the rotor (conductive heat transfer) and I'm guessing the hub was designed to be stronger than say the spokes out at the lip of the wheel are.

So in other words there are probably higher strength safety factors built in where the wheel will see the most heat during tracking and get hotter than the 350°. When you powder coat the wheel the entire wheel regardless of location will see the curing temperature and be heat soaked for a longer duration so that will likely have a larger impact on the material strength then.
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Old 09-26-2016, 02:46 PM   #31
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I guess we'd need an expert to know more (metallurgist? Structural engineer?), but I'd think just because the duration is shorter might not mean we don't sustain aggregate damage in time, especially considering even higher temps those hubs might see.

This talk now makes me wonder if this is one of the reasons why OEM forged wheels are always heavier than aftermarket : )
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Old 02-14-2017, 11:45 AM   #32
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I talked to my Powder Coat guy and he was telling me that he runs 300° for about 12 minutes, now he also did my car's SS cast rims and they have been on my car for several years with out issue. Now he did say that low cure temp takes longer dwell time in the oven than standard powder so whats really the difference, just more time for the wheel to get to heat soak.
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Old 02-14-2017, 12:41 PM   #33
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Cast rims don't have the same issues as forged rims. Cast rims you can do regular powder coats on, but forged rims (our OE rims) go through a delicate annealing process during construction.

While your powder coater says he runs 300 degrees for 12 minutes, what he means is that he runs the substrate at 300 degrees for 12 minutes. When you stick a wheel in a 300 degree oven, it takes a long time before the deepest part of the aluminum gets up to temperature (think of how a steak or burger cooks, outside is done while center can still be cool). So the wheel will still see hours worth of time in the oven.

The difference is in temp. Once you get the wheel above 400 degrees, you are essentially starting another annealing process. This is bad as too much annealing makes the wheel brittle. You want to keep any powder coating of forged rims under 300 degrees.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:42 PM   #34
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Billy,can you tell me where you got the wheels powdercoated? been looking for a place on the east coast. thanks
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Old 03-15-2017, 12:53 PM   #35
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Prodigy Coatings in Fishkill, NY. Very reasonable prices, and quality work (I can show you my wheels if you're ever in the White Plains NY or Stamford CT areas). He had a limited number of low-temp colors, but satin black was one that he had. He has plenty of regular-temp colors, but for the forged rims, I stayed away.

As soon as I pull my winters off in another month or two, I'll be bringing them up to him for some wheel repair (I scuffed one) and a powder coat to satin black (my winter wheels are gloss black, I'm not fond)
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Old 03-15-2017, 01:03 PM   #36
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ok,thanks. the satin black looks stock?

Last edited by dynoray; 03-15-2017 at 01:04 PM. Reason: add text
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Old 03-15-2017, 01:23 PM   #37
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Billy, If you're willing to travel to Connecticut/MA line, a place called Play Nice Customs (on Facebook) powdercoated mine for $100 per wheel and that included repair of road rash on two of my wheels. They are located near Congamond lakes near Southwick, MA. They did a fantastic job by the way, looks better than stock.
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:43 PM   #38
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Yes, satin looked stock. Great match.
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  • Driving Nannies: If I'm that far out of shape on the street, something has gone terribly wrong and by all means Mr. Computer man, come and get me.
  • G2s: Rock throwing is like like a tramp stamp; although problematic, it's a sign of good things to come.
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:46 PM   #39
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Yes, satin looked stock. Great match.
Follow up pics on your powder coating Billy?
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Old 11-07-2018, 05:26 PM   #40
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BBD powder coating in Syracuse has done a lot of parts for me in the past with great quality and prices. I had mostly motorcycle parts done there. Not sure what they are charging currently for a full set of car wheels now as it’s been some years since I had any powder coating done.
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Old 11-07-2018, 05:35 PM   #41
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Oh I remember when getting things powder coated you can save some bucks if you get your items abraded yourself before giving items to the coaters. Typically a good quick blast of fine glass bead cleans just about anything up enough for good etching and cleaning so the coaters can just go right in on the powder coating work. I found a ton of places that will do the preparation I just drop off and pick up. Pretty cheap to if you do the running around from the abraiders to the coaters.
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