12-31-2019, 02:06 PM | #1 |
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Rear cradle bushing preliminary install 2 post lift
I have seen all of the DIY threads for removing the rear cradle bushings. All of them have been on the ground with jackstands and heat method. I will be doing mine from a 2 post lift. I also picked up the ridetech rear bushing removal kit for $20.00, so no heat method.
Any recommendations when doing it on a 2 post lift? Dont want the rear cradle hitting me in the head. Do i still need to disconnect the rear sway bar, the LCA's, and the struts to get the cradle to move enough to get the old ones out and the new ones put in? Do i still have to worry about supporting the rear cradle in the center as i dont have a transmission lift or anything? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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2010 1SS/RS LS3 M6
Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger, 3.00" Pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Stainless Power LT Headers, LPE Dual Fuel Pump, ID850's, Custom Grind Cam, Katzkin Leather/Suede Interior 630RWHP mustang dyno. |
12-31-2019, 03:36 PM | #2 |
With a two post lift I would just drop the entire cradle and do it. Easiest with a lift like that.
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2014 1LE - Sold
2014 Z/28 #99008 CTF SIM |
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12-31-2019, 03:44 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,155
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Really, the same thing has to happen whether is on jack stand or on a lift. The back wheels are off the ground and the cradle is hanging free. You might consider getting an under hoist jack stand https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...and-61600.html. I did mine with a 4 post lift but still had to lift the car off the wheels.
I'm not sure about how much clearance you need for the tool. When I installed the BMR bushings I used the heat method and followed the other DIY threads and disconnected everything. I would think with the tool you still have to get the thickness of the stock bushing worth of clearance, maybe even more. I swapped the BMR for solid last week and was able to just unbolt/loosen the subframe enough not get the 2 piece BMR out and the new ones in. |
12-31-2019, 07:27 PM | #4 |
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Trying not to remove the entire cradle. I thought about getting a cheap under hoist jack like that for safety reasons.
I dont need much spacing to get the tool in as it looks like this. Just a small plate you have to put in there. But i also need enough space to put the new solid cradle bushing in.
__________________
2010 1SS/RS LS3 M6
Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger, 3.00" Pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Stainless Power LT Headers, LPE Dual Fuel Pump, ID850's, Custom Grind Cam, Katzkin Leather/Suede Interior 630RWHP mustang dyno. |
12-31-2019, 07:37 PM | #5 |
Account Suspended
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The whole thing just comes right out, as one unit. Sway bar stays on:
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12-31-2019, 07:51 PM | #6 |
NEcamaro5
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I’ve done this. When you lower the rearend down with it still in the car put rags buy the axle boots. I cut one of my boots on part of the lower frame.
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12-31-2019, 09:41 PM | #7 |
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I know, but i feel just for cradle bushings i dont think its necessary to drop the entire assembly. I think i am going to try and do it still in the car. I will mostly be doing it by myself, so i would most likely have to wait for help on holding the exhaust when removing, holding the cradle, etc if i drop the entire assembly.
__________________
2010 1SS/RS LS3 M6
Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger, 3.00" Pulley, Roto-Fab CAI, Stainless Power LT Headers, LPE Dual Fuel Pump, ID850's, Custom Grind Cam, Katzkin Leather/Suede Interior 630RWHP mustang dyno. |
01-02-2020, 08:08 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,155
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Quote:
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01-02-2020, 12:50 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2SS 1LE Silver w/Recaro NPP Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Chester county, PA
Posts: 139
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Don't remove the whole thing. Just drop it down far enough to replace the mounts.
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-BtrBimmer
'14 2SS 1LE NPP Recaros |
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