P0449 code 2011 Camaro SS - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Jonesee20 · 03-27-2020, 02:22 PM

Well i took the car for a ride the other day when it was around 60 degrees here in Michigan, on my way home the CEL came on. Once i got home i scanned it and P0449 came up. With some research it looked like it could be a loose gas gap, which is was not or the canister valve solenoid. So after searching the web and only finding how to replace the 2010 camaro V6/V8, and knowing the Canisters are very different for my 2011 V8.

I may be an idiot and there maybe a video or explanation but couldn't find it.

So, I decided to do a write up. It can be done without the rear end begin lowered/removed and other components that are in the way. Its similar to the other 2010 camaro videos and instructions on forums but on the 2011 the canister doesn't have to be removed and and again the canister is much different than the one in videos on the 2010.

On the 2011 just the solenoid is removed from the canister and then replaced. I will post pictures and instructions on how i did it (someone may have a better way). This took me just over an hour, and some patience. It beats taking it to the shop, i was quoted at $600, they say the book says its about a 4-5 hour job. I have a mechanic friend and he said he'd do it for $200, so that was my last option if i couldn't do it.

tools needed:
ratchet
2- extensions
10mm socket
long flat screwdriver
long needle nose pliers
LED Flash light
jack
2 jack stands
New SOLENOID with the HARNESS autozone part number-PV450-$40
AND PATIENCE

first properly jack up the car, secure the jack stands in a good spot under the car on each rear side.

this is optional but i did remove the rear passenger side tire, i dont think it would have been in the way but i did anyway.

identify where the canister and solenoid are located.

find the solenoid plug harness. Using the flat head you can reach the plug harness and disconnect from the solenoid. After this has been disconnected you can use both the long flat head and long pliers to rotate the solenoid counter clockwise(which from underneath just rotate it up.)

Then find the TWO-10mm bolts holding the canister in place, one is at each end(driver and passenger side), remove the passenger side 10mm bolt all the way out, this is where you'll need the extension and a universal, there are some things kinda in the way for it to be straight shot to the 10mm. Loosen the driver side 10mm just enough to where the canister drops just past the metal bracket/frame(where the solenoid is sticking out of the canister), so you can pull the solenoid free from the canister. You can fit your hand up there but its a tight squeeze, you may have to wiggle the solenoid a bit to free it, i just used the needle nose and got it out. I will also say i did somewhat tighten the driver side bolt back up so the canister wasn't that loose and didn't have that much play.

Once solenoid is out, put new one in...LOL.... This is where you'll need your hand to feel for the hole and rotate and push the solenoid into the canister. This took some time and patience. This took me about 10 minutes because of the space you have to work with. Once in place, i used my other had and reached to where the 10mm bolt on the driver side was, and push the canister toward the aft of the car and as i did that with my other had seated the solenoid and rotated it to the locking position.

Tighten up both 10mm bolts on each side. Using the harness that came with the solenoid, plug it into the end of the existing harness first, then route it to the solenoid. After I routed close to the solenoid, I used the long needle nose pliers and pushed the connector onto the solenoid until you hear the click, that is when you know its secure.

I cleared the code and drove the car for around 30 minutes and hasn't came back on. Drove it today for about 50 miles and still no CEL....

again this may not be the best way and someone may have a different input but this is how i did it and I saved a lot of money. Just be very patient and take you time. You'll get your knuckles messed up but its worth it.

hopefully this all makes sense and the pictures are helpful

dretoven · 03-10-2024, 08:19 PM

Bringing this thread back from the dead. Thanks for the write up with pics!! I just had the same light pop on my 2013 SS and replacing the gas cap didn't do the trick. Gonna give this a shot next weekend to see if I can get my CEL to clear. I think this is why I'm starting to smell a exhaust/engine smell in my car all of a sudden as well. Not a mechanic what so over but after reading your write up, i think i may be able to give this a shot. Sure beats giving the dealership 800 bucks for the job smh.

03-27-2020, 02:22 PM	#1
Jonesee20 Drives: 2011 Chevrolet Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Fenton, MI Posts: 22 View My Garage	P0449 code 2011 Camaro SS Well i took the car for a ride the other day when it was around 60 degrees here in Michigan, on my way home the CEL came on. Once i got home i scanned it and P0449 came up. With some research it looked like it could be a loose gas gap, which is was not or the canister valve solenoid. So after searching the web and only finding how to replace the 2010 camaro V6/V8, and knowing the Canisters are very different for my 2011 V8. I may be an idiot and there maybe a video or explanation but couldn't find it. So, I decided to do a write up. It can be done without the rear end begin lowered/removed and other components that are in the way. Its similar to the other 2010 camaro videos and instructions on forums but on the 2011 the canister doesn't have to be removed and and again the canister is much different than the one in videos on the 2010. On the 2011 just the solenoid is removed from the canister and then replaced. I will post pictures and instructions on how i did it (someone may have a better way). This took me just over an hour, and some patience. It beats taking it to the shop, i was quoted at $600, they say the book says its about a 4-5 hour job. I have a mechanic friend and he said he'd do it for $200, so that was my last option if i couldn't do it. tools needed: ratchet 2- extensions 10mm socket long flat screwdriver long needle nose pliers LED Flash light jack 2 jack stands New SOLENOID with the HARNESS autozone part number-PV450-$40 AND PATIENCE first properly jack up the car, secure the jack stands in a good spot under the car on each rear side. this is optional but i did remove the rear passenger side tire, i dont think it would have been in the way but i did anyway. identify where the canister and solenoid are located. find the solenoid plug harness. Using the flat head you can reach the plug harness and disconnect from the solenoid. After this has been disconnected you can use both the long flat head and long pliers to rotate the solenoid counter clockwise(which from underneath just rotate it up.) Then find the TWO-10mm bolts holding the canister in place, one is at each end(driver and passenger side), remove the passenger side 10mm bolt all the way out, this is where you'll need the extension and a universal, there are some things kinda in the way for it to be straight shot to the 10mm. Loosen the driver side 10mm just enough to where the canister drops just past the metal bracket/frame(where the solenoid is sticking out of the canister), so you can pull the solenoid free from the canister. You can fit your hand up there but its a tight squeeze, you may have to wiggle the solenoid a bit to free it, i just used the needle nose and got it out. I will also say i did somewhat tighten the driver side bolt back up so the canister wasn't that loose and didn't have that much play. Once solenoid is out, put new one in...LOL.... This is where you'll need your hand to feel for the hole and rotate and push the solenoid into the canister. This took some time and patience. This took me about 10 minutes because of the space you have to work with. Once in place, i used my other had and reached to where the 10mm bolt on the driver side was, and push the canister toward the aft of the car and as i did that with my other had seated the solenoid and rotated it to the locking position. Tighten up both 10mm bolts on each side. Using the harness that came with the solenoid, plug it into the end of the existing harness first, then route it to the solenoid. After I routed close to the solenoid, I used the long needle nose pliers and pushed the connector onto the solenoid until you hear the click, that is when you know its secure. I cleared the code and drove the car for around 30 minutes and hasn't came back on. Drove it today for about 50 miles and still no CEL.... again this may not be the best way and someone may have a different input but this is how i did it and I saved a lot of money. Just be very patient and take you time. You'll get your knuckles messed up but its worth it. hopefully this all makes sense and the pictures are helpful Attached Images __________________ 2011 Chevy Camaro SS, L99, cold air inductions CAI, Stainless Power LT off road headers, ported TB, SLP Loud mouth axles back exhaust, SCT tune from DynoSteve.

03-10-2024, 08:19 PM	#2
dretoven Drives: 2013 Chevrolet Camaro 2SS Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: St. Louis, MO Posts: 47	Bringing this thread back from the dead. Thanks for the write up with pics!! I just had the same light pop on my 2013 SS and replacing the gas cap didn't do the trick. Gonna give this a shot next weekend to see if I can get my CEL to clear. I think this is why I'm starting to smell a exhaust/engine smell in my car all of a sudden as well. Not a mechanic what so over but after reading your write up, i think i may be able to give this a shot. Sure beats giving the dealership 800 bucks for the job smh.