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Old 08-27-2016, 05:52 PM   #15
joeyofblades
 
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Is this true for the rear brembos too or just the front? I replaced the fronts but doing rears soon and want to know if I should be buying new caliper bolts for the rear.
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Old 08-27-2016, 06:07 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by joeyofblades View Post
Is this true for the rear brembos too or just the front? I replaced the fronts but doing rears soon and want to know if I should be buying new caliper bolts for the rear.
It's true for front and rear bolts. That's why I try to keep at least one full set of caliper mounting bolts on hand at all times.

Also when reading the thread I see that people are suggesting to use loctite to keep them from coming loose. It's not that the torque to yield makes them so they won't stay tight. It means that they have actually been stretched to the point where the material has been yielded. This means their actual strength has now been weakened so they will break with less load on them. I'm not sure why people think that using loctite will fix the issue with torque to yield. The yielding part has permanently stretched the body of the bolt and no amount of loctite is going to fix the stretched material. So I know it seems like a pain to have to buy new bolts but I prefer to replace them when they are removed.

If I were in a pinch and I had no new bolt to replace it with and I had to mount the caliper back on to drive it home or something I would tighten it as good as I could and hopefully get the car where I needed to get it and then replace the bolt ASAP.
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Old 08-27-2016, 09:18 PM   #17
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Given the overall cost of parts and general maintenance on these case, $4 per bolt seems like such cheap assurance that things are correct. A bolt is the last thing I want to worry about when going at track speeds.
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:22 PM   #18
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What Nick S said....
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:58 AM   #19
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They're $2.80 per bolt on GM parts direct, plus whatever they charge for shipping. Sounds like something that's good to keep a set of around if you have a safe place to keep them. Or if you're like me and between apartments constantly then just buy 4 when you are doing a brake job. I reused them on my fronts (which I now realize was a blunder) but I'm also not doing intense track days or anything, it's just a daily driver. Once I get my house down payment ready and have an actual space to work, I'll replace them as a set because I have to go anti-seize the torx screw in the rotors anyway...
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:08 PM   #20
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GM caliper bolts have been TTY single use bolts for about two decades. They should be replaced after a single use.

I have been in umpteen GM Dealership shops doing training on suspension parts. I have never seen a GM World Class tech replace a caliper bolt. When I tell them they are TTY, most are surprised. I have been in the pits at umpteen SCCA track and autocross events and have never seen a racer changing the bolts. In my shop, if they are available at the GM dealer, we change them. If not we use LocTite and tighten to German spec gudentight.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:25 PM   #21
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GM caliper bolts have been TTY single use bolts for about two decades. They should be replaced after a single use.

I have been in umpteen GM Dealership shops doing training on suspension parts. I have never seen a GM World Class tech replace a caliper bolt. When I tell them they are TTY, most are surprised. I have been in the pits at umpteen SCCA track and autocross events and have never seen a racer changing the bolts. In my shop, if they are available at the GM dealer, we change them. If not we use LocTite and tighten to German spec gudentight.
This kind of surprises me coming from you Pete. With as big of a safety advocate that you have always been on the forum, and I believe you are also a fellow mechanical engineer as I am, I would think that knowing the OEM bolts are TTY you would refuse to mount a caliper with a previously used bolt.

I know your examples above show many examples of even GM techs not following the replacement requirement but just because everyone is doing it...doesn't make it right or safe. I'm not trying to call anyone out here. I know that you do way more high performance brake jobs than I ever will so you have way more experience to pull from, I'm just a little surprised that you are not more firm on your stance with this one. It sounds like you make every effort to replace the bolt so I read that as your Standard Operating Procedure is to replace them. Just sounds like you are less firm on that requirement than I thought you would be.

What I have looked for is to see if a company like ARP makes replacement bolts that can be used without being TTY. But I have not had any luck finding any on their website yet.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:55 PM   #22
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This kind of surprises me coming from you Pete. With as big of a safety advocate that you have always been on the forum, and I believe you are also a fellow mechanical engineer as I am, I would think that knowing the OEM bolts are TTY you would refuse to mount a caliper with a previously used bolt.

I know your examples above show many examples of even GM techs not following the replacement requirement but just because everyone is doing it...doesn't make it right or safe. I'm not trying to call anyone out here. I know that you do way more high performance brake jobs than I ever will so you have way more experience to pull from, I'm just a little surprised that you are not more firm on your stance with this one. It sounds like you make every effort to replace the bolt so I read that as your Standard Operating Procedure is to replace them. Just sounds like you are less firm on that requirement than I thought you would be.

What I have looked for is to see if a company like ARP makes replacement bolts that can be used without being TTY. But I have not had any luck finding any on their website yet.


It is a practical reply and not a technical one. Getting the TTY fasteners is problematic and when you can't get them you do the best you can. The risk isn't a bolt shear failure. The risk is the bolt coming loose. LocTite and a grunt or two is very close in staying tight to a TTY fastener..

That said, the right, correct and safest process is a new TTY bolt and you are right to call me out ANYTIME safety is in question.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:57 PM   #23
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As for a replacement bolt, I haven't found any either.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
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GM caliper bolts have been TTY single use bolts for about two decades. They should be replaced after a single use.
Really? I never heard anything about this for 98-02 f-bodies... Those bolts are a different size than the 5th gen's, different spindle. The 5th gen and CTS-V2 use the same caliper mounting bolts and the 4th gen and the CTS-V1 use the same caliper mounting bolts.
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:00 PM   #25
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Really? I never heard anything about this for 98-02 f-bodies... Those bolts are a different size than the 5th gen's, different spindle. The 5th gen and CTS-V2 use the same caliper mounting bolts and the 4th gen and the CTS-V1 use the same caliper mounting bolts.
All TTY
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:29 AM   #26
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All TTY
Oops.
I'll fix it next time I do brakes lol. Time to go look for those GM part numbers. I have the ones for the 5th gens, here they are for anyone curious and reading this:

Front: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/11570788
Rear: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/11515781
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Old 08-29-2016, 01:22 PM   #27
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Just my .02....from an old guys perspective. I have never replaced a caliper bolt (unless broke or stripped) Never used any loctite.....never lost or had one ever come lose.
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:34 PM   #28
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I have a sidebar in my book regarding TTY bolts. Obviously it has to do with internal engine bolts, but some of the concerns are the same.

In addition, the GM techs may not read the service manuals (and once in a while they're wrong), but I do. I always replace TTY bolts.
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