rear cradle woes - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Pewter · 04-14-2019, 12:46 PM

ok so heres my problem, i have a '10 ss m6. the car doesnt wheel hop at all with the full bmr rear suspension on it including diff bushings and upper control arm mounts. however after my recent cam install when i do a hard 2nd or 3rd gear pull the ass end wags back and forth so bad i practically have to get out of the throttle. im assuming this has to be the stock subframe bushings that i never replaced but i figured i would check here first to make sure im on the right track.

KillboyPowerhead · 04-14-2019, 06:11 PM

Stiffer rear cradle bushings will most certainly help keep the rear planted while accelerating, if that's what you're asking. I can recommend solid aluminum bushings by Pegasus - they make a huge difference.

Chris49066SS · 04-14-2019, 06:17 PM

I agree

Pewter · 04-14-2019, 07:13 PM

just trying to be sure thats whats causing my problems, i cant think of what else it could be

Avenging Orange · 04-14-2019, 07:26 PM

I'm sure the added power has a lot to do with it. I'm sure cradle bushes will help....and maybe some sticky tires.

wakespeak · 04-14-2019, 09:10 PM

Cradle bushings will keep the subframe from unevenly moving, but the cause is likely your diff/limited slip. The truetrac made a big difference for me. The car just drifts when it breaks loose, rather than a back and forth steering affect.

Also the 1LE/ZL1 toe links keep the wheel hub in place fore/aft by replacing the rubber bushing with a spherical bushing. Cheaper/easiest to install.

Pewter · 04-15-2019, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wakespeak

Cradle bushings will keep the subframe from unevenly moving, but the cause is likely your diff/limited slip. The truetrac made a big difference for me. The car just drifts when it breaks loose, rather than a back and forth steering affect.

Also the 1LE/ZL1 toe links keep the wheel hub in place fore/aft by replacing the rubber bushing with a spherical bushing. Cheaper/easiest to install.

you kinda lost me, are you saying you think my truetrac is causing it?

i already have bmr toe links, trailing arms, upper control arm mounts, sway bars, diff bushings, 1le shocks and shock mounts

CamaroFred · 04-15-2019, 05:52 PM

I am on stock power so I installed inserts before I did anything else.
Took all that wishy-washy out of the ass and were relatively easy to install.

With more power you may need poly or solid bushings.

Pewter · 04-16-2019, 10:06 AM

Do Pegasus bushings ever go on sale?

QUICRNU · 04-16-2019, 10:33 AM

Pegasus bushings were awesome for my car, good price!

zlathim · 04-16-2019, 10:40 AM

I don't have solid bushings, but if I had it to do over again I would probably go that direction. The reason is that it was a chore to get the poly bushings installed in the cradle. Much more difficult than I had imagined. I haven't heard the same issues with solids, so all things being equal I would go for the easier install.

Pewter · 04-16-2019, 10:45 AM

I think the reason I never did subframe bushings was a combination of price, not wanting to mess with getting the old ones out, and honestly the rear end movement was never that bad. So getting the rubber bushings out isn’t that bad?

KillboyPowerhead · 04-16-2019, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pewter

I think the reason I never did subframe bushings was a combination of price, not wanting to mess with getting the old ones out, and honestly the rear end movement was never that bad. So getting the rubber bushings out isn’t that bad?

They're not bad to get out using the ol' heat method (or whatever you want to call it). There is a video on YouTube (search for "camaro removing rear cradle bushings" or something).

Basically, you need to lower the rear cradle enough to fit a 1" wide socket above each bushing, place the socket on top of the bushing, centered, and jack up the cradle (using one jack to support the cradle at the differential and one to push up on the cradle near the bushing), and with the weight of the car on the socket/bushing (so lift the car off the jack stand that you'd probably have near the rear wheel) heat the cradle around the bushing with a torch. Eventually the bushing/glue will get hot enough to melt, and with the weight of the car on the bushing it will slide out. Send me a message if you want more details but that's the gist of it.

I'm pretty inexperienced in general with car/mechanical stuff and pretty much only went by videos and DIY guides and I managed to do it myself in the driveway, so you can do it too! Getting the new solid bushings in is super easy, just make sure to clean out the bushing holes (I used a knife while the glue was hot to scrape it out), and throw the new bushings in the freezer so they shrink. If they are being stubborn to get in, make sure to centre them in the hole really well then just jack up the cradle against the frame to push them in.

Pewter · 04-16-2019, 01:43 PM

Thanks for the info, I had planned on using the socket method to get the old ones out.

04-14-2019, 12:46 PM	#1
Pewter Drives: '10 ABM 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 71	rear cradle woes ok so heres my problem, i have a '10 ss m6. the car doesnt wheel hop at all with the full bmr rear suspension on it including diff bushings and upper control arm mounts. however after my recent cam install when i do a hard 2nd or 3rd gear pull the ass end wags back and forth so bad i practically have to get out of the throttle. im assuming this has to be the stock subframe bushings that i never replaced but i figured i would check here first to make sure im on the right track. __________________ Kooks \| SW \| GPI \| BTR \| ADM \| Bo White TB \| BMR \| FE6 \| Hotchkis \| 3.91s \| Truetrac \| Pegasus

04-14-2019, 06:11 PM	#2
KillboyPowerhead Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 931	Stiffer rear cradle bushings will most certainly help keep the rear planted while accelerating, if that's what you're asking. I can recommend solid aluminum bushings by Pegasus - they make a huge difference. __________________ Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts

04-14-2019, 06:17 PM	#3
Chris49066SS Drives: 2010 SS L99 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,634	I agree __________________ Previous PB:11.079 @ 122.99mph.. New setup time: TBD The 11.079 pass: https://youtu.be/pz27Zq54t_E Build thread - www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555371

04-14-2019, 07:13 PM	#4
Pewter Drives: '10 ABM 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 71	just trying to be sure thats whats causing my problems, i cant think of what else it could be __________________ Kooks \| SW \| GPI \| BTR \| ADM \| Bo White TB \| BMR \| FE6 \| Hotchkis \| 3.91s \| Truetrac \| Pegasus

04-14-2019, 07:26 PM	#5
Avenging Orange Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Clermont, IN Posts: 3,297	I'm sure the added power has a lot to do with it. I'm sure cradle bushes will help....and maybe some sticky tires. __________________ 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419. Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8 https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34 KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!!

04-14-2019, 09:10 PM	#6
wakespeak Drives: 2020 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,335	Cradle bushings will keep the subframe from unevenly moving, but the cause is likely your diff/limited slip. The truetrac made a big difference for me. The car just drifts when it breaks loose, rather than a back and forth steering affect. Also the 1LE/ZL1 toe links keep the wheel hub in place fore/aft by replacing the rubber bushing with a spherical bushing. Cheaper/easiest to install. __________________ 2020 ZL1 1LE [Moroso SC Expansion Tank, otherwise stock]

04-15-2019, 05:52 PM	#8
CamaroFred Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 2,998	I am on stock power so I installed inserts before I did anything else. Took all that wishy-washy out of the ass and were relatively easy to install. With more power you may need poly or solid bushings. __________________ 2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM

04-16-2019, 10:06 AM	#9
Pewter Drives: '10 ABM 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 71	Do Pegasus bushings ever go on sale? __________________ Kooks \| SW \| GPI \| BTR \| ADM \| Bo White TB \| BMR \| FE6 \| Hotchkis \| 3.91s \| Truetrac \| Pegasus

04-16-2019, 10:33 AM	#10
QUICRNU Drives: Z06 wannabe Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Daytona Beach, FL Posts: 1,200	Pegasus bushings were awesome for my car, good price! __________________ Apex Focused

04-16-2019, 10:40 AM	#11
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	I don't have solid bushings, but if I had it to do over again I would probably go that direction. The reason is that it was a chore to get the poly bushings installed in the cradle. Much more difficult than I had imagined. I haven't heard the same issues with solids, so all things being equal I would go for the easier install. __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA

04-16-2019, 10:45 AM	#12
Pewter Drives: '10 ABM 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 71	I think the reason I never did subframe bushings was a combination of price, not wanting to mess with getting the old ones out, and honestly the rear end movement was never that bad. So getting the rubber bushings out isn’t that bad? __________________ Kooks \| SW \| GPI \| BTR \| ADM \| Bo White TB \| BMR \| FE6 \| Hotchkis \| 3.91s \| Truetrac \| Pegasus

04-16-2019, 01:43 PM	#14
Pewter Drives: '10 ABM 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 71	Thanks for the info, I had planned on using the socket method to get the old ones out. __________________ Kooks \| SW \| GPI \| BTR \| ADM \| Bo White TB \| BMR \| FE6 \| Hotchkis \| 3.91s \| Truetrac \| Pegasus