Track pad swapping?

[kaba]

Hi guys,

Rookie question here, I've seen a lot of mixed results searching the web on this topic so I am curious what your opinions are on swapping between stock pads and race pads for track day use.

I'm very novice, my Camaro is my summer daily driver, and I try to get out to open car lapping once or twice a year at my local track. Admittedly I spend more energy on trying to get my lines down and driving in a more technically correct form so I do not believe I push my 13 ss anywhere close to the limit, and I do not run long sessions, maybe 10 minutes maximum including warm up and cool down laps and 20 minute breaks. I plan to continue down this path, with no intention on any competitive track time, only competing against myself to try and get better.

I've been contemplating track pads on the oem rotors, due to some safety concerns about overheating the brakes. Again I do not believe I am close to that point, but I'd rather be safer. Now that being said track pads for my daily commute would most likely be a disaster which is why I thought about doing the swaps. I saw that video of the guy here with brake failure on low oem pads and it kinda freaked me out.

Obviously my fear of swapping is warping the rotors, I have read that if you keep with the same manufacturer between track and street pads it lowers the risks of warping when you bed the pads.

What do you guys do? What are your opinions on this?

While I'm on the subject of safety, do you guys have links to any checklists you follow prior to doing any track or ac events? I'm thinking like inspect rotors, check tire pressure check lug nut tension check fluid levels etc.

Thank you so much for helping a rookie out!

Sent from my MI 6 using Tapatalk

[MJanowich]

I've done it plenty, between Hawk HP+ and OEM and now Hawk Street/Race and OEM. Haven't run into issues.

[Crash76]

I run carbotech 1521s on the street and 24/12s at the track... ( u might not want something as aggressive ) , bur the pad materials are
Compatable between the street 1521s and the track pads

[600hp-lpe]

also as important as upgrading brake pads is to replace the brake fluid with a good quality DOT4 brake fluid. The higher boiling point temp of the better brake fluid will help.

[Olddudesrule]

I'd say, swap in DOT4 fluid, and keep running your OEM pads until you can feel you're out braking them. It will happen as your skill level grows, but as you've said, you're still learning the basics. The OEM's are good, solid pads, and will last. I actually upgraded my rotors before I upgraded my pads.....

[kaba]

Thanks guys great advice! DOT 4 swap will be high priority this spring, and that buys me some time for new pads.

For my curiosity, swapping between track and road pads is just the standard bedding process every swap?

Appreciate it!

2013 Black LS3

[Norm Peterson]

I suspect you could get away with an abbreviated re-bedding session going from your track pads back to previously bedded street pads. Not at all sure about going from street back to track, though.

Tech inspection stuff . . . here's a couple of links, and I've attached .pdf's from a couple more. Most organizations will require your pads to be less than half worn when you arrive.

Hooked on Driving . . . https://www.hookedondriving.com/first-timers

Chin . . . http://chintrackdays.com/forms/techSheet.pdf


Norm

[Virus]

when I used to drive my track car to the track I would just leave my track pads on, no point to swap really

[Lonewolf583]

I've done it a few times while running GLOC pads. Hit the rotor with 80 grit, and do a bedding session before loading it on the trailer or driving it to the track.

[TWOFORTYZ]

I wouldn't want to re bed the pads over and over. Just run a GREAT pad such as the Porterfield R4S and go from there. They stopped great below freezing and never faded on my 240Z with stock size brakes and a lot of abuse. Different car, but friction material is friction material, and load is load. I cracked and warped many 240Z rotors...

The Camaro is a whale, but no way are the factory brakes as bad as a 240Z. The 240Z went from lame to out braking (stock) porsches with just R4S pads, lines, and ATE racing fluid. I used them for everything, and a lot of what I call power commuting. Insert road racing and other high stress inappropriate driving stories here...

I wouldn't swap pads also because I need consistency. I randomly decide to go 10/10 for a few hundred yards of empty road, and why confuse myself and run two different pads? I would have issues with my driving style if I had a lack of predictability.

[TWOFORTYZ]

Use race pads for commuting if you can ignore random brake noise as you wear into new sections of metallic material. It goes away with firm or weak braking from my experience. Other than that, the R4S pads stopped on a dime from 0* all the way to killing rotors. They had a great coefficient of friction even at low temps, much better than stock even while cold. They were phenomenal. That being said, I haven't needed them yet on the Camaro, I just enjoy using the momentum and being reasonably safe and smooth like a miata.

[Norm Peterson]

Noise and dust are minor issues in comparison to accelerated rotor wear. Only the first two may be ignored/overlooked at no potential peril to yourself or others . . .


Norm

[HOJO]

I know this thread is a little inactive currently but, I don’t have track experience but was wondering, do you guys use the same rotors when you swap pads back and forth? If so do you label the pads so they go back on the same rotor?

[toehead93]

I wouldn’t waste my time worrying about swapping pads. I’ve done that and the extra money for two sets of pads and all the wasted time could be better spent. For the price of both sets of pads you can get Endless MX72 pads. It’s hard to find good discussions about them but visit the Porche and GTR forums to see more discussions from people who track their cars hard.

The MX72 pads have a long life, they’re soft on rotors, can handle higher temps and don’t need to be hot to work. Dusting is relatively low compared to most racing pads and they don’t squeal. I can’t think of a single bad thing except for cost. But I’ve run them at Daytona and Sebring with no trouble at all. You don’t need upgraded rotors either, most track pads kill rotor life, squeal like pigs, and have short life spans.

If you’ve ever heard the old saying buy once cry once, these pads apply. Best part is I didn’t even cry because I bought them from shops in Hong Kong and they were MUCH cheaper including delivery then buying them anywhere else. Just call them to get the correct pet numbers.