ARP Rod Bolts

[racesloth]

Hey all,

I am going to have the oil pan off the car to install the improved racing baffle. Enigine will be lifted some what, thinking of replacing the engine mounts too.

My question is this. While the pan is off, can I replace the stock rod bolts with ARP rod bolts one at a time. If anyone has done this was there enough clearance to properly torque the bolts?

Thanks,

[Schluney]

I wouldn't think you would have enough room to comfortably do this. I would leave them alone if it were me. Stock are plenty strong for cam and bolt on's.

[johna7200]

The problem with that is the arp rod bolts clamp your rods better and it also makes there inner diamiter small with will destroy your bearings. Yhe big end of your rods would need to be resized

[K1SSRSS]

Leave them alone, if your not forged, your motor is not going to hold enough power to warrant ARP rod bolts, the stock bolts are pretty good and wont be the weak link. By swapping them out at this point of the game, you are just asking for an issue with clearances etc.

[willhe64]

I wouldn't touch the rod bolts just for the sake of that.

[racesloth]

Sounds good - I will leave them alone. My buddy and I are rebuilding his LS3 (wiped out his cam on a track day) and since we have had to get the crank turned down we are going with ARP bolts - we were uneasy about retorquing "to-yeild" bolts....

[trw427ss]

There is nothing wrong with changing the rod bolts to ARP bolts. It does not affect the clearances and the factory crack rods can't be resized! I changed mine at 7000 miles and as you can see it hasn't hurt mine! Also one of the guys here changed his out over 40,000 miles ago.

[PFL]

Originally Posted by trw427ss @ Futral

There is nothing wrong with changing the rod bolts to ARP bolts. It does not affect the clearances and the factory crack rods can't be resized! I changed mine at 7000 miles and as you can see it hasn't hurt mine! Also one of the guys here changed his out over 40,000 miles ago.

as you removed the bolts of the rods ??? they are caught in the lower layers of the stem and do not seem to leave. you did some rework on the stems to fit the arp ???

[racesloth]

The stock rod bolts have a ferule in them that keeps them from falling out - but the bolts can easily be removed. Plenty of youtube videos....

[K1SSRSS]

Any time you change any part dealing with a bearing surface you have the potential to affect clearances.

To those who changed to the ARP rod bolts, I assume you plastiguaged the bearings to confirm the clearances were in spec, which is fine and will tell you if your ok. But trying to swap out the rod bolts with the engine in the car, I have a hard time believing that both bearing surfaces on each rod were plastiguaged to verify clearances.

Don't get me wrong, ARP bolts are a good idea any time your tearing into the motor, but I don't believe the rod bolts are the weakest link and replacing them without verifying clearances which you can't properly do with the engine in the car is risk I would not take.

OP what kind of RPM's do you plan on seeing with your build and what modifications do you have?

[racesloth]

My 2010 has 23k on the clock:

Vengeance VRII cam with the supporting lifter, pushrod, spring, HV oil pump, C5R chain, trunion bearing, and ARP head bolts. Makes 477rwhp and 445rwtq.

ARH LTH, Corsa Cat back, CAI intake

It has a full BMR suspension package lowered 1" with Koni streets dampers

ZL1 front brake upgrade

Michlen PSS 255 frt and 315 rear on wider than stock F14’s

I am adding the oil pan baffle and aero bits (splitter, ZL1 undertray, 2014 extrator and Z28 style wing) for more track days this year.


I have bumped it off of the rev limiter a few times so far with EFI Live tune rev limit at 6500rpm. I will also be adding in cradle bushings and 3:91 gears. So, I would think that would let me rev it higher than 6800rpms.

Thoughts?

[PFL]

Originally Posted by racesloth

The stock rod bolts have a ferule in them that keeps them from falling out - but the bolts can easily be removed. Plenty of youtube videos....

could not find anything related to removal of bolts rods. please could provide the link, or anywhere that has a diy ???

[K1SSRSS]

Originally Posted by racesloth

My 2010 has 23k on the clock:

Vengeance VRII cam with the supporting lifter, pushrod, spring, HV oil pump, C5R chain, trunion bearing, and ARP head bolts. Makes 477rwhp and 445rwtq.

ARH LTH, Corsa Cat back, CAI intake

It has a full BMR suspension package lowered 1" with Koni streets dampers

ZL1 front brake upgrade

Michlen PSS 255 frt and 315 rear on wider than stock F14’s

I am adding the oil pan baffle and aero bits (splitter, ZL1 undertray, 2014 extrator and Z28 style wing) for more track days this year.


I have bumped it off of the rev limiter a few times so far with EFI Live tune rev limit at 6500rpm. I will also be adding in cradle bushings and 3:91 gears. So, I would think that would let me rev it higher than 6800rpms.

Thoughts?

Hmm if your going to be bouncing it off the rev limiter at 6800 I may consider pulling the engine completely out and putting the ARP bolts in since in reality it could actually be touching 7000 rpm or so before it shuts down. But on the other hand I think if it were me I would leave it at about 6500 until you plan to do more work to the engine especially if its on a road course.

[racesloth]

Here you go: