08-03-2009, 11:39 PM | #15 |
I am the internets.
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For guys who don't change their own oil
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08-04-2009, 12:13 AM | #16 |
Zot!
Drives: Toyota 4Runner Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 1,317
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28657
It was on page 2 of this section. This section is small. I saw it when the thread was new, and remembered what you were talking about.
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08-04-2009, 12:18 AM | #17 |
Banned
Drives: A Black Car Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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08-04-2009, 12:31 AM | #18 | |
Zot!
Drives: Toyota 4Runner Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 1,317
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Quote:
I'm scared of them too.
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08-04-2009, 08:11 AM | #19 | |
Bowtie, FOR LIFE!!!!
Drives: Camaro 2SS/RS SW/IOM Interrior Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Where ever Uncle Sam Places me...
Posts: 512
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Quote:
: huh?
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2SS/RS Summit White M6
Current: 2011 SW 2SS/RS M6 Fast!!! 70 Chevelle SS (sold) Still kicking myself! 2010 CGM SS/RS A6 (RIP) one pissed SS right there!!!! |
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08-04-2009, 11:54 AM | #20 |
Drives: 2010 1LT Black on Black Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 71
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I changed my oil at 700, and it was dirty as sin. There were no shavings, but it was as black as night.
I'm running synthetic now, and am going to change the filer again at 1200, and then do another oil change at 1500. After that, new filter every 2500, and oil change every 5000. |
08-04-2009, 12:37 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2003 Eclipse & 2010 2LT SW Camaro Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Middle Village, Queens NY
Posts: 155
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First of all anyone who goes to Jiffy Lube is not too brite. They drain it for 2 seconds and then refill it. First of all you have to drive to Jiffy lube and your engine is hot and the oil (most of it) is in the engine block. Dont you think its better to drain the oil when the car is cold and the pan is full ? And let it drain for 1 hour, whats your hurry.
Jiffy lube is cheap price/cheap oil/cheap service.......sorry not on my camaro. |
08-04-2009, 12:47 PM | #22 | |
Drives: 2010 1LT Black on Black Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 71
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Quote:
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08-04-2009, 04:36 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 2006 Chevy Avalanche Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Gulf Coast of Texas
Posts: 386
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Quote:
Under normal driving conditions it will be ok. If not normal you would need to do it more often. Use synthetic if it came with it. Use conventional if you want to change it on more frequent basis. Once again this would be normal driving conditions. No long cold, long hot, rabbit starts, screeching stops, pedal to the medal, towing etc. And some people don't realize that if you frequently use the gas additives you MUST change you oil more frequently. |
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08-04-2009, 06:43 PM | #24 | |
Drives: 2010 1LT Black on Black Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 71
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Quote:
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08-04-2009, 07:00 PM | #25 |
Danny
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In case you didn't see my thread, here's a pic of my oil drain pan at my 500 mile oil change.
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2SS/RS CGM with black rally stripes
DON_RAFA describing my Noweeds cutouts - "Very Strong. When I couldn't see you I still heard you. Sounds like your car is pissed at the world." |
08-05-2009, 11:09 AM | #26 | |
Institutionally Insane
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Quote:
I let my cars warm up to temp after a long drive..jack her up on the opposing side so the drain plug is lowest. Allow to cool for 20 mins. Drain for at least 30minutes or until no oil comes out of pan. Getting as much of the old oil and metal out is my piece of mind when buying Mobil1 filters and using Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil1 synthetic. I changed my oil at 800 or so miles and had a LOT of metal shavings in the filter and on the surface of the oil. I replaced with Pennzoil Platinum 5-30 and a Mobil1 filter. I have 3300 on her now and maybe plan on an oil change in the next month, maybe just before she goes up for winter. I trust Mobil1 filters... I also plan on sending an oil sample for analysis to Blackstone Labs to see what is what with wear and breakdown.
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It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?
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08-05-2009, 12:43 PM | #27 |
RACKM
Drives: 2001 Mazda MilleniaS Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Posts: 160
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Thse filings ARE normal like it was said earlier. If you want to really have your eyes opened just look at the pan when you change the oil in an automatic transmission. As for oil changes GM recommended for the C5 Coevette to wait 10,000 miles before switching to synthetic oil. The first C5's and Porches' came from the factory with synthetic and were developing blow-by because the syntetic was so slippery the piston rings were not getting a chance to seat in the cylinder. A good mechanic will tell you the same thing. 10,000 miles before switching will allow the rings and cylinder walls to create their own finger print, much like bullet does in a gun. The oil ring is the one that needs it the most.
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08-05-2009, 08:06 PM | #28 |
or go to a higher weight oil for the break in
- SK
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