Headers putting out too much heat?. Header recommendations?.

[joshnmn]

If you’re having to run the heater then you definitely have a cooling system problem- its undersized. You should fix/upgrade your thermostat and maybe look into a better radiator.

[Badbubba]

Originally Posted by Trawz

Ceramic coating the headers will help more then you think.

I bought a set of speed engineering LT headers last year and got them ceramic coated black by a local coatings shop. I spoke with the owner when I dropped them off and mentioned I did road course racing. He said: "Most people want our flashier coatings, but the serious people who want to keep heat out get them black". I can touch one of the primary tubes immediately after driving all day without burning myself.

I have not had any issues with excessive heat, except on 95+ degree track days.

I don't understand or agree with black to be the best to keep the heat out of the engine bay. The insulation factor for conduction and convection would be the same for the same given material. But black will radiate more energy than a silver/polished surface. The amount of energy given off by radiation depends on it's emissivity. And black tends to have a high emissivity. If black, polished/gloss would be better. Albeit, radiation is the least effective form of the 3 types of heat transfer. Conduction first, convection second and then radiation. Perhaps the black coating is a different material. Most local shops can't do a polished silver, only matte colors. But any color ceramic coating is better than none.

[Trawz]

Originally Posted by Badbubba

I don't understand or agree with black to be the best to keep the heat out of the engine bay. The insulation factor for conduction and convection would be the same for the same given material. But black will radiate more energy than a silver/polished surface. The amount of energy given off by radiation depends on it's emissivity. And black tends to have a high emissivity. If black, polished/gloss would be better. Albeit, radiation is the least effective form of the 3 types of heat transfer. Conduction first, convection second and then radiation. Perhaps the black coating is a different material. Most local shops can't do a polished silver, only matte colors. But any color ceramic coating is better than none.

I am defiantly not the one to explain why or if black ceramic is better, because I do not fully understand it.
I just told the coatings shop I wanted to keep heat down and he said what I quoted in my last post. Didn't question it. Hahaha!

The shop I went to offered grey, sliver, diamond (a sort of crinkle silver), and black ceramic coatings.

[Texamaro]

Originally Posted by 102SS

You can do several things to improve your drivability.

1)Install a larger more efficient rad.

2)Install a cooler thermostat

3) Wrap your headers or send them out for ceramic coating.

4) Program the fans to come on sooner

5) Either wrap your starter or configure a heat shield to protect it from the headers.

Thanks! I'm thinking starting thermostat and then fairly shortly here radiator.

All seem like good things to do shortly here but starting with the DIY options.
I did get a new starter and wrapped it. that issue seems fine now.

[Texamaro]

Originally Posted by Badbubba

You can ceramic coat your headers. Just be certain you have a decent set before spending the money to coat. Jet-hot coats inside and out. And the parts do not have to be new. Iirc, it was around $400, with shipping, to get my ARH longtubes coated, but have had no issues. I did have to grind some off for the slip joint at the collector to fit. Any idea of what the afr is at idle? I can see the potential for the plug wires and starter to be affected by the headers, but not the engine temps that much. I would check the cooling system. Since you had a cam change, it would have been drained. It's a real pain to get all the air purged. And temps will rise the most at idle. I shut it down a few times, really had me concerned with the temps.

Thanks for the explanation.
Sorry I don't know about afr at idle. might be able to find it in my HPtuners options next time I plug it in but I had someone do the tune for me.
Mine are not high end. If I'm being honest I believe they were well rated but just unbranded stainless long tubes off ebay. It would be a bit of an undertaking to ceramic coat them as I had to play/modify a good bit on the slip fittings to get them to work with my existing exhaust, but I am keeping that option up my sleeve for sure.

[Texamaro]

Originally Posted by C@mero

There’s guys out here that run speed engineering, and that’s as cheap as they come. I couldn’t imagine another set of eBay headers radiating that much heat.

As far as fixes with starting. Check grounds, wrap your starter, check your tune. If it doesn’t fix that then get a high torque starter. Start with the free fixes or cheap options first.

Like everyone said, better t stat, better radiator, and have your fans turn on sooner. Again, start with the cheaper fixes.

Yup I went ahead and replaced starter and wrapped it so should be golden there!.
As to fix I'll be starting with thermostat but most likely will do radiator and fan settings shortly there after.
Thanks!

[Texamaro]

Originally Posted by cmack

I live in Texas and have had my share of heat trouble. I have LG motorsports radiator:
https://www.lgmotorsports.com/lg-mot...-radiator.html


I also have manual radiator fan switch:
https://www.pcmofnc.com/product/2010...tch-harness-3/


The fan switch is similar to (102SS mentioned ) having a tuner "Program the fans to come on sooner". I personally did not want to rely on going back/forth with tuner on fan configuration. I can also kick fans to high before it reaches certain temps. I was stuck at train stop earlier in week, I kicked fans on as soon as I saw traffic stopped. I track my car and I kick fans on high for whole session. The fan switch is not super easy diy project as you have to add a pin to ecu but it is not rocket surgery.



Just asking...... Do you know to turn heater on if you are having trouble cooling? Nothing sucks more than sitting in Texas traffic over 100 degrees outside and having to run heater. Under normal circumstances you should never have to do so but if the car has cooling trouble, the heater will keep car from overheating.

Look like excellent options above. thanks!
Very tempted to do radiator asap as well as thermostat. As to the fan switching on earlier I think my tuner is capable so I'm at very least going to ask before going manual with it.
And yes I know to cut AC and kick on heater. it sucks but better then major overheating issues.

[Texamaro]

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions that helps me out a lot! I read through everything... twice.
I think my course of action will look like:

1. Replace/upgrade thermostat. Are yall special ordering your t-stats? Or where are you guys getting cooler ones from?.
2. Talking to my tuner about kicking fans on earlier. Suggestions for what temperatures to kick on hi/lo?

3. Depending on where the above two fixes leave me within the next couple weeks upgrading my radiator. cmack recommended the LG Motorsport option. Any other suggestions and should I upgrade fans with radiator in your guys opinions?.
4. down the road I'd love to buy quality headers and ceramic coat them so that may follow as money and time allows.



I did already replace starter and heat wrapped it and it seems to be doing good thus far.

[LCPLPunk]

Ok, hold on!


I remember reading numerous posts that say our engine bays don't vent very well and at high speed the hood likes to lift as the air doesn't have anywhere to go.



Here is what I would suggest -


Hood vent - 1LE style or aftermarket, whatever you prefer
Air intake scoop - basically brings air in from outside directly to the filter


Obviously you already have air coming in from the grille area, but the vent will let hot air out and the scoop will give you a lower point of bringing more air in. Look at the third pic down - https://www.autoweek.com/news/a19452...k-aero-tricks/

[Rock-It Man]

Lose the headers. They are nothing but trouble. Overheat the engine compartment and melt wires.

[FasNuf]

For those thinking of removing the seal on the cowl and hood, keep in mind that engine bay vapors can get into your fresh air intake and into the operators compartment.

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

For those thinking of removing the seal on the cowl and hood, keep in mind that engine bay vapors can get into your fresh air intake and into the operators compartment.

+1
If your want to get heat out of the engine bay, think about doing ta hood scoop. Lots of threads on installs here on the forum.

[FasNuf]

I used DEI wrap. Works great to prevent burns and keeps the engine bay temps down. It is a bigger PITA than coating but I'm not sure how they compare in temp performance.
Here's one of my shameless self promoting videos
https://youtu.be/Bu620erOJTI
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[spyderbuddy]

I dealt with engine temps
(1) TL1 Hood Scoop
(2) Ceramic Coated Headers