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Old 09-20-2017, 06:08 PM   #15
Clarkstar

 
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https://youtu.be/nGw_hpIOJx4

My tsp 235/239
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:48 PM   #16
christianchevell
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BR 30 is Driven racing oil I use it for break in and ls30 for driving. the 235/239 I had in my 13 netted good hp and torque pulled like a freight train, lopey idle 950 idle with 112 LSA it was .639/.623 over time they lowered the intake lift on that grind to make it more friendly as the lift required .675 springs and the larger the springs the more brittle sometimes or the more prone to breakage should I say ;
as many running racing engines are really in cams and head clearance ranges outside what is the norm for a ls3 build for the average joe with .650, .700. .750 and up lifts just insane compressions or boost LOL. And most likely yes a tunnel ram and what ever ...dominator, holley, FI , etc... heres the guys I got my engine block from advertising sag performance parts on ebay anyway for some comparisions https://www.ebay.com/sch/sag_perform...1&_ipg=&_from= I love my new 428 and have 10k on it so far.

Heres my old dyno of the 235/239 with CAI and SP headers and HFC

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Last edited by christianchevell; 09-20-2017 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 09-21-2017, 02:02 PM   #17
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Whys your curve so choppy? I also noticed your AF is over 12 are you hearing detonation? Just curious
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Old 09-21-2017, 02:11 PM   #18
Morgan.13
 
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Does anyone know the piston to valve clearance for the 235/239? Seems like it would be getting close? Would the stage 3 tsp 231/246 or 231/236 maybe be a better option?


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Old 09-21-2017, 05:48 PM   #19
christianchevell
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The PTV is fine and the curve is choppy because its not corrected with stupid software so its shows any problem areas something someone wants to see who knows their stuff.....data smoothing can be a little of a bummer on a dyno and my tuner will never do it, of course he is the best around here. And data smoothing does rob a couple HP on the print out. My car has no detonation LOL I have absolutely no timing being pulled as its adjusted in the tune. The AFR is running rich not lean BTW being its on a dyno running like a raped ape there... Here my new engine and its " mild Cam" note the scribbles my average torque comes on way lower and more and bests my HP for now until I build the engine more with $ and someday do a Stroker cam and ls7 small bore heads with a MSD airforce intake hopefully.



Lousy pic, but note the average HP and torque are higher even with a much more mild cam and the torque starts way lower and makes a great plateau where I drive , its a stage three cam motion with only .613 speced higher by me and .578 lifts, less duration and higher 114+4 LSA. I daily drive and the feel..... well as always its true there is no substitute for cubic inches......and on the graph it just shows where he started recording and the AFR just started logging not that it was too the moon.... I will give up some HP for torque anyday... I am a old motorhead and used to heavy Chevys and wanted a good base while I threw some money at it for now. The peak numbers of the 235/239 are nice and bested the " night fury", theres others that come much closer in PTV clearance in the cams out there if your looking but theirs as I said has been even modified over time with less lift on the intake lobe. BTW I sold that cam and it was just a ordinary Comp Cam not 8620 but its was used broken in with BR30 driven racing oil and ran with ls30 from them for the 10k Plus I ran that engine. The cam..looked perfect when pulled.
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Last edited by christianchevell; 09-22-2017 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 09-21-2017, 06:43 PM   #20
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A lot of people that don't understand the issues of a road race cam recommending some very bad choices that could cost you a motor. You need a custom cam with the right lobes and minimal height designed for road racing if that is your intended use. I used Brian Tooley and don't regret it for a second. A max hp dyno number is largely irrelevant for your intended use, you need power under the curve and not a dyno queen.
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Old 09-21-2017, 08:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
A lot of people that don't understand the issues of a road race cam recommending some very bad choices that could cost you a motor. You need a custom cam with the right lobes and minimal height designed for road racing if that is your intended use. I used Brian Tooley and don't regret it for a second. A max hp dyno number is largely irrelevant for your intended use, you need power under the curve and not a dyno queen.
Couldn't have said it any better. People focus way too much on the dyno numbers. I went with the Stage 3 and absolutely love it. Didn't lose any low end torque and made more power than I thought it would. I'll eventually go boosted and swap for a cam to compliment that. But for now, NA cam is fun!
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:15 PM   #22
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Go custom for your goal or something withsoft lobes, low lift and on the small/medium side for low end power. I dont see the point of going big here. Its pointless to aim for a number when autox !! You want under the curve power amd reliability, not a dyno number hero
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:13 AM   #23
christianchevell
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You should pick a cam according to your needs of course, but most want the most power pull like a freight train top end power do it once cam, power where you want it and need it for what ever purpose can be pretty different and talking to someone who grinds the cams like Kip at commotion or others and studying the different cams specs and the peoples reviews can help steer you to what you want hopefully. If your looking for low maint.... and not all out you may want something like the GM ASA cam with lower lifts and therefore less radical springs that may not need to be changed out so often and still have a lot more power and lope... Numbers are nice but don't get you home like chrome, but they can help get you down the track, but as I only too well know....racing and power especially the more power the higher you want to go costs incrementally more money...as there is all the supporting mods also. Just things to think about. And with the cam don't forget things like a high volume pump, ls2/7 dogbone, c5r chain, maybe a trunnion upgrade...things many do at the same time costs more.... Heck I do a break in with BR30 driven racing oil even..... then theres the higher mile using new lifters, new head gaskets, new lifter baskets and new TTY bolts all things many do not do for a low cost install.............
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Old 09-23-2017, 10:36 AM   #24
litle88
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we have seen this cam hit 501hp on a loaded mustang dyno at the shop many times, especially on 1Le's.
Best company and cams that have been proven in all types of track not just dynos.

https://www.briantooleyracing.com/n-...-camshaft.html
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