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Old 10-21-2019, 09:27 AM   #1
shmmee
 
Drives: 2012 camaro LS convertable
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Utah
Posts: 8
Unhappy New gen5 Camaro owner Upgraded speakers, now convertible top wont move.

Hi all, new 2012 Camaro owner here (bought a 2012 convertible about 4 weeks ago... love it!). Also, I am a moron. I cant seem to fix anything without breaking two more things...

I just finished the first stage of my speaker upgrade. Mine has the basic non Boston Acoustics stereo package with the 80w head unit. I pulled the head unit and rerouted all the panel speakers through the high level input of a 4 Chanel amp and temporarily pulled the sub. (cut and routed the sub's white remote power on wire to the new amp). I'll be upgrading the sub (installing a free-air rated sub into the stock box) in phase 2.

Everything radio related seems to work OK, but i'm getting a "top not secure" message and the button no longer moves the top. The message persists, even if the top is secured in the up or down position (had to move it manually). The cargo netting is secure and the trunk no longer opens via the button or key chain fob. The head unit is stock and functional - just spent a few days unplugged. The top worked perfectly until I installed the amp yesterday. I don't think I messed with any of the convertible top wiring, but I was definitely playing in the same neighborhood.

Please save me from the spousal stink eye I've earned by breaking the beautiful car I've owned for less than a month.

So. Questions...
Any idea why my top wont move? (cargo net is secured in place.)
Could the radio (which seems to be working just fine) or old amp (which I removed with the sub-woofer) be somehow related the functionality of the top?
Would adding an amp, replacing the component speakers in the door/rear 3.5" speakers in the side and pulling the sub somehow cripple the top?


(the following issue is fixed but i'm including it on the off chance that it helps someone else someday): I also killed 3/4 of my drivers side window buttons. Only the driver side window responded and the back-lighting went out. I eventually learned that if fuse 31 SRVM (side rear view mirror) goes out, it knocks out most (but not all) of your power windows too. Replacing fuse 31 got the back-light to the switches lit up and the windows moving again. Weird.


For clarity: I'm still looking for suggestions and advice on getting the top working. The window switches are working, the top is not.

Last edited by shmmee; 10-21-2019 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:03 AM   #2
GodWentPunk
 
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I'm glad you got it figured out.. When doing electrical work, it's always a good practice to disconnect the battery in the case that you cross wires momentarily. Now, hooking them up wrong and reconnecting the battery isn't gonna help but, disconnecting is a good preventative measure.


Good luck with the vert and be sure to post some pix.


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Old 10-21-2019, 10:13 AM   #3
shmmee
 
Drives: 2012 camaro LS convertable
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The window switches are working, but the top not moving... that's a new one and I'm still looking for suggestions and advice on that issue. I'll definitely be more dutiful about disconnecting the battery when i work on electrical. You'd think i would of learned my lesson after goobering up the window switches.
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Old 10-21-2019, 11:23 AM   #4
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I've heard of issues with the bar in back not making a good connection and therefore, the system thinks the bar is not in place. I think someone found a way to override that check so that regardless of where the bar is located, the top will move. Also, if the trunk is open, the top will not move so if you had issues with your trunk, maybe something is telling the computer the truck is still open??



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Old 10-21-2019, 12:20 PM   #5
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Drives: 2012 camaro LS convertable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodWentPunk View Post
I've heard of issues with the bar in back not making a good connection and therefore, the system thinks the bar is not in place. I think someone found a way to override that check so that regardless of where the bar is located, the top will move. Also, if the trunk is open, the top will not move so if you had issues with your trunk, maybe something is telling the computer the truck is still open??



joe...
That's a good thought. I'll jumper the wires on that switch and see if the message goes away. Or better yet, i'll put a meter on the wires to see if it's even getting voltage. I should probably check the fuse in the trunk first as well. That's some good that came from my initial problem. At least I know where all 3 fuse boxes are hiding.
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Old 10-21-2019, 02:43 PM   #6
shmmee
 
Drives: 2012 camaro LS convertable
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I found the 30A roof top fuse had blown. I replaced it but the rooftop is still dead - the fuse did not insta-blow again after I replaced it so I don't think I have an active short in the system. The 10A rooftop fuse was still good. I still have yet to check the cargo net sensor. I obviously shorted it enough to blow the fuse. I'm hoping The fuse blew before something it was protecting could of fried. The trunk popping buttons are also unresponsive.

I've also noticed that the car dings (the musical kind of ding that reminds you to do something important - like locking down the top) for the first several minutes of driving (because it thinks the top is not secured. It also tells me to re-calibrate (roll down then roll up) my drivers side window each time I turn the car on.
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Old 10-21-2019, 03:34 PM   #7
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Sounds like you have some electrical issues going on for sure.


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Old 10-22-2019, 10:12 AM   #8
shmmee
 
Drives: 2012 camaro LS convertable
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Problem found and fixed!

I was able to chase the gremlins out of the electrical last night for the convertible top! The red w/black stripe (30A) wire got cut on a sharp edge I missed and the arc flash severed 3 neighboring wires and blew the 30A fuse in the trunk. (The snipped brown and yellow wires were to a rear speaker. Being so close to the amp I chose to run the amplified signal back to the speaker through some thicker wire instead of using the stock wiring. The brown and yellow wire are no longer hooked up/abandoned in place)
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If you ever need to splice electrical wires, these heat shrink solder tubes are absolutely amazing!!! I've used them splice in all 12 connections from my head unit harness to the amp and back into the front door speaker wires.
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Just strip both ends and slip them into the tube - intermingling the wires in the middle (inside the ring of solder)
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and heat until the solder becomes fluid while holding the wires still and together.
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You should use a heat gun, but in a tight space you can use a bbq lighter. I like to give my secured ends a wrap in electrical tape once i'm done - just to be sure.

I'm going for a stealth install - hiding (and securing) the amps in the void between the trunk and the rear seat. After I tune the amp I'll be hanging it vertically inside the cavity (about where the "X" is stamped in to the sheet metal) and the sub-woofer amp will be occupying the cavity the red amp (a 4 channel amp to power the door and rear speakers) is in now. I did have to cut and expand the slot the amp resides in but I was able to avoid modifying the internal supporting beams.
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Because trunk space is at such a premium (and because having your easy to access - poorly secured amps & subs stolen sucks) the sub-woofer will be installed into the stock slot behind the back seat.

I'm hoping to seal up the stock sub-woofer location into a semi-proper sealed enclosure (probably using a lot of great stuff expanding foam and MDF (If I can get it into the void) but the sub I picked (infinity Kappa 1000w) is free-air rated to 175w RMS if modifying the enclosure gets the best of me, or if it's not fully sealed. Successfully sealing the top (just beneath the convertible top control box) and sides (at the vertical support braces) of the box should give me a .55 cubic foot sealed enclosure and that sub likes a .6 cubic foot sealed enclosure. (pretty dang close)
I'm crossing my fingers that the sub-woofer will fit depth wise. That void is pretty shallow.

I'm thinking about cutting in a dial access slot on the very top lip (under the plastic trim caps so I can adjust the door speaker amp once it's mounted into the top of the cavity without removing everything... I guess that'd also give me a slot I can drop the plywood through to seal the sub-woofer box if I did have a slot on top... two 8" long x 1" wide slot wouldn't weaken the back too much, right?

Last edited by shmmee; 10-22-2019 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 10-22-2019, 12:37 PM   #9
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Glad you found it. When something works, and stops after messing with something else, usually that's the problem... at least, that works in the IT world.


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