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Old 06-09-2026, 08:13 AM   #43
hesster

 
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Drives: '10 T/A Conv, '10 2SS, '77 SE T/A
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 959
Worked on the Engine Cover and Upper Front Grills getting them ready for the Blue Paint. Taped up all of the Black on the Engine Cover, that will get sanded lightly and more Clearcoat after painting the Blue. I don't think I need to Primer it, just a few coats of Adhesion Promotor. And taped off the Hex Grid on the Grills, that got Clear Coated and will stay Black.

My goal is to get all of the Parts that will be Painted Lucerne Blue ready to spray (Scoop, Spoiler, Engine Cover, Fender and Rear Quarter Extractors).

Then shot the Shaker Scoop and Spoiler with DTA Primer.
Uggghhhh....
Not real thrilled with the DTA Primer (Direct to Anything) that I purchased versus the DTM (Direct to Metal) which I used on the Bandit. I figured I try it out since it was recommended by Tamco, but it sprays real wet like Paint and runs easily, and does not build up well. It also takes 12 hours to dry, which is not a good thing for contamination. It's dry's like shiny hard plastic - the ultimate for sealing any substrate.

So the DTA is more of a high end Sealer, and does little to cover imperfections like pin holes and sand scratch's. Not exactly what is called for on these parts, since the Spoiler is basically reconstructed, and the top of the Shaker Scoop was rough like raw fiberglass. It would probably be fine for the Steel Fenders, but not so much for all the other Kit Parts.

So lesson learned, it will sit on a shelve, and I ordered a gallon of DTM which builds a better film and sands easily. I will sand back the Shaker Scoop and Spoiler, address any imperfections, and shoot them both with the DTM Primer when I get it.

While waiting on that, still have plenty to do, like deconstruct/remove the Front End stuff - the Hood, Fenders, and Fascia, and prep those for Primer.
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