04-15-2018, 10:19 AM | #1 |
First issue with car
I popped the hood the other day, just to check things out, and noticed a hot engine/coolant-like odor. Not incredibly strong, but not what I would think to be normal either. When I checked the coolant level, it was below the min. line, even while warmed up. Not good ... at all. I let the engine cool down over night, and rechecked the coolant level. It was barely touching the stick, well below the minimum line. I backed the car out of the garage, and noticed a quarter-sized puddle. Looked like coolant to me, and was similarly sticky and pink/orange colored. But only a quarter sized puddle? If that low according to the dip-stick, then I would expect something a little more dramatic on the garage floor.
So, I suppose I have two questions really. How much added coolant should it take while the engine is cold, to get it back to the proper level? Also, the engine has never been so hot that the temperature gauge has gone up past the normal operating range. How could the temperature gauge still read normal with so little coolant in the system? Anyway, definitely a mystery that needs solved and any input would be appreciated. The weather has finally gotten warmer around here, and I was planning on installing my long tube headers this weekend. But looks like I have other issues to address first. Aggravating. |
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04-15-2018, 10:43 AM | #2 |
376 cubic inches of fun
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Are you new to this car?
The 2010s had a problem with a cross threaded fitting in the coolant line from the engine block to the oil cooler. (The oil is liquid cooled on our cars.) I was losing coolant and most of the time there wasn't enough to drip on the ground...just the smell. I noticed the level drop after about a year. Later I was changing the oil and filter and noticed coolant seeping out at the fitting. Took it to the dealer after reading here on the forum that there was a TSB for the problem. The fitting is on the driver's side of the block, on a surface that faces aft. You have to get the car up on ramps and crawl way back there to see it. As for the coolant level, the dipstick only measures the coolant in the surge tank, not the whole system. Since you have been losing coolant for a while, you should visually check the coolant level in the radiator. When the engine is cold, take off the radiator cap and look. You might still be OK, but if the radiator is low, you need to add coolant directly to the radiator. Add coolant to the radiator. Run the engine with the cap off until coolant is circulating. Top off radiator as required. Cap radiator. Adjust coolant level in surge tank using dipstick. Last edited by Rock-It Man; 04-15-2018 at 12:41 PM. |
04-15-2018, 11:36 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Smithsburg, Md.
Posts: 2,446
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just do the oil cooler"heater" delete...that's my game plan. peace
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2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - 150K! - All work by me...
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04-15-2018, 11:52 AM | #4 | |
Drives: 2014 Ashen Gray Convertible Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Havelock, NC
Posts: 1,329
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Thank you for the great information! Tidbits like this that can keep us on the road.
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04-21-2018, 09:01 PM | #5 | |
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Interesting info. I've had the car for a little over a year, so still relatively new to it I suppose. I did find the leak while putting on my headers. Maybe I'll post some pics when I'm able. Might help me out if someone can verify that it is indeed the notorious fitting that's been mentioned. As of right now, I suspect that it is. Driver's side of block. Liquid running down from fitting, and wetting the oil pan from what I can see. |
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04-21-2018, 09:38 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 1,371
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I have a 2011 and had this issue. Had it fixed in 2014 shortly after purchasing the car using its certified used car warranty.
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04-22-2018, 07:56 PM | #7 |
376 cubic inches of fun
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