My Maggie install.........

[PQ]

Originally Posted by 2SSRS

If any one has more info i have the service manuals.

Originally Posted by Russell James

None of the pins pushed back in the underdash ALDL connector you had the tuner plugged in to? Shine a light in there. Mine shows 4 pins on the top row and 4 on the bottom row. If any of the pins in that connector get pushed back and shorted against another pin, that can cause problems.

The MIL circuit wire is brown and white. I would look at all electrical connectors touched during the install and see if there is a brown w/white stripe wire. Since your ECM is able to turn the MIL light on, it's not an open in that circuit. I don't have the service manual in front of me, but it will show which connector pin out of the ECM that circuit is. The next steps will be to disconnect that ECM connector and then probe that circuit for shorts to power or ground. With that ECM connector disconnected, and the key on, the MIL lamp should not come on. If it does come on, that circuit is shorted to power somewhere. The MIL should only be able to come on with the ECM connectors connected.

I would only dig into these wiring checks with the service manual page for P0650 in front of you, and go step by step in the diagnostics for P0650.

Since it has P0650 and a driveability problem, I'd plug in the tuner and set it up to watch the data while it is idling. Make sure all the sensors are showing data, MAF, IAT, O2s... if you see a sensor with blank data, that could be a hint to a problem. Just P0650 by itself shouldn't cause a driveability problem, that is only the circuit to the MIL lamp. So that circuit must be shorted to something important, like a sensor. Or the ECM may have gone bad. The service manual will take you through the proper circuit checks, if the MIL circuit checks out, it will say - replace ECM.

Ok. I don't have a service manual but I will go through all the other steps.

I just looked at the plug in for the SCT and al 8 are still in place. 4 on top and 4 on bottom. One each all the way to the side on their own top and bottom. So no problem there. All pins are in the plug. I'm gonna look for the white brown/white wire now. I'm putting the car back to stock and I'll start, get codes and then go back to Magnastock and see the codes.

I gotta get started on my control arms on the Jeep tonight too. lol

[zebra]

good luck

[Warhead]

From LS2.com



DTC P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit




Circuit Description
A voltage is supplied directly to the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). The powertrain control module (PCM) controls the lamp by grounding the control circuit via an internal switch called a driver. The primary function of the driver is to supply the ground for the component being controlled. Each driver has a fault line which is monitored by the PCM. When the PCM is commanding a component ON, the voltage of the control circuit should be near 0 volts. When the PCM is commanding the control circuit to a component OFF, the voltage potential of the circuit should be near battery voltage. If the fault detection circuit senses a voltage other than what is expected, the fault line status will change causing the DTC to set.

Conditions for Running the DTC

• Engine speed is greater than 600 RPM.
• The ignition voltage is between 6.0 volts and 16.0 volts.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

• The PCM detects that the commanded state of the driver and the actual state of the control circuit do not match.
• The conditions are present for a minimum of 10 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

• The PCM will not command the MIL ON. The PCM stores DTC P0650 in memory when the diagnostic runs and fails.
• The PCM records the conditions present at the time the diagnostic fails to the Freeze Frame.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC

• A last test failed, or current DTC, clears when the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
• A history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other non-emission related diagnostic.
• Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTC.

Diagnostic Aids

• If the ignition feed circuit is suspected of being open, check if other bulbs on that circuit illuminate.
• Using Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data may aid in locating an intermittent condition. If the DTC cannot be duplicated, the information included in the Freeze Frame and/or Failure Records data can be useful in determining how many miles since the DTC set. The Fail Counter and Pass Counter can also be used to determine how many ignition cycles the diagnostic reported a pass and/or a fail. Operate vehicle within the same Freeze Frame conditions (RPM, load, vehicle speed, temperature etc.) that were noted. This will isolate when the DTC failed.

Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

1. Command both the ON and the OFF states. Repeat the commands as necessary.

1. If you do not find trouble in the control circuit or the connection at the PCM, the PCM may be faulty. However, this is an extremely unlikely failure.

Step

Action

Value(s)

Yes

No

1

Did you perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check?

--

Go to Step 2

Go to A Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check

2

Important
If the I/P is completely inoperative, refer to Instrument Cluster System Check in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console for further diagnosis.

1. Turn ON the ignition leaving the engine OFF.
2. Command the lamp ON and OFF using the Scan tool.

Does the lamp turn ON and OFF with each command?

--

Go to Diagnostic Aids

Go to Step 3

3

1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Disconnect the PCM connector C1 located on the opposite side of the manufacturer's logo. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming .
3. Turn ON the ignition.

Is the lamp OFF?

--

Go to Step 4

Go to Step 5

4

Probe the lamp control circuit in the PCM harness connector with a fused jumper wire connected to ground. Refer to Using Fused Jumper Wires in Wiring Systems. Is the lamp ON?

--

Go to Step 6

Go to Step 7

5

Repair the short to ground in the lamp control circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Is the repair complete?

--

Go to Step 9

--

6

1. Inspect for poor connections at the PCM. Refer to Intermittents and Poor Connections Diagnosis in Wiring Systems.
2. If you find a poor connection repair as necessary. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.

Did you find and correct the condition?

--

Go to Step 9

Go to Step 8

7

Inspect for the following conditions:

• Faulty indicator
• Open ignition feed to the indicator
• Control circuit open or shorted to B+
• If you find a condition, repair as necessary. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?

--

Go to Step 9

--

8

Important:
Program the replacement PCM. Refer to PCM Replacement/Programming .
Replace the PCM. Is the action complete?

--

Go to Step 9

--

9

1. Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Clear DTC option using the scan tool.
2. Idle the engine at the normal operating temperature.
3. Select the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) option and the Specific DTC option, then enter the DTC number using the scan tool.
4. Operate vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text, if applicable.

Does the scan tool indicate that this test passed?

--

Go to Step 10

Go to Step 2

10

Select the Capture Info option and the Review Info option using the scan tool. Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?

--

Go to the applicable DTC table

System OK

[PQ]

[PQ]

Ok. I keep thinking that the water pump tap on the ign. fuse is somehow the problem?

[SSOOCH]

PQ's head just imploded!

[MonnieRock]

2010 Camaro – MIL illuminated, DTC
P0300 and/or P1380 set, without
stored misfire data and driveability
issues

Use latest calibration in TIS2WEB Don’t replace ECM PI0284

Quote from techlink jan2011 in this thread

Hope it helps

Thread : http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125033

Monnie

[zebra]

i know this has nothing to do with your problems, but i just spent the last hour reading the TVS2300 install guide for my car

and the verdict is that i have neither the want-to or equipment to do this myself. definitely worth the $750 to let the shop here do mine!

[PQ]

Originally Posted by MonnieRock

2010 Camaro – MIL illuminated, DTC

P0300 and/or P1380 set, without
stored misfire data and driveability
issues

Use latest calibration in TIS2WEB Don’t replace ECM PI0284

Quote from techlink jan2011 in this thread

Hope it helps

Thread : http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125033

Monnie

Probably not relevant. But thanks. Interesting stuff.

[PQ]

Ok, one thing I also noticed was that my DIC, while I was putting the car back to stock, said "Reduced Engine Power"

Plus, I wasn't getting a cel on start like I should have, took the fuse with the tap out and redid it and the cel is on and fine now. May have been loose but not causing the problems. Just a code.

Done tinkering tonight. Doc will get me going. It's just hard not to screw with it. lol

Originally Posted by zebra

i know this has nothing to do with your problems, but i just spent the last hour reading the TVS2300 install guide for my car

and the verdict is that i have neither the want-to or equipment to do this myself. definitely worth the $750 to let the shop here do mine!

As long as you stay stock other that the SCer. lol

[PQ]

Searching around and saw these.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45759

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79945

[Russell James]

The fuse tap into an ignition circuit could possibly be an issue. I'd switch that to a key on 12V source that is unrelated to the engine.

[GTAHVIT]

Originally Posted by PQ

Searching around and saw these.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45759

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79945

I'm thinking this is headed in the right direction.

we need to show this to Doc so he can figure this in to the equation.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Russell James

The fuse tap into an ignition circuit could possibly be an issue. I'd switch that to a key on 12V source that is unrelated to the engine.

Ok. But the problem still exists after clearing the codes and unplugging the fuse tap all together.

Originally Posted by GTAHVIT

I'm thinking this is headed in the right direction.

we need to show this to Doc so he can figure this in to the equation.