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Old 11-06-2016, 01:43 AM   #29
BULLITT65
 
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Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Manual, Aqua Blue
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Ok made the switch on the fob. ( switched key blank and circuit board to another nice original) had to use a razor blade on the glue for like 30 minutes, before it would pop open
PROBLEM: now that I have put everything back together, all the buttons work, my key fits in the ignition fine will turn to start, but not start! Also security light on dash stays on
SO
-I still have 1 nice original key/fob, stick that in car , it starts security light goes off.
Within 5 seconds stick my new rebuilt one in, it will start the car, but the security light never goes off.
AND if I turn off the car and then wait 10 seconds, bam it will not start the car again!

Like I said all the buttons work on both fobs new and rebuilt, work fine.

I have tried the whole reprograming thing, and no luck. I just don't get what in the hell the car isn't recognizing since I just replaced the plastic shell???
I switched batteries no difference.

thoughts?
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Old 11-06-2016, 01:47 AM   #30
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Ok weird update
I thought maybe the old key had a slight imperfection so I switched keys, same result original worked replacement did not.

So I took just the key blanks out of both and removed the batteries out of both fobs. with the original fob, both key blanks work worth the fob just sitting on the key blank no roll pin. Turns off the security every time

I try the replacement fob on both, and same issue still won't turn iff the security code.

I try the replacement again this time I hold the original fob right underneath, (still no batteries in either) = security goes off!!!!

I tried it a bunch more times, as long as the original is right underneath the replacement it works.

So there must be some proximity with the original fob. and when I moved the circuit board to the replacement fob something must be slightly off?

SO again I put the batteries in both fobs, both lock/unlock the doors, set the alarm, and unlock the trunk. It's just something in the column that must not like the replacement fob.
The replacement fob body is from another 2010 Chevrolet model. Looks identical . What could be the issue here?
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:23 PM   #31
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Ok, i know that nobody is following this thread, but I think i figured it out. The transponder chip is different than the circuit board inside the fob. So I have the circuit board and the key blank which work, but the transponder chip needs to be set to the replacement fob.
trying this procedure:
https://howtune.com/articles/257-pro...evrolet-camaro
stay tuned...
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:50 PM   #32
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Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT
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Sorry for the necro but I recently ordered a replacement fob from gmpartsdirect and it seems the fobs are now ultrasonically welded, i tried taking it apart to no avail, I ended up using a dremel to get it apart. Aside from the surface seams there were no visible seams below the surface
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:19 PM   #33
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So is there any way to get the original switchblade key back in the fob? Mine is separate and I'd rather have the old style.
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Old 12-30-2016, 02:42 PM   #34
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Thanks a bunch. I know I will need this soon.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:09 AM   #35
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I have bought 3 FOBs off ebay(like 15$ ea shipped) and they have blank keys that need to be cut so I swapped blades to new fobs and the programming worked as it should. the Worst part was dealing with the damn drift pins theyre so dang small!!! once remote is programmed its programmed to that vehicle and vin for good
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Old 05-27-2022, 12:52 AM   #36
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So going for a thread necro here but its relevant, my fob shells were getting so nasty that I picked up a couple of the ebay ones the other day, figured i'd start with my spare key since the pin that holds the key was already missing and found out its an absolute pain to open the shell, and accidently cut the PCB ruining it. Anybody know where I can get a new just PCB I guess so that I can program one to my car so I still have a spare?

ALso how the heck do you get that little pin out of the new shell so I can put my switchblade key into it?
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Old 08-07-2022, 03:42 PM   #37
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I did the shell swap today with two Amazon shells that I got for $10 each. My OEM buttons had turned to a gooey mess. The trunk button on the fob I use had worn a hole through it. I keep my spare fob in my gun safe, never even used it, and it had goo-ified just from sitting. I used it long enough to get the spares in.

My keys are post-recall so no switchblades in the originals. I'm not sure if I should get the new ones cut or not, I still need a house key so not sure what I'm saving by having the key in the fob vs dangly key.
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Old 08-18-2022, 05:41 AM   #38
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I replaced mine just about a year ago. I bought 2 generic ebay ones without the bowtie for $12 shipped. I popped them open and just replaced the chip from the original to the new one. I also kept the blank key in place just because I didnt like the empty hole the original had when they did the key recall. I took the spring out and dropped a dab or epoxy into the little hole so the key blank is permanently locked into place and the button is inactive.



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Old 08-18-2022, 05:46 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BehindBlueI's View Post
I did the shell swap today with two Amazon shells that I got for $10 each. My OEM buttons had turned to a gooey mess. The trunk button on the fob I use had worn a hole through it. I keep my spare fob in my gun safe, never even used it, and it had goo-ified just from sitting. I used it long enough to get the spares in.

My keys are post-recall so no switchblades in the originals. I'm not sure if I should get the new ones cut or not, I still need a house key so not sure what I'm saving by having the key in the fob vs dangly key.
Funny. My spare just hung on a peg in the shop and was never used as well. Everything was great one day, the next, my fob turned to a hot gooey mess. About a week later I checked the never used spare and it was the same mess. Somehow, 10 years after production, they self destructed at the same time.
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