About to pull the trigger on an SS4

[Rhino79]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

I don’t think I have any pumps close enough to me to warrant me doing it just yet.

Yea I meet Ryan James and Ronnie talked too a couple guys in the shop. James had to get some paperwork and was like walk around man check the shop out. Most people act like there shops are area51 lol they were so open

It was nice to meet you! Your car is strong to start with, very excited to see the final numbers with the mods!

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Rhino79

It was nice to meet you! Your car is strong to start with, very excited to see the final numbers with the mods!

400rwhp on Ryan's dyno with no headers is bad-ass. A '13 is an electric power steering car right? That's usually worth somthing like 7-10whp. If that's still a hydro-steer car that's even more impressive!

I made 402rwhp on the same (type, not location) dyno with intake/headers/PTB and tune, and ended up with 473rwhp after the SS3 cam, rod-mod intake, and 25% UDP. For reference, that 473rwhp on a stingy DYNO-mite put down 497rwhp on a dynojet a few weeks later. Can't wait to see what you pick up.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Rhino79

It was nice to meet you! Your car is strong to start with, very excited to see the final numbers with the mods!

It was nice meeting you guys too. I can’t believe it started that high makes me more excited for the cam. Illl be back in a couple of weeks and we will find out what she can do.

Originally Posted by acammer

400rwhp on Ryan's dyno with no headers is bad-ass. A '13 is an electric power steering car right? That's usually worth somthing like 7-10whp. If that's still a hydro-steer car that's even more impressive!

I made 402rwhp on the same (type, not location) dyno with intake/headers/PTB and tune, and ended up with 473rwhp after the SS3 cam, rod-mod intake, and 25% UDP. For reference, that 473rwhp on a stingy DYNO-mite put down 497rwhp on a dynojet a few weeks later. Can't wait to see what you pick up.

Yea it’s a electric power steering LS3 I was grinning from ear to ear when I saw 403.7 I’m hoping to break in to the 500 club, seeing everyone with similar setups numbers I don’t think it’s to far fetched. What’s the next steps for you at 497?

[acammer]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

It was nice meeting you guys too. I can’t believe it started that high makes me more excited for the cam. Illl be back in a couple of weeks and we will find out what she can do.




Yea it’s a electric power steering LS3 I was grinning from ear to ear when I saw 403.7 I’m hoping to break in to the 500 club, seeing everyone with similar setups numbers I don’t think it’s to far fetched. What’s the next steps for you at 497?

Next step for me is getting the rest of the car to work with the power it has now. 2018 was an awful year for getting to the track - I did the cam at the May, broke my Richmond 4.10's exactly 1 week after getting the car out from that. Didn't have that back together till the end of June, and then waiting out the LPW diff support for 2 months - I didn't want to make any hits till that was in place. Did solid subframe bushings while waiting - one of the best mods I've ever done on this car. Finally got things back together at the beginning of August.

Hit an airport drag race August 18th when Street Car Takeover rained out - somehow managed to fail the crush collar in the newly rebuild diff, 200 miles from home with no trailer and no pinion preload. I also had the OE throwout bearing support (what a piece of crap that thing is) start crumbling during that event. I limped it home, did a billet throwout support myself, and then got it in to a local driveline shop. They found I had torched the pinion bearings by then. They got it back together with new but the gears suffered a bunch from driving with improper preload and were noisy as hell, they tried all sorts of things but couldn't get it quiet.

Having only a month left in the season I decided to just run it that way, and finally made it to the track in mid September. Found out at the track that my tuner had not removed the wheelspeed based factory rev limiter, which is at 5000rpm for wheel speeds under 10 mph. 5000rpm is not enough launch rpm to really get this car off the line, so it was stuck cutting 1.8 60' times dead hooking and bogging every time, going a best of 12.0@117. It was also having trouble spinning both tires on the burnout, my stock posi giving me the finger for not replacing it the last two times I had the diff out.

I got together with my tuner, and we dropped the wheel speed rev limiters completely, and added another hundred RPM to the master limiter - I now target at 7200rpm shift point. And then proceeded to get rained out for ALL of October.

So, 2019 is going to start out with YET ANOTHER ring and pinion, and an Eaton Trutrac. Hopefully that'll be the end of my rear end troubles for a long time. I think it'll easily go into the 11s then with a better 60', I think it'll do somewhere in the vicinity of an 11.85@119 with a 1.70 60' on the 305/45/18 tire setup I have now for the rear. I am considering going to a 315/30/18 Hoosier DR2 to see if I can get the car to come up in the power a little sooner/easier on the launch, and then really run out the back - it should be a 500rpm increase through the traps if it ran the same MPH, but it'll probably be even more than that out the back. If it would go a 1.55 60' I think it could go sub 11.60's @ 121ish. It's got zero weight reduction and stock sized 285/35/20's up front - so I have to manage my expectations. Maybe some day on 17" slicks/skinnies and all the seats and trunk stuff out it'll go sub 11.5.

[shaggy2002]

Originally Posted by acammer

Next step for me is getting the rest of the car to work with the power it has now. 2018 was an awful year for getting to the track - I did the cam at the May, broke my Richmond 4.10's exactly 1 week after getting the car out from that. Didn't have that back together till the end of June, and then waiting out the LPW diff support for 2 months - I didn't want to make any hits till that was in place. Did solid subframe bushings while waiting - one of the best mods I've ever done on this car. Finally got things back together at the beginning of August.

Hit an airport drag race August 18th when Street Car Takeover rained out - somehow managed to fail the crush collar in the newly rebuild diff, 200 miles from home with no trailer and no pinion preload. I also had the OE throwout bearing support (what a piece of crap that thing is) start crumbling during that event. I limped it home, did a billet throwout support myself, and then got it in to a local driveline shop. They found I had torched the pinion bearings by then. They got it back together with new but the gears suffered a bunch from driving with improper preload and were noisy as hell, they tried all sorts of things but couldn't get it quiet.

Having only a month left in the season I decided to just run it that way, and finally made it to the track in mid September. Found out at the track that my tuner had not removed the wheelspeed based factory rev limiter, which is at 5000rpm for wheel speeds under 10 mph. 5000rpm is not enough launch rpm to really get this car off the line, so it was stuck cutting 1.8 60' times dead hooking and bogging every time, going a best of 12.0@117. It was also having trouble spinning both tires on the burnout, my stock posi giving me the finger for not replacing it the last two times I had the diff out.

I got together with my tuner, and we dropped the wheel speed rev limiters completely, and added another hundred RPM to the master limiter - I now target at 7200rpm shift point. And then proceeded to get rained out for ALL of October.

So, 2019 is going to start out with YET ANOTHER ring and pinion, and an Eaton Trutrac. Hopefully that'll be the end of my rear end troubles for a long time. I think it'll easily go into the 11s then with a better 60', I think it'll do somewhere in the vicinity of an 11.85@119 with a 1.70 60' on the 305/45/18 tire setup I have now for the rear. I am considering going to a 315/30/18 Hoosier DR2 to see if I can get the car to come up in the power a little sooner/easier on the launch, and then really run out the back - it should be a 500rpm increase through the traps if it ran the same MPH, but it'll probably be even more than that out the back. If it would go a 1.55 60' I think it could go sub 11.60's @ 121ish. It's got zero weight reduction and stock sized 285/35/20's up front - so I have to manage my expectations. Maybe some day on 17" slicks/skinnies and all the seats and trunk stuff out it'll go sub 11.5.

Stick shift cars are hard on rear ends. Cost me a ton but I went 4L80e and been 12.18 with just headers, tune, drag pack, and some rear suspension mods.


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[acammer]

Originally Posted by shaggy2002

Stick shift cars are hard on rear ends. Cost me a ton but I went 4L80e and been 12.18 with just headers, tune, drag pack, and some rear suspension mods.


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Don't I know it!!! I have given a 4L80 swap serious contemplation, but I do get a lot of satisfaction about doing it "the hard way". I do take all measures I can to make it easy on the rear, I preload the driveline on the hit, I stay out of wheelhop at all costs, I try not to psycho-crush the 1-2 shift (this early 2011 TR6060 usually won't let you anyways), etc. I'm definitely in the drag-radial and work the clutch club, not the bias ply and dump the clutch club.

12.18 is pretty awesome, it's amazing what a good 60' will do for your ET.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by acammer

Next step for me is getting the rest of the car to work with the power it has now. 2018 was an awful year for getting to the track - I did the cam at the May, broke my Richmond 4.10's exactly 1 week after getting the car out from that. Didn't have that back together till the end of June, and then waiting out the LPW diff support for 2 months - I didn't want to make any hits till that was in place. Did solid subframe bushings while waiting - one of the best mods I've ever done on this car. Finally got things back together at the beginning of August.

Hit an airport drag race August 18th when Street Car Takeover rained out - somehow managed to fail the crush collar in the newly rebuild diff, 200 miles from home with no trailer and no pinion preload. I also had the OE throwout bearing support (what a piece of crap that thing is) start crumbling during that event. I limped it home, did a billet throwout support myself, and then got it in to a local driveline shop. They found I had torched the pinion bearings by then. They got it back together with new but the gears suffered a bunch from driving with improper preload and were noisy as hell, they tried all sorts of things but couldn't get it quiet.

Having only a month left in the season I decided to just run it that way, and finally made it to the track in mid September. Found out at the track that my tuner had not removed the wheelspeed based factory rev limiter, which is at 5000rpm for wheel speeds under 10 mph. 5000rpm is not enough launch rpm to really get this car off the line, so it was stuck cutting 1.8 60' times dead hooking and bogging every time, going a best of 12.0@117. It was also having trouble spinning both tires on the burnout, my stock posi giving me the finger for not replacing it the last two times I had the diff out.

I got together with my tuner, and we dropped the wheel speed rev limiters completely, and added another hundred RPM to the master limiter - I now target at 7200rpm shift point. And then proceeded to get rained out for ALL of October.

So, 2019 is going to start out with YET ANOTHER ring and pinion, and an Eaton Trutrac. Hopefully that'll be the end of my rear end troubles for a long time. I think it'll easily go into the 11s then with a better 60', I think it'll do somewhere in the vicinity of an 11.85@119 with a 1.70 60' on the 305/45/18 tire setup I have now for the rear. I am considering going to a 315/30/18 Hoosier DR2 to see if I can get the car to come up in the power a little sooner/easier on the launch, and then really run out the back - it should be a 500rpm increase through the traps if it ran the same MPH, but it'll probably be even more than that out the back. If it would go a 1.55 60' I think it could go sub 11.60's @ 121ish. It's got zero weight reduction and stock sized 285/35/20's up front - so I have to manage my expectations. Maybe some day on 17" slicks/skinnies and all the seats and trunk stuff out it'll go sub 11.5.

Man you’ve had a time with you car lol. I’m hoping to make it to next summer with out breaking anything then I’ll start on the suspension and maybe get some Drag Radials.

[shaggy2002]

Originally Posted by acammer

Don't I know it!!! I have given a 4L80 swap serious contemplation, but I do get a lot of satisfaction about doing it "the hard way". I do take all measures I can to make it easy on the rear, I preload the driveline on the hit, I stay out of wheelhop at all costs, I try not to psycho-crush the 1-2 shift (this early 2011 TR6060 usually won't let you anyways), etc. I'm definitely in the drag-radial and work the clutch club, not the bias ply and dump the clutch club.



12.18 is pretty awesome, it's amazing what a good 60' will do for your ET.

I had a 1.73 60ft on the 12.18. It was fun grabbing gears for sure but had to make switch because I am a bracket racer and needed to be consistent. Maybe get a TH400 so you can get the satisfaction from grabbing 2 gears?


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[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Man you’ve had a time with you car lol. I’m hoping to make it to next summer with out breaking anything then I’ll start on the suspension and maybe get some Drag Radials.

I've noticed our bunch can get a little off topic from the original title of the post lol

Weight reduction and 15" conversion is next but I really want that Eaton TrueTrac. 10s are so close and yet so far away it seems.

I think I am going to do skinnies with 17" Welds and cut off the roller skates first. What would you guys do, front or back first?

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

I've noticed our bunch can get a little off topic from the original title of the post lol

Weight reduction and 15" conversion is next but I really want that Eaton TrueTrac. 10s are so close and yet so far away it seems.

I think I am going to do skinnies with 17" Welds and cut off the roller skates first. What would you guys do, front or back first?

Lol we stray away a little. I would do the back first just because they seem a little more expensive.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Just sent my throttle body to bo today lvl 3 in a couple of weeks. It didn’t look to bad for 46xxx miles with no Catch Can.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Just sent my throttle body to bo today lvl 3 in a couple of weeks. It didn’t look to bad for 46xxx miles with no Catch Can.

I really need to get on that while he's still doing them. Did you decide on the catch can? Thought you went with Elite..

And yeah maybe you're right, as far as doing the back first. My 18s can hold me to the track pretty well if I do a burnout from hell on a well prepped track, still want the 15 though and the weight reduction they will bring...waiting to see what GPI does, Ryan said they are working on a conversion kit

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

I really need to get on that while he's still doing them. Did you decide on the catch can? Thought you went with Elite..

And yeah maybe you're right, as far as doing the back first. My 18s can hold me to the track pretty well if I do a burnout from hell on a well prepped track, still want the 15 though and the weight reduction they will bring...waiting to see what GPI does, Ryan said they are working on a conversion kit

I figured I’d better do anything I can think of so I can get it tuned once. I did decide on elite I just haven’t ordered it yet. When ever you get rid of th 18s let me know lol

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

I figured I’d better do anything I can think of so I can get it tuned once. I did decide on elite I just haven’t ordered it yet. When ever you get rid of th 18s let me know lol

For sure