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Old 01-17-2014, 02:08 PM   #8527
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I know I'm ready to get rolling down the track again! :-)

All I can say is expect to disappoint yourself the first few times. It is much tougher than it looks to get good, fast and consistent times with a manual car. It'll come to you sooner or later. But don't try to rush out and expect to be blazing fast. I know you will run good, just trying to help you out from my personal experience....lol! I've watched many guys nearly ready to give up after a few runs down the track. It can and will get frustrating.

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I'll have a couple months practice with some of my local buddies. I am definitely not qualified to give any kind of drag racing advice! My plan is to pick it up as fast as humanly possible.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:12 PM   #8528
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Your clutch should hold up to your current power level Bro. I made 9 or 10 passes (some of them back to back) and had zero issues with my clutch. The biggest issue I had was keeping the TR6060 hot between runs so I wouldn't grind 2-3 shifts.




Do you have any launching advice hemp? I read a thread in the drag racing discussion where most people advised starting the burnout in second gear, and slipping the clutch out with DRs at about 4500-5k rpms. And the recommended psi for DRs was about 16-17psi.



Do it bro! Even though I had fun when I ran at the track, I wasted my time pretty much running on street tires.




Yea I'm hyped. Can't wait until the weather gets warmer. I'm hoping for an 11.60 or better, which shouldn't be hard with seat time.
There is a thread for launching a manual that is a pretty good read!
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:15 PM   #8529
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I couldn't find the VR1 so I'm going with Amsoil Signature Series....
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:18 PM   #8530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS3 SS View Post
Do you have any launching advice hemp? I read a thread in the drag racing discussion where most people advised starting the burnout in second gear, and slipping the clutch out with DRs at about 4500-5k rpms. And the recommended psi for DRs was about 16-17psi.
It all varies heavily on weather conditions and the track condition.

Those are all good starting points and will vary per the conditions I mentioned above. I know a lot of manual guys launch at about 3,800-4,200 rpms if they don't have a ton of traction.

Being a auto car I just go high as I can in rpms without breaking the tires loose... lol though a 3600 stall helps launches be around 3300rpms
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:14 PM   #8531
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I couldn't find the VR1 so I'm going with Amsoil Signature Series....
Lemme know how much you're paying Brian. I might be able to get it to you cheaper.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:17 PM   #8532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TornadoSS View Post
I know I'm ready to get rolling down the track again! :-)

All I can say is expect to disappoint yourself the first few times. It is much tougher than it looks to get good, fast and consistent times with a manual car. It'll come to you sooner or later. But don't try to rush out and expect to be blazing fast. I know you will run good, just trying to help you out from my personal experience....lol! I've watched many guys nearly ready to give up after a few runs down the track. It can and will get frustrating.
Only way i'll be disappointed is if i break something and don't get to race. Bring on the shitty runs!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ject View Post
It all varies heavily on weather conditions and the track condition.

Those are all good starting points and will vary per the conditions I mentioned above. I know a lot of manual guys launch at about 3,800-4,200 rpms if they don't have a ton of traction.

Being a auto car I just go high as I can in rpms without breaking the tires loose... lol though a 3600 stall helps launches be around 3300rpms
I have to launch at 2200 on my street tires. 3800 would be awesome. I hope I get that much out of the drag radials.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:49 PM   #8533
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You should poke around on bobistheoilguy and look for actual lab test results. The levels of additives don't tell the whole story. There is a reason everyone says amsoil, joe gibbs, VR1, etc... They test well.
Yeah I actually checked that out after I posted that link. Pretty interesting stuff.

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Lemme know how much you're paying Brian. I might be able to get it to you cheaper.
I'll be paying like $120.50/box of 12 quarts. If I chose Amsoil over anything else.
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:56 PM   #8534
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Lemme know how much you're paying Brian. I might be able to get it to you cheaper.
I took my car to an oil/lube place that stocks it. It was $130 for amsoil signature, amsoil filter and them changing it.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:00 PM   #8535
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I took my car to an oil/lube place that stocks it. It was $130 for amsoil signature, amsoil filter and them changing it.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:02 PM   #8536
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Its good for 25,000 miles or one year. It's really not that bad if u break it down.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:07 PM   #8537
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Yeah I actually checked that out after I posted that link. Pretty interesting stuff.



I'll be paying like $120.50/box of 12 quarts. If I chose Amsoil over anything else.
Ozzy got a case. His was $108 for 10/30 zrod. The signature series is pretty much the same price.

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I took my car to an oil/lube place that stocks it. It was $130 for amsoil signature, amsoil filter and them changing it.
The last 8 qts 5/30 ss + amsoil EA filter I had shipped was $94.34 to Houston.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:10 PM   #8538
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Its good for 25,000 miles or one year. It's really not that bad if u break it down.
I think the 25,000 mile interval is for clean air environments and non-abused vehicles. You probably fall into the 15K/1YR interval. Either way... it's still once a year.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:30 PM   #8539
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I think the 25,000 mile interval is for clean air environments and non-abused vehicles. You probably fall into the 15K/1YR interval. Either way... it's still once a year.
BBBBBut there have been SEVERAL threads where people say you should change your oil every 3k miles, no matter what oil you're using.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:32 PM   #8540
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What about LS30? That's what I'm running.
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