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Old 05-01-2011, 09:23 PM   #85
Joe in T.O.
 
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GTAHVIT, As a full time home designer, I will add my 2 cents worth:
a) Move your laundry door to the left as the steps will interfere with your post.
b) Put footings in for your post if you still can
c) although you have 10-6" height in dotted area, the outline of your garage door indicates it may interfere with the car (on the hoist) so that may be a trouble spot with the design. In other words, the garage door will clear the lift but may hit the end of the back of the car, or the garage door may not open completely.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:40 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Joe in T.O. View Post
GTAHVIT, As a full time home designer, I will add my 2 cents worth:
a) Move your laundry door to the left as the steps will interfere with your post.
b) Put footings in for your post if you still can
c) although you have 10-6" height in dotted area, the outline of your garage door indicates it may interfere with the car (on the hoist) so that may be a trouble spot with the design. In other words, the garage door will clear the lift but may hit the end of the back of the car, or the garage door may not open completely.
Joe in T.O.
thanks for the coments. Tell me if my answers make sense.

There shouldn't be any steps into the house. The garage foundations will be flat all the way to the house with one step up into the door.

By post I'm guessing you mean for the lift.

I'm probably going with a 4 post on casters that I can move from the side of the garage to the center when I have to do work under the car... which is not very often. I could not affort to have 10' walls so I do know that the lift when on one side will likely only be able to park one car, not two. (one underneath and one on top)

I'm still toying with the idea of a 2 post lift dead in the middle of the garage.... but I'm not sure that would be wise use of the 2 car garage space. hence my plan for a 4 post on casters.

If I do install a 2 post, I'll probably have the footers poured then.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:03 PM   #87
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thanks for the coments. Tell me if my answers make sense.

There shouldn't be any steps into the house. The garage foundations will be flat all the way to the house with one step up into the door.

By post I'm guessing you mean for the lift.

I'm probably going with a 4 post on casters that I can move from the side of the garage to the center when I have to do work under the car... which is not very often. I could not affort to have 10' walls so I do know that the lift when on one side will likely only be able to park one car, not two. (one underneath and one on top)

I'm still toying with the idea of a 2 post lift dead in the middle of the garage.... but I'm not sure that would be wise use of the 2 car garage space. hence my plan for a 4 post on casters.

If I do install a 2 post, I'll probably have the footers poured then.
Yes, the 4 post on casters is a good solution. I would still move the laundry door. Picture yourself walking into the garage from the laundry room and (as it is currently drawn, the post will be almost right in line with the middle of the door way. You can still get by it but it will be a pain.
I probably didn't explain the garage door interference issue that I foresee. When the garage door is open, it is in a horizontal position approximately 7'-6" above the floor. If you are lifting a car up on the lift, you will only be able to lift it to 7'-6" high before it strikes the garage door (unless it is a smaller car). Hopefully this makes sense.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:07 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by Joe in T.O. View Post
Yes, the 4 post on casters is a good solution. I would still move the laundry door. Picture yourself walking into the garage from the laundry room and (as it is currently drawn, the post will be almost right in line with the middle of the door way. You can still get by it but it will be a pain.
I probably didn't explain the garage door interference issue that I foresee. When the garage door is open, it is in a horizontal position approximately 7'-6" above the floor. If you are lifting a car up on the lift, you will only be able to lift it to 7'-6" high before it strikes the garage door (unless it is a smaller car). Hopefully this makes sense.
Joe
I gotchya... I'm hoping I can move the lift far enough forward that it won't be a problem... I can do some quick math....

If I had to I can just do work with the door down.... but... I see your point...
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:15 PM   #89
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I look forward to the pictures. It looks like a nice subdivision!
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:19 PM   #90
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I look forward to the pictures. It looks like a nice subdivision!
Thanks very much,

Here's the lift I'm thinking about... or one similar.



The posts are 13' 5" by 8' 6" at the top.

The Dimensions of the Trey are 15' 4" by 9' 0"

The garage door would only cut about 1' 8" from the length of the trey. leaving me 13' 8" of length with the door open.

Overall Height: 10' 6"

Camaro Height: 04' 6" (from floor to roofline)

Max Lift Rise Height: 06 '0" (How high I can lift the car measured from the bottom of the tires before I'll hit the roof)

GTAHVIT Height: 05 '9"

Left Over Height: 00' 3"

Considering the car sits about 3" or 4" off the ground and the ramps are 4" tall, I'll only need to raise the lift about. 5' 2" to be able to stand under it.

So I could position the lift to the far right side of the trey and all the way forward and still have enough room to stand under the camaro, open the door to the laundry room, and open the garage door while we work.

Now the Tahoe... might be a liiiiitle bit tighter.

Added the most recent plans for reference
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:21 PM   #91
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To hell with Doc........... Im coming to your house.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:26 PM   #92
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To hell with Doc........... Im coming to your house.
Just need to figure out how to get the dyno in the one car side..




HOA shouldn't have a problem with that???

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Old 05-01-2011, 11:47 PM   #93
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Just need to figure out how to get the dyno in the one car side..




HOA shouldn't have a problem with that???

Dude. If you got a dyno, I'd be there to 'Scout' our new location right away.
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:50 PM   #94
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Dude. If you got a dyno, I'd be there to 'Scout' our new location right away.
Took me a while to figure out what you meant...
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:53 PM   #95
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Took me a while to figure out what you meant...
Tax deductable dyno pulls..............
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Old 05-01-2011, 11:55 PM   #96
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Tax deductable dyno pulls..............
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:02 AM   #97
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Shit....... With the news and all I didn't get my spark plugs done....
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:51 AM   #98
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Its up to you, It help prevent the slab from lifting.

But if you have wire mesh that helps too.

And last a 6 mil plastic waterproof member.

Here you go.
Down here in Florida most track builders will only use rebar for the footers, no wire mesh for the slab and just plastic over the foundation before pouring the concrete. Depending who the builder is (most will stick with 2500 reg w/ res fiber) when my 1st house was built my builder poured 3500 blend w/ commercial fiber.

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