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Old 11-01-2016, 09:44 PM   #1
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BA mylink Radio - High or low level inputs?

Using a FARK, not sure if inputs are high or low level?
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:02 PM   #2
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The MyLink head unit output in the BA system is low (line) level.

I used a FARK in my BA system, and all the outputs were connected at line level to an Audio Control processor.

There are 4 different MyLink units. 1. MyLink /no BA/no nav 2. MyLink/no BA/with nav 3. MyLink/BA/no nav and 4. Mylink/BA/with nav.

The non BA MyLinks have high level powered outputs, while the BA MyLinks have 4 volt line level outputs and interface with an outboard 7 channel factory amp (non vert cars).
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:47 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jeffa View Post
The MyLink head unit output in the BA system is low (line) level.

I used a FARK in my BA system, and all the outputs were connected at line level to an Audio Control processor.

There are 4 different MyLink units. 1. MyLink /no BA/no nav 2. MyLink/no BA/with nav 3. MyLink/BA/no nav and 4. Mylink/BA/with nav.

The non BA MyLinks have high level powered outputs, while the BA MyLinks have 4 volt line level outputs and interface with an outboard 7 channel factory amp (non vert cars).
Thank you for confirming that information. I read several posts that said when people used the FARK harness into line level inputs that they had to turn their gains all the way down stating that the signal was "hot". I think someone said something like 8 volts+ or something. This had me curious. I plan to put in an Alpine PDX 5 with the FARK harness and one of the sub thump passenger side boxes and didn't want to run into any high level signal problems.
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Old 08-04-2017, 10:48 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ghost0217 View Post
Thank you for confirming that information. I read several posts that said when people used the FARK harness into line level inputs that they had to turn their gains all the way down stating that the signal was "hot". I think someone said something like 8 volts+ or something. This had me curious. I plan to put in an Alpine PDX 5 with the FARK harness and one of the sub thump passenger side boxes and didn't want to run into any high level signal problems.
I just hooked up a PDR-V75 and I found you need to have the gains down pretty low or you will get distortion. I heard the signal was like 4 volts out of the BA headunit. I can't see going over 1/4 on the amp gains with stock speakers.
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Old 08-08-2017, 10:06 AM   #5
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I just hooked up a PDR-V75 and I found you need to have the gains down pretty low or you will get distortion. I heard the signal was like 4 volts out of the BA headunit. I can't see going over 1/4 on the amp gains with stock speakers.
I wonder why everyone runs into that problem with having to keep the gains at a minimum. I've heard where guys can't even go over 12 on the volume on the radio after replacing the boston amp. It has to be a higher signal.

Can anyone confirm for sure?

Thanks,
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:47 PM   #6
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I tapped my BA system before the stock amp and ran those to the speaker level inputs on an AudioControl LC7i. People say they are low level, but they light up my LC7i through the speaker level inputs. Maybe you can run them into low level inputs, but I'm going to keep the LC7i in there to clean up things and give me reliable, controlled low level outputs with bass correction until I get my hands on a DQ-61 at some point and upgrade.
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Old 08-17-2017, 11:22 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by VTSummit View Post
I tapped my BA system before the stock amp and ran those to the speaker level inputs on an AudioControl LC7i. People say they are low level, but they light up my LC7i through the speaker level inputs. Maybe you can run them into low level inputs, but I'm going to keep the LC7i in there to clean up things and give me reliable, controlled low level outputs with bass correction until I get my hands on a DQ-61 at some point and upgrade.
They are not low level. they are high level. the stock speakers are so weak that the small level is enough to drive them. I ran them with the FARK and it heated my RCAS up quickly ( not cheap. spent about 55 on 2 cables ) and make a screech noise when plugged in. The LC7i is great btw. I ran the boston 4 into my DSP and then back out to my amplifiers.
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Old 08-18-2017, 02:15 PM   #8
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They are not low level. they are high level. the stock speakers are so weak that the small level is enough to drive them. I ran them with the FARK and it heated my RCAS up quickly ( not cheap. spent about 55 on 2 cables ) and make a screech noise when plugged in. The LC7i is great btw. I ran the boston 4 into my DSP and then back out to my amplifiers.
This is not correct.

The outputs from a MyLink BA unit are low level. I have them running into an Audio Control DQDX processor at the RCA inputs not the high level inputs and the input gains are set about half way up to match outputs for the amps. The MyLink output in my system is between 4-6 volts, which is low level and can be connected to any amplifiers low level input without overloading it. I used the FARK RCA adapter and had no overloading issues.

Your RCA cables should not be getting warm under normal operation, and even a high level signal (up to 30 volts) should not heat the RCA's. I suspect a short in the cable or RCA connector, or what you are connecting to the RCA's has a short at the input circuit.
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Old 08-18-2017, 06:33 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jeffa View Post
This is not correct.

The outputs from a MyLink BA unit are low level. I have them running into an Audio Control DQDX processor at the RCA inputs not the high level inputs and the input gains are set about half way up to match outputs for the amps. The MyLink output in my system is between 4-6 volts, which is low level and can be connected to any amplifiers low level input without overloading it. I used the FARK RCA adapter and had no overloading issues.

Your RCA cables should not be getting warm under normal operation, and even a high level signal (up to 30 volts) should not heat the RCA's. I suspect a short in the cable or RCA connector, or what you are connecting to the RCA's has a short at the input circuit.
the mylink may be different. All i know is i checked everything and the voltage was not 4-6 at all.
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:30 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Leo72793 View Post
the mylink may be different. All i know is i checked everything and the voltage was not 4-6 at all.
Do you have the Boston Acoustics MyLink? If so, would you mind re-checking for us? I would appreciate it if either of you could.

I plan to pick up a SMD DD1 for setting my gains anyways, so we can see at what volume the MyLink headunit clips.

I've also been toying with the idea of using a DSP of some sort, 3Sixty/BitTen/JBL MS-8/etc. This is my first time attempting to keep the stock headunit in any vehicle I've ever owned with a 5 channel setup. Looking for ideas before I put it all together.

So far I've got all Stinger wiring/interconnects/distros/fuse blocks, Polk MM Components/Polk MM Coax's/Polk MM 10" Sub/Alpine PDX 5/Stinger Road Kill Insulation

Still deciding on a DSP, whether I want to actually replace the rears, run just front in active, leave the rears stock and crossed HP crossed, etc.

Still need to pick up the FARK Harness, and a box for the 10".

I'm open to suggestions too, but my main holdup has been this question of High vs. Low input as I keep getting mixed results from other members when using the harness.

Thank you all for such a great forum.

Ghost.
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Old 08-19-2017, 06:57 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by ghost0217 View Post
Do you have the Boston Acoustics MyLink? If so, would you mind re-checking for us? I would appreciate it if either of you could.

I plan to pick up a SMD DD1 for setting my gains anyways, so we can see at what volume the MyLink headunit clips.

I've also been toying with the idea of using a DSP of some sort, 3Sixty/BitTen/JBL MS-8/etc. This is my first time attempting to keep the stock headunit in any vehicle I've ever owned with a 5 channel setup. Looking for ideas before I put it all together.

So far I've got all Stinger wiring/interconnects/distros/fuse blocks, Polk MM Components/Polk MM Coax's/Polk MM 10" Sub/Alpine PDX 5/Stinger Road Kill Insulation

Still deciding on a DSP, whether I want to actually replace the rears, run just front in active, leave the rears stock and crossed HP crossed, etc.

Still need to pick up the FARK Harness, and a box for the 10".

I'm open to suggestions too, but my main holdup has been this question of High vs. Low input as I keep getting mixed results from other members when using the harness.

Thank you all for such a great forum.

Ghost.

I do not have mylink. AVOID the 360.3 dsp. its a PITA/ Go helix pro if you can.

Skip the rears. Pointless to have. DSP doesnt care if high or low. can use either or. my BT sucks factory so i got a BT to optical and it does very well.

Youll need the harness either way. Just get it
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:42 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Leo72793 View Post
I do not have mylink. AVOID the 360.3 dsp. its a PITA/ Go helix pro if you can.

Skip the rears. Pointless to have. DSP doesnt care if high or low. can use either or. my BT sucks factory so i got a BT to optical and it does very well.

Youll need the harness either way. Just get it
Yeah, the harness is on the list. I haven't figured out a cleaner/simpler option, so its a must. I'm slowly obtaining everything. The harness and one of their passenger side boxes is next to get us started. Then add a dsp.

I wanted to keep the rear either way down or at least the rear tweeters as I'm told that the backup sensor noise comes from the rear tweeters and I kind of like that extra feature.

I was leaning towards the JBL DSP since it has a built in small amp. That way I can run my PDX active to the fronts, but still be able to power the rears off the JBL dsp. I can't remember if it has time alignment or not though. Still in research mode before making a choice.

Was anybody able to confirm the voltage coming from the BA headunits? I'm curious if the 10-13 BA non MyLink headunits have different voltage than the BA MyLink headunits. That could be the difference that I'm seeing in user posts stating can't crack the gains vs. running the gains low. Some have mentioned that the second they turn the gain up even the smallest amount, they get distortion.

Thanks again guys. Sorry for the threadjack to the OP.
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:58 AM   #13
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Yeah, the harness is on the list. I haven't figured out a cleaner/simpler option, so its a must. I'm slowly obtaining everything. The harness and one of their passenger side boxes is next to get us started. Then add a dsp.

I wanted to keep the rear either way down or at least the rear tweeters as I'm told that the backup sensor noise comes from the rear tweeters and I kind of like that extra feature.

I was leaning towards the JBL DSP since it has a built in small amp. That way I can run my PDX active to the fronts, but still be able to power the rears off the JBL dsp. I can't remember if it has time alignment or not though. Still in research mode before making a choice.

Was anybody able to confirm the voltage coming from the BA headunits? I'm curious if the 10-13 BA non MyLink headunits have different voltage than the BA MyLink headunits. That could be the difference that I'm seeing in user posts stating can't crack the gains vs. running the gains low. Some have mentioned that the second they turn the gain up even the smallest amount, they get distortion.

Thanks again guys. Sorry for the threadjack to the OP.

I used my DSP to combine the front and rear into 2ch and put the backup sensor beeping back in. unless i can get another DSP that has 10 outputs that doesnt have a ugly controller or an outdated one then i can put em back inthe rear.
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:10 AM   #14
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I used my DSP to combine the front and rear into 2ch and put the backup sensor beeping back in. unless i can get another DSP that has 10 outputs that doesnt have a ugly controller or an outdated one then i can put em back inthe rear.
You know, I didn't even think about that but you're right. It will still send the signal for the backup beeping, just to the fronts. Then I can run the front's active and just skip the rears. In all the years I've been playing with this stuff, I've yet to go active and yet to omit rear fill. If I do this, I may end up selling all my speakers and getting a nicer set of comps for the front. I was looking at a set of Focal P165 v15's earlier today. I've used components but never anything over $200'ish dollars and never anything by Focal/Hertz/MB/Dyn/etc. I also found a Focal Polyglass 27v sub locally and was wondering how nice it is. We'll see, keep everyone posted.

Thanks,
Ghost
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