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Old 03-12-2015, 07:16 PM   #15
Js2fst
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Go f1-r a guy just did 1050 and has room to go I have a 408 almost done it is similar with mast ls3 heads.
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo White View Post
Crank that bioch up. You will have to upgrade to a return style fuel delivery though to be safe.
LMFAO!!!
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:34 PM   #17
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Seriously....... way too much internet in this statement.
1000 RWHP on bone stock. I would have to say if you pushed that like it was meant to be pushed, it would not last long.
Or the fact that i did it

But thanks for reminding why i dont post much here
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Old 03-13-2015, 04:50 AM   #18
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Thanks guys. It is good to hear first hand experience. I will try to get the car up and running and finish the break in period. Then gona add the squash system+pump boost to 14-15 and tune.
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Old 03-13-2015, 05:24 AM   #19
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You can live in the 750 to 850whp area on stock bottom end, like Bo said, crank it up, as long as you have the fuel. I am at 15lbs of boost, the PSI is not so much the issue, its more about how much power and cylinder pressure.
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Old 03-13-2015, 07:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Col. Brain View Post
Or the fact that i did it

But thanks for reminding why i dont post much here
That's amazing. I got hit by a fast moving car once and I am still alive. Doesn't mean I suggest others to do it.

Like I said, if you drive it hard, 1000 rwhp on a stock engine might last a day, or a month, but will not last long.

Good luck with yours.
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Old 03-13-2015, 07:51 AM   #21
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J-Rod6410 has been at 919whp for over a year, car has high miles on it and he drives it hard. There are others.....
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Old 03-13-2015, 07:56 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by 1KillerSS View Post
J-Rod6410 has been at 919whp for over a year, car has high miles on it and he drives it hard. There are others.....
The op asked advice about the forged motor he is building. To tell him it would be better to do a stock engine is just silly.

I guess definition of running hard is subjective. I have yet to see one make it through a season, if driven hard and taken to the track, which is the only reason anyone would need that power.
If its a dyno queen and cruises to car shows, I guess that should work out fine.
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ID 1000 injectors, comp rockers, Morel lifters, BT springs, Trend 3/8 pushrods, ATI 10% OD Damper
Circle D Triple Disc stall
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:00 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realcanuk View Post
The op asked advice about the forged motor he is building. To tell him it would be better to do a stock engine is just silly.

I guess definition of running hard is subjective. I have yet to see one make it through a season, if driven hard and taken to the track, which is the only reason anyone would need that power.
If its a dyno queen and cruises to car shows, I guess that should work out fine.
Jrods car is far from a dyno queen and weekend cruises to car shows, I never suggested the OP would be better doing it with a stock bottom end. I will try to clear up what I am saying then.....The OP's HP goals are totally within his reach with that forged motor, considering he is wanting to keep it at a number that stock bottom ends have shown they can handle.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:14 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by realcanuk View Post
That's amazing. I got hit by a fast moving car once and I am still alive. Doesn't mean I suggest others to do it.

Like I said, if you drive it hard, 1000 rwhp on a stock engine might last a day, or a month, but will not last long.

Good luck with yours.


Going on season 3. It runs mid 5s at 140 in the 1/8th mile. You can be the judge if that is driving hard or not. And it has over 50 passes on it. Not bad for $1500 motor with 80k on it eh?

But you seem to know it all so carry on.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:16 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Col. Brain View Post


Going on season 3. It runs mid 5s at 140 in the 1/8th mile. You can be the judge if that is driving hard or not. And it has over 50 passes on it. Not bad for $1500 motor with 80k on it eh?

But you seem to know it all so carry on.
Ok... I give in....

OP.... the best thing you could do here is scrap the whole plan. Put in a stock motor and upgrade to an F1 blower..

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THAT BUILT ENGINE......
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LME LS402 , WCCH 245 Heads, Pat G. Custom cam
YSI / 3.0 pulley, ARH 1 7/8 headers, NPP
Dewitts / dual spals, A&A dual pump fuel system.
3.42 polished gears, hardened shafts, Alky control meth, Cartech line lock, ECS axle loops, Trans brace, 6L80 built by me.
ID 1000 injectors, comp rockers, Morel lifters, BT springs, Trend 3/8 pushrods, ATI 10% OD Damper
Circle D Triple Disc stall
1009 RWHP @ 7000, 817 RWTQ @ 6000,
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:19 AM   #26
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:30 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by realcanuk View Post
Ok... I give in....

OP.... the best thing you could do here is scrap the whole plan. Put in a stock motor and upgrade to an F1 blower..

DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THAT BUILT ENGINE......
You also fail at reading comprehension

I said use a stock block and dial in his tune/setup. I have seen at least 6 "built" motors pop on the dyno/strip because something was off. Going the stock block route allows him to get the car close before swapping in his forged motor. I never said don't build a motor.

Also the limits of the d1sc is about 900hp. At 850 he's getting to the limit of that unit. F1 units will make atleast 100hp or more and with that forged block he may want to turn the wick up in the future. The bug bites. It always does. Id rather have the F1A for his build than a d1sc.

He was looking for advice. This is my .02. He can take it or he can leave it.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:32 AM   #28
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I'll say this and I've said it before on this forum.
It's like stereo equipment. Its like throwing 800 watts at a speaker that's rated for 400. Put a good amp and wires with a good install and play clean music and it will live if its not on 11 all the time. Add some distortion to it though.......pop.
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