Clutch Tamer Hitmaster. Who has one in their car?

[Jayjellyfish212]

Where can I get some of those power strips you got in the glove box for power and ground wires? Looks so much easier to add stuff with those and looks neat and cleanly laid out too.

[Nb1081]

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

I got stuck at a point where I installed a new Tick adjustable master cylinder at the same time and it did not work properly for me. I've sent it back to get them to check it out. The stock master cylinder works fine when I put it back in.

Same here no pressure built stock had pressure almost instant

[stratman2SSRS]

So I got my Tick master cylinder back and bled the system, and everything seems to be working fine now. I can now start the car, and get it to shift into gear, and the pedal feels much better. My Viking triple adjustable rear coil overs should be here this week, and I'll have more work to do this weekend.

[NXTLEVL]

I got the bus bars off of Amazon. There were tons of different ones to choose from and I actually went through two others before settling on these. The others had covers on them and were color coordinated (red/black) but they were too big/bigger than needed for the glove box application. I got the relays there as well. A 4-pack for like $10 including the pre-wired connectors. Links below:

BUS bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relays: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once you get a chance to do the STOV setup let me know. I'm brand new to HP Tuners and am very leery of changing anything in the tune without knowing exactly what I'm doing. I'll let you go first. LOL

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

I got the bus bars off of Amazon. There were tons of different ones to choose from and I actually went through two others before settling on these. The others had covers on them and were color coordinated (red/black) but they were too big/bigger than needed for the glove box application. I got the relays there as well. A 4-pack for like $10 including the pre-wired connectors. Links below:

BUS bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Relays: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once you get a chance to do the STOV setup let me know. I'm brand new to HP Tuners and am very leery of changing anything in the tune without knowing exactly what I'm doing. I'll let you go first. LOL

Thanks for the links... Going to get bus bars for sure. I got a few relays from other builds so good on those. Once I get the stov wired in the glove box I’ll definitely let ya know how it works etc. with the HPTuners stuff. My buddy Andy is way more knowledgeable with the tuner stuff than I am. I have the HPTuners pro version and a dedicated laptop for my car but never really mess around with changes in fear I’d mess something up lol. He’s planning on coming over and do it up so he can also post on here what exactly he ends up doing.

[NXTLEVL]

Ok, so it turns out getting the VSS signal for the STOV is incredibly simple.

Follow the instructions provided with the unit to program it to act as a simple switch, on/off, using the instructions on the "Speed Based Relay Control Mode" page. Set the PPM to 4,000 using the LOW MPH switches. Set dip switch #5 to "on". This is the pull-up resistor and needs to be turned on. The programming on the STOV is complete.

Now to what I thought was going to be the hard part. Go into HP Tuners and go to the speedometer tab. Under "Hardware" change the Speed Output Type to "VehSerial" and..... THAT'S IT! Seriously, nothing else to do. Reflash the ECM and you're done. I was all worried because I didn't see any numbers like 4,000 PPM or anything talking about turning on pin 57 but I went ahead and tried it and it's perfect.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

Ok, so it turns out getting the VSS signal for the STOV is incredibly simple.

Follow the instructions provided with the unit to program it to act as a simple switch, on/off, using the instructions on the "Speed Based Relay Control Mode" page. Set the PPM to 4,000 using the LOW MPH switches. Set dip switch #5 to "on". This is the pull-up resistor and needs to be turned on. The programming on the STOV is complete.

Now to what I thought was going to be the hard part. Go into HP Tuners and go to the speedometer tab. Under "Hardware" change the Speed Output Type to "VehSerial" and..... THAT'S IT! Seriously, nothing else to do. Reflash the ECM and you're done. I was all worried because I didn't see any numbers like 4,000 PPM or anything talking about turning on pin 57 but I went ahead and tried it and it's perfect.

Attachment 1023651

Awesome sauce good to know it’s a piece of cake and not a aggravation on trying to figure out a mystery with settings.

I am just waiting for those electrical bus bars to arrive so I can finalize the wire connections. Looking forward to completing this entire project. Hopefully I get to test it all out in a month or so when weather conditions are good, as long as the corona virus doesn’t get me or the world goes to hell beforehand

[NXTLEVL]

LOL. I'm self-quarantining.. In my shop!

I'm pretty much there with all the changes I wanted to get done this winter. I started her up yesterday and everything sounded great. But... I have a pretty serious leak of brake fluid and I can't figure out what's leaking. Can't really see anything either. I'm thinking I may have blown out the reservoir seals with the power bleeder but I can't really confirm. Need someone to pump the brakes and hopefully I'll see something come out of somewhere... I knew it couldn't be this easy.

[stratman2SSRS]

Now that the Hitmaster and new master cylinder are all hooked up and working I’m moving on to some suspension work

[NXTLEVL]

I've got everything hooked up and bled but unfortunately with the weather and the lock down I haven't been able to test anything. For some reason I sprung a huge brake fluid leak after trying to bleed everything the first time which caused me to replace the booster, master cylinder and the reservoir. Overkill no doubt but I wasn't about to do anything a third time. After removal it turned out it was the seal on the back of the master cylinder where it contacts the booster. No idea what happened, perhaps too much pressure with the power bleeder, but it seems to be good now. The brake fluid is so damn corrosive! I've lost most of the paint under the master cylinder in the engine bay and a little from the inner fender as well. (I had a MAJOR leak)... I deep cleaned all I could but even today, 5 days after the fact, there was still a little drip that came from one of the panel gaps in the fender. This re-do and cleanup took longer than the entire roll control/shift valve installation did.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

I've got everything hooked up and bled but unfortunately with the weather and the lock down I haven't been able to test anything. For some reason I sprung a huge brake fluid leak after trying to bleed everything the first time which caused me to replace the booster, master cylinder and the reservoir. Overkill no doubt but I wasn't about to do anything a third time. After removal it turned out it was the seal on the back of the master cylinder where it contacts the booster. No idea what happened, perhaps too much pressure with the power bleeder, but it seems to be good now. The brake fluid is so damn corrosive! I've lost most of the paint under the master cylinder in the engine bay and a little from the inner fender as well. (I had a MAJOR leak)... I deep cleaned all I could but even today, 5 days after the fact, there was still a little drip that came from one of the panel gaps in the fender. This re-do and cleanup took longer than the entire roll control/shift valve installation did.

You didn’t do the clutch and brake fluid separation yet I take it based on your posting? Certainly well worth the separation of the 2 and a cheap mod to do.


My current update....
I got my car 70% wired up and the bus bars in the glove box plus moved my pre-existing stuff like my ctap controller to in the glove box. I decided since I have the extended period of down time to order some nice custom switches for the clutch pedal launch controller, the 2 step and the line lock and will be setting the switches up in a custom oem like trim panel. Figured nows the best time to do it. I’ll post some pictures soon once the switches arrive. The glove box was a great idea. I kept the controllers each with a long enough wire as a harness so I can hold them and adjust as needed from the drivers seat. Really worked out great and a big thanks to NXTLEVL for the great idea.

[NXTLEVL]

Hi guys. I ran into what could be a huge issue after testing the 2-step today. I stated a new thread so it get's some attention and we can keep this one focused on the installation and work of the clutch valve and related items we've been talking about. Any input is of course appreciated.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...9#post10759649

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

Hi guys. I ran into what could be a huge issue after testing the 2-step today. I stated a new thread so it get's some attention and we can keep this one focused on the installation and work of the clutch valve and related items we've been talking about. Any input is of course appreciated.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...9#post10759649

Dang that sucks.... from my personal experience with these cars I suggest looking over all the oem connectors. There may be a very poor connection because they wear out and get loose I noticed on any car that has a lot of mods of has been worked on a lot from plugging and unplugging the oem connectors. Happened to me last year after going bonkers searching for a issue it turned out to be a worn connector that had 5-6 wires in the female part. The oem connectors are not designed to be removed and reinstalled a bunch of times from what I learned. Sounds like that a poor wire connection is very possible somewhere.

[Jayjellyfish212]

My custom switches arrived so I can now finish up the new wiring work for the controllers!