MGW SHIFTER - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

stang stopper · 01-14-2019, 05:11 PM

Yeah it kinda sucks to pay $30-45 for a knob when you`ve spent $350 for a shifter.

J Rod · 01-14-2019, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stang stopper

Yeah it kinda sucks to pay $30-45 for a knob when you`ve spent $350 for a shifter.

I just dropped that much on a friggin catch can, would've loved to have spent it on an MGW instead. I think that will have to be on next winter's mod list though. I am not a fan of stock the shifter at all.

lionssfan · 01-14-2019, 08:45 PM

mgw also supplied there own arms and or bracket attachments to the trans. unlike Hurst you get just the shift tower replacement. one reason why it cost more.

go_go_gadget88 · 01-15-2019, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

MGW is great, but be ready to lower the trans.

I am looking at this shifter as well, and am curious how big of a pain this is to do? Definitely not a dealbreaker, just curious how involved this install is?

lionssfan · 01-15-2019, 07:04 PM

not to bad. depends on your mechanical back round I guess. you need to lower the back of the trans down. can't remember most likely removed the trans mount out of the way completely, and supporting the trans with a hydraulic jack. the hardest part is removing the slid pins that retain the mgw shifter arms to the trans. I would apply penetrant to the pins for easier removal. the right side is close to the tunnel the trans resides in. you have to pry the trans over some or place a wooden block in place to make some room to slide the pin out. that really is the hardest parts of the job.

Sinister10 · 01-15-2019, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lionssfan

not to bad. depends on your mechanical back round I guess. you need to lower the back of the trans down. can't remember most likely removed the trans mount out of the way completely, and supporting the trans with a hydraulic jack. the hardest part is removing the slid pins that retain the mgw shifter arms to the trans. I would apply penetrant to the pins for easier removal. the right side is close to the tunnel the trans resides in. you have to pry the trans over some or place a wooden block in place to make some room to slide the pin out. that really is the hardest parts of the job.

^this.. when i installed mine, i had the install video Q'ed up on my ipad and did the install step by step along with the video.

zlathim · 01-15-2019, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

I am looking at this shifter as well, and am curious how big of a pain this is to do? Definitely not a dealbreaker, just curious how involved this install is?

The install is not easy, but it's all nuts and bolts (and those funky pins with clips ha ha), no precision work involved.

I did mine when I installed the clutch, so I already had stuff easily accessible after the transmission had been bolted back up to the engine. Having the driveshaft out of the way definitely helped me, but just lowering the transmission will aid installation almost as much. It is easy to do with a basic floor jack. Position the jack and take the weight off the transmission, then remove the trans crossmember. Lower the jack so that you can access those funky pins. Those pins are why you need clearance because the driver side (IIRC) is hard to remove and replace.

The inside stuff is fairly straight forward. The shifter WILL NOT come with instructions. Watch the youtube video on the MGW website. Follow the instructions and you will be fine.

You're gonna like this shifter. Vast improvement over stock.

SS 310H55A · 01-25-2019, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlathim

The "short throw" will accept the factory shift knob, the "flat stick" will not. Other than that I have no idea if there is a difference. I have the flat stick and I love it.

There is no functional difference between the flat stick shifter and the shifter for oem use aside from the fact that the flat stick requires a 3/8-16 threaded shift knob and the shifter for oem use is designed to use the factory shift knob. You could interchange the handles and the shifter will still shift exactly the same.

broshua · 01-25-2019, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS 310H55A

There is no functional difference between the flat stick shifter and the shifter for oem use aside from the fact that the flat stick requires a 3/8-16 threaded shift knob and the shifter for oem use is designed to use the factory shift knob. You could interchange the handles and the shifter will still shift exactly the same.

So if I have the Chevy Short Shifter, what shift knob will fit as I do not like the pistol grip knob.

SS 310H55A · 01-25-2019, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by broshua

So if I have the Chevy Short Shifter, what shift knob will fit as I do not like the pistol grip knob.

Epco and Raceseng both sell some nice shift knobs with various adapters to make their knobs universal for most any type of shifter.

01-14-2019, 08:45 PM	#17
lionssfan Drives: 2010 2ss camaro Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: mi Posts: 1,184 View My Garage	mgw also supplied there own arms and or bracket attachments to the trans. unlike Hurst you get just the shift tower replacement. one reason why it cost more. __________________ 2012 zl1 stock 7000 miles 2010 TVS2300, BTR cam PD stage 3, ID1050 injectors, CHE bronze trunnions, 7.400" pushrods,.660" lift platinum springs, Titanium ret, Zl1 fuel pump, Kooks LT headers, High flow cats, Roto Fab CAI, Corsa exh., Mellings oil pump, HD chain, ls2 damper, all synthetic, BMR control arms, zl1 toe link, BMR cradle mounts, W/bottle relocation, air scoop deflector, Hennessy wheels, two piece rotor, morimoto fogs, DRL harness, coilovers, Heads up install, mgw shifter, slps splitter, slp spoiler, zl1 side skirts, painted strips, debadged, tinted, 2018 emblems. Edit Signature

01-15-2019, 07:04 PM	#19
lionssfan Drives: 2010 2ss camaro Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: mi Posts: 1,184 View My Garage	not to bad. depends on your mechanical back round I guess. you need to lower the back of the trans down. can't remember most likely removed the trans mount out of the way completely, and supporting the trans with a hydraulic jack. the hardest part is removing the slid pins that retain the mgw shifter arms to the trans. I would apply penetrant to the pins for easier removal. the right side is close to the tunnel the trans resides in. you have to pry the trans over some or place a wooden block in place to make some room to slide the pin out. that really is the hardest parts of the job. __________________ 2012 zl1 stock 7000 miles 2010 TVS2300, BTR cam PD stage 3, ID1050 injectors, CHE bronze trunnions, 7.400" pushrods,.660" lift platinum springs, Titanium ret, Zl1 fuel pump, Kooks LT headers, High flow cats, Roto Fab CAI, Corsa exh., Mellings oil pump, HD chain, ls2 damper, all synthetic, BMR control arms, zl1 toe link, BMR cradle mounts, W/bottle relocation, air scoop deflector, Hennessy wheels, two piece rotor, morimoto fogs, DRL harness, coilovers, Heads up install, mgw shifter, slps splitter, slp spoiler, zl1 side skirts, painted strips, debadged, tinted, 2018 emblems. Edit Signature

01-14-2019, 05:11 PM	#15
stang stopper Drives: 45th anniversary camaro ss Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: South Carolina Posts: 131	Yeah it kinda sucks to pay $30-45 for a knob when you`ve spent $350 for a shifter.