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Old 02-16-2011, 11:03 PM   #15
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OMG!!!!! I forgot all about that mod! I was poking fun at the "$140" heater hose kit available elsewhere. It's just a piece of plastic fence material zip-tied to the bottom of the hoses. Just for fun, but it actually lowered fuel temps on that side of the engine by 20 degrees! Someone said it looked like a panty liner, but I wouldn't know. Don't use them, myself.
How did you measure the fuel temp?
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:42 AM   #16
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http://www.amazon.com/ThermoTech-TT1...7942900&sr=1-4

You can learn a lot.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:50 AM   #17
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With that you are only reading the surface temps of the carrier material not actual temps. Actual temps would need an adapter with a sensor installed in the flow, like we use to monitor intercooler fluid.
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Old 02-17-2011, 10:48 AM   #18
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I had one of those water separators for air compressors on my car. It worked ok for the first month or so, then it stopped filtering the oil out. I'm guessing that the filter became ineffective since it was designed for water and not oil. A quality catch can is what you would need to look for.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:59 PM   #19
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HAHAHA, maybe YOU need to learn a little before telling others to.

So you're translating the surface temp change of your fuel line into fuel temp changes, or do you have a area in the fuel line where you can make direct contact with the fuel? Now that would be teaching me something. What factors did you use to calculate the heat transfer of SS vs the flow of the fuel?
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:06 PM   #20
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The carrier material temperature is transferred to the fuel where the hot hoses rest upon the fuel rail. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that if you remove the contact heat source, you lessen the possibility of additional and unnecessary heat transfer. Leave yours stock; it's OK with me.

Never use one of those porous-metal filters like an air-water separator uses; way too easy to be clogged with oil particulates. Replace with some other filter material.
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRed585Lbs View Post
The carrier material temperature is transferred to the fuel where the hot hoses rest upon the fuel rail. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that if you remove the contact heat source, you lessen the possibility of additional and unnecessary heat transfer. Leave yours stock; it's OK with me.

Never use one of those porous-metal filters like an air-water separator uses; way too easy to be clogged with oil particulates. Replace with some other filter material.
No one was debating the science. You stated Fuel temps dropped by 20 degrees. Axis wonder how you knew that fact and you showed a surface temp device. Judging by your response to our curiousity, I'll assume you didn't mean fuel, but fuel rail temps were 20* lower at idle flow. Hood opened is assumed.

As far as the less expensive not automotove specific catch cans. Those of you that drive in cold temps already know that in the winter the catch is a thick slippery foamy mess. Not something good for a device not designed to filter it.
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRed585Lbs View Post
The carrier material temperature is transferred to the fuel where the hot hoses rest upon the fuel rail. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to see that if you remove the contact heat source, you lessen the possibility of additional and unnecessary heat transfer. Leave yours stock; it's OK with me.

Never use one of those porous-metal filters like an air-water separator uses; way too easy to be clogged with oil particulates. Replace with some other filter material.
Your "science" is fine, but your degree of change is WAY OFF.

Your fuel isn't standing still. The heat is being transfered to a constantly moving liquid that isn't being recirculated. While I'll agree that it's possilble that this may lower your fuel temps, it won't be anywhere near 20degrees. I'd be greatly suprised if it was more than 2.

IndeedSS1 also makes a good point about being at idle and with the hood open. There are many factors that can affect temps.

I do agree on the pourus filters though.
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Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
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Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

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Old 02-17-2011, 03:49 PM   #23
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Just wondering if anyone tried this $46.99 is a great price if it works?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...oductId=763433
That is an Air compressor Water Separator, Might work but won't be very effective.

Ted.
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:12 PM   #24
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Here is a pic of the LPE catch can. I have run this same LPE unit on my TT Vette for five years now and it works great. Put another one on my Camaro last month. More pricey but more gooder. Made for oil, not water.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/pictur...ictureid=45000
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Old 02-17-2011, 04:30 PM   #25
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Don't forget Mike Norris. A fine product, also.
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