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Old 01-19-2015, 07:39 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07 View Post
When someone disagrees with you it's a 'better idea.' When it's your idea, it's proof positive. Lol.

Same reason I don't post much publicly anymore either.
No, it's that everyone has an opinion.

On a board like this (not Detailer specific), most opinions should be questioned as this thread proves.

I respect your work in the business, but i would challenge anyone that I could remove said defect faster and better by hand than anyone with a D/A could. You could use a PTG to prove my point.
I truly believe that, but numerous people argue the fact. You just can't win.
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:21 PM   #30
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In a skilled operators hand, yes I agree.



This I do not agree with, sorry. If you leave the paint uneven after polishing this small paint defect... take it to a pro, period. Use the proper applicator by hand and that will be removed in less than 5 mins. You couldn't even tape off the area and plug in the D/A in twice that amount of time.

I'll finish with this statement and it is not directed at anyone particular or in this thread but more to those reading this that have PM'd me at some point.
I get a lot of people PMing me for Detailing advice as most know that I have over 23 years in the business. They also ask why I don't post more in here with advice?
Well, It's because of threads like this. I try to give simple effective advice and every one else has a "better idea". If your methods work for you, so be it. I honestly don't have time to argue which is the best way.

My work and my name in the Detailing industry are proof positive I know what I am giving advice on.

Seth
Because someone has a difference in opinion, they are wrong? I find that a poor excuse to not post in a section because someone has a difference in opinion.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:59 AM   #31
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Because someone has a difference in opinion, they are wrong? I find that a poor excuse to not post in a section because someone has a difference in opinion.
Again, it's not the different opinions, in fact I'm always willing and able to learn.
ANYONE who knows me will testify to my humbleness and willingness to teach and help.

And for me personally as I'm not a confrontational type of person, it just isn't worth it.

It always turns into this and turns us Pros away. It's simple as that.
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:08 AM   #32
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:08 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by SSTG View Post
Again, it's not the different opinions, in fact I'm always willing and able to learn.
ANYONE who knows me will testify to my humbleness and willingness to teach and help.

And for me personally as I'm not a confrontational type of person, it just isn't worth it.

It always turns into this and turns us Pros away. It's simple as that.
It's disappointing, it's always nice to have different voices here in the detailing section.

I believe the shit storms come from people that refuse to accept that other people are entitled to their own opinion just like they do, whether they want to agree or not.
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:00 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by JTruck View Post
It's disappointing, it's always nice to have different voices here in the detailing section.

I believe the shit storms come from people that refuse to accept that other people are entitled to their own opinion just like they do, whether they want to agree or not.
Agreed now let's all and sing kumbaya
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:23 PM   #35
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You'll find that butting heads (when it comes to detailing) is commonplace on the internet.

We all know what works for each of us, so agree to disagree and move on.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:16 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSTG View Post
In a skilled operators hand, yes I agree.
I disagree, a standard free spinning DA is easy to use, you have an on/off switch and a speed setting, the higher speeds for compounding, middle speeds for polishing, low speeds for wax/glaze and spreading.

The only real basic skill is learning to apply the proper pressure to break down the compound or polish so it does it's job, and using slow enough arm speed to remove the defect over the entire area it encompasses.

Advanced skill would be the ability to look at a defect and know exactly what pad/polish is needed to remove it using least aggressive pad/polish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSTG View Post
Use the proper applicator by hand and that will be removed
You may be able to do this, I've tried it and found I cannot, my paint is just too hard. I've also found that a scratch this long can have different depths in it, some places in it may require wet sanding. Hopefully this won't be the case for the OP. But if it is, wetsanding is not a hard thing to do.

Anyway I think with a PC and the right pad/polish the OP will do just fine.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:38 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07 View Post
Same reason I don't post much publicly anymore either.
I haven't gotten any advice from you that produced negative results, I don't take it personally if your advice differs from what I think, I try it, and if it's easier/more effective, which it usually is, I now have more time to work on keeping my car clean. Which having an un-garaged daily driver takes a lot of time. So by all means post to help others out.

You don't want me ridin' dirty do ya?
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:35 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
I haven't gotten any advice from you that produced negative results, I don't take it personally if your advice differs from what I think, I try it, and if it's easier/more effective, which it usually is, I now have more time to work on keeping my car clean. Which having an un-garaged daily driver takes a lot of time. So by all means post to help others out.

You don't want me ridin' dirty do ya?
+1 CD07 has written up things that have help me out quite a bit. I find it lowers the learning curve a bit, as well as an unbiased review on various products.
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:42 PM   #39
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Thanks everyone for all the advice.

I went to work on the scratch today, and probably got it down to about half of what it was. I don't want to go further than that, because I can't judge how deep it is into the clear coat, and I don't want to hit paint. Still, it's barely noticeable now. In fact, it's only noticeable if I look for it.

I started with a black pad and Meguiar's Ultimate Polish Pre-waxing Glaze. It's barely abrasive at all, but the bottle says "Eliminates fine swirl marks", and I already had it in the shop, so I gave it a try. Naturally, no results on the scratch, so I moved up to a white pad and M205, then switched to M105. I finally went for broke and used an orange pad with M105 and started seeing a difference. I probably spent about 40 minutes total on it, and am satisfied with what I've accomplished.

My first correction job! (thanks in part to you guys!)
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