SHURE-FIRE METHOD TO CURE BRAKE SQUEAL

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by franknbeans

So i just got my calipers back from powder coat... installed but didn't know about the bolts.. is this a 100% no go on reusing the bolts?

Originally Posted by SPCBA

pretty much...one use only...they are meant to stretch.

GM caliper bolts have been Torque to Yield (TTY) for over twenty years. Most GM Dealers have not yet seen that memo, nor has the enthusiast market. There are a handful of informed GM and independent service shops that do the job right, but they are in the minority.

Reusing the bolts will have no negative effect most of the time. Some of the time the caliper bolts come loose and fall out. A caliper stuck between the inner barrel of your wheel will sheer the control arm attachment points. A failure of this nature can be fatal and at the very least expensive.

The ONLY correct way to install a GM brake caliper is with NEW TTY bolts. If for some reason you cannot use a brand new TTY bolt use high temperature LocTite and the German technical spec gudentight.

[kmcd]

Originally Posted by snaphappy

Ha! Did some research, now I get it! I had never seen roller skates, pretty exotic to me.

I guess you figured it out. Those roller skates were supposed to cure the squeal after GM figured out that the added caliper weights weren't working. Unfortunately, they don't work either or you wouldn't be viewing this thread.

You should still be able to lube them up and fix your problem.

[Becca]

Originally Posted by snaphappy

Went to follow your procedure, check out my brakes, very different pads!

I just noticed that the other day between my old 2010 and my current 2011! I was wondering what the heck those were and if I can get rid or them or not. I wonder how long the squeal would stay away since I live on a dirt road. Last time I had it at the dealership I asked about the squeal and they said there wasn't anything they could do and it was dust and environment..... I work on trailers currently in my current shop so I'm not dumb and have torn apart and rebuilt several drum and disk brakes so it was hard not to laugh at them right then and there. May have to try this, and since everything else will be taken off might as well upgrade the suspension!

[camarosspower]

My brakes squeal but i dont think this will help. Mine squeal alot under hot temperature. (After braking at highspeeds

[SSteven]

Thank you for posting this. I replaced my stock rollerskates (front) and rear with Hawk ceramic and got the squealing at lower speeds. Did the Hawk procedure for bedding in and it fixed it for a day and back it came.

I used your procedure along with some new caliper bolts and rotors on the front and the noise went away. I also hand sanded the front pads down slightly due to the new rotors. I couldn't find the caliper grease you listed locally, so I used CRC full synthetic caliper grease from O'Reilys and it works great so far.

Been running several days like this including multiple trips around town and one longer roundtrip this weekend (~100 miles) with no squeaking!!

[Denis]

i didnt realize the caliper bolts were one time use...ill have to keep that in mind!

[SSteven]

The squeal came back, but wasn't as loud as before. In addition to the squeal, the Hawk ceramics didn't have the same stopping power as the stock pads. It wasn't a surprise, since I read other posts mentioning the lower stopping power. I decided to go back to my stock pads since they worked well and only had about 10k on them. Went back to my stock rotors (with new caliper bolts again) on the front after having them turned. Sanded the stock pads down with emory cloth too.

Still greased all the relevant parts down good like this tutorial shows, but I don't have any more squealing and I can stop better now.

This was an expensive and time consuming lesson for me between the Hawk Ceramic pads and new rotors on the front. I went ceramic because they worked well on previous non-performance cars and put off less visible dust. The added squeal and less stopping power wasn't a good trade off. I'll stick to semi metallic going forward and deal with the extra dust.

I'll probably sell the Hawks to another C5 member since they only have hardly any miles on them.

[Bo White]

there is no sure fire way of doing away with brake squeal. Too many variables of were squeal can come from only to just do things right in every part of the brake job but still no 100% fool proof way of no brake squeal over the long haul.

[brianko]

Nice writeup, kmcd...went all around with Hawk HPS (getting really tired of all the brake dust on my wheels), and now the squeal is gone!

It has been replaced with a rather pleasant monotonic tone of about 500 Hz at low speed/light braking. Guess that's better than the squealing.

I idly wonder if roughing up the rotors with 150-grit sandpaper like Hawk suggests would solve this new issue...

Update:

After a few days of driving around town all brake noise is now gone.

[BAD DAB]

I'm marking this post............for later use

[TX_ED_SS]

Great write up and I followed every step on my recent pad replacement but still had a terrible squeal. I was to the point of taking it to a brake shop when I thought I'd take one more look at everything. When I pulled the pads out again I noticed that the thin metal shim on the back of the pad was pulling away from the pad. I didn't realize the shim came off. This is where I had that ah ha moment. I pulled the shims off all the pads and lubed the backs of the pads, then put the shims back on the pads and lubed again. I threw it all together and took it for a drive. NO MORE SQUEAL!!
I hope this helps others having the same issue.

[Jasper]

Anybody ever give KY Jelly a try? You never know......

[Hardymon]

How much lube would I need to make it look like a 2 year old did all 4 corners?

[BAD DAB]

Marking post