07-01-2013, 05:29 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 493
|
CCB Burnishing
Will the Z/28 require the same CCB burnishing process as the ZR-1?
|
07-01-2013, 07:01 PM | #2 |
Drives: Subaru Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ct.
Posts: 573
|
Whats the process with the ZR1?
__________________
Time for a new ride soon....6th Gen or 5th Gen Z28? Hmmm....
|
07-01-2013, 08:08 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 493
|
This is from page 9-7 from the 2013 Owner's manual:
Z06 with Z07 and ZR1 Performance Package Brake Burnish Procedure Notice: These procedures are specific to the Z06 and ZR1 Performance Package with ceramic brake rotors. These procedures should not be run on other Corvette models as damage may result. Notice: The new vehicle break‐in period should be completed before performing the brake burnish procedure or damage may occur to the powertrain/engine. See New Vehicle Break-In on page 9‑16. When performed as instructed, these procedures will not damage the brakes. During the burnishing procedure, the brake pads will smoke and produce an odor. The braking force and pedal travel may increase. After the procedure is complete, the brake pads may appear white at the rotor contact. Street High Performance Brake Burnishing Procedure Run this procedure in a safe manner and in compliance with all local and state ordinances/laws regarding motor vehicle operation. Run this procedure only on dry pavement. 1. From a stop, accelerate as rapidly as possible without activating traction control to a speed of 97 kph (60 mph). 2. Use enough pedal force to completely stop the vehicle in four to five seconds. If ABS activates, braking is too hard. 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2, five times. This should take about 10 minutes. 4. After completing the 50 stops, cool the brakes by driving for 8 km (5 mi) at 97 kph (60 mph). As with all high performance brake systems, some amount of brake squeal is normal. iirc - there is also a separate track day burnishing procedure. When I did this, it was hard to find a place to safely do it; I was worried about being pulled over by the police; smoke billowed out of the wheel wells. Mine was a 2010, and the owner's manual said if I didn't complete all the steps within a certain timeframe, I had to start over from scratch. edit - the ZR1s were also shipped with blue foam protectors that are supposed to be put on the rotors when removing/installing the wheels to protect the rotors fom accidental contact/nick from the wheel. Last edited by Combover; 07-02-2013 at 10:06 AM. |
07-02-2013, 07:06 PM | #4 |
Drives: Subaru Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ct.
Posts: 573
|
Interesting....I assume it would be the same deal with the Z.
__________________
Time for a new ride soon....6th Gen or 5th Gen Z28? Hmmm....
|
07-02-2013, 07:21 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 493
|
One other note -- the rotors were blamed for steering wheel vibration at about 70 mph. Many owners complained, however I did not experience the vibration in mine.
|
08-03-2013, 08:19 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Dubai
Posts: 757
|
i hated that procedure, I initially didnt know about it and almost crashed into a round about cause the brakes werent stopping me, long story...
__________________
1150bhp Whipple 4.0 Supercharged 427ci Camaro ZL1 |
08-03-2013, 09:46 PM | #7 |
Drives: Camaro's, always have, always will. Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Home of the brave
Posts: 4,851
|
...there is a beak in process for the brakes that should have been done early on, and it is in the manual, and specific in nature for the ZL1....I imagine it will be the same for the Z/28, once everything is announced. No ones knows much about anything in specific terms about the Z/28 right now, it's all generalities.
__________________
In Scott We Trust...all others must show proof.
|
08-04-2013, 10:55 AM | #8 |
Drives: Subaru BRZ, Porsche Boxster Spyder Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: California
Posts: 67
|
All brakes meant to be used in a performance environment, CCB or not, should be bedded/seasoned properly. The recommended techniques are similar to what is described above for many rotors/pads out there. Yes, it's a pain, but not unique to CCB.
|
08-04-2013, 11:33 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2021 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2013
Location: San Diego, CA.
Posts: 457
|
Okay step 3 says do steps 1, and 2 five (5) times. Then step 4 says "after completing the 50 stops" Where did the 50 suddenly come from. That's 10 times what it says to do in step 3. Has anyone verified this?
|
08-04-2013, 11:37 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Dubai
Posts: 757
|
what i know if you drive to 60mph and brake to almost zero without letting ABS kick in, and you do this 50 times consecutively. Then drive the car for 10 miles without using the brakes as much as possible for them to cool. Then if the car will be used on a roadcourse there was an additional procedure to be done at the track.
One of the German ZR1 owners took his car to 300 and back to zero for 3 times consecutively not sure that was the best way but the trick is to get the brakes really hot for x amount of time to "cook" off the adhesives in the pad material otherwise it forms some kind of a boundary layer between the rotors and pads and what you feel is no brake force applied. I learnt the hard way, never had to bed in an iron rotor, unless you want to use them on the track right away perhaps?
__________________
1150bhp Whipple 4.0 Supercharged 427ci Camaro ZL1 |
08-04-2013, 12:43 PM | #11 |
Drives: Subaru BRZ, Porsche Boxster Spyder Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: California
Posts: 67
|
|
|
|
|
|