Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
TireRack
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > General Camaro Forums > Camaro ZL1 Forum - ZL1 Specific Topics


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 07-14-2015, 01:42 PM   #1
2013ZL1FUN
 
2013ZL1FUN's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Convertible A6 BRM
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Dayton Ohio Area
Posts: 240
ZL1 LSA Engine Break In

What really is the best way to break in these engines? Any thoughts from people who have experience in this area would be appreciated!
__________________
2013 ZL1 CONVERTIBLE BRM A6
OHIO
2013ZL1FUN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 01:51 PM   #2
winterboy8
 
winterboy8's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1 Blue Velvet Metallic
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 716
Check out this thread already on the site.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...t=engine+break
__________________
Roto-Fab CAI, ARH LT, SW 3" catback, JRE tune, Elite-2 CC, VMAX TB, Big Gulp, WW II relo, Lingenfelter S/C reservoir
winterboy8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2015, 02:11 PM   #3
p3jason
Allergic to stupid.
 
p3jason's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1 #957 M6 AGM & 1990 Z24
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 368
Send a message via Yahoo to p3jason
That and plenty more useful information here:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220554
__________________
p3jason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 08:57 AM   #4
SCHUSS
657 RWHP + 585 Torque
 
SCHUSS's Avatar
 
Drives: 13' HPE 700 ZL1, IOM vert, M6
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Windsor, CT
Posts: 1,108
Ohh boy here we go!

Drive it like you stole it!
__________________
11.36 @ 122.72 / 1.72 60'
SCHUSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 10:54 AM   #5
rjs2010SS
 
rjs2010SS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 AGM ZL1 BELLA*
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: VA
Posts: 372
I drove it like I would normally...
__________________
Roto Fab CAI, Roto Fab Big Gulp, Jokerz ported SC/Snout, LS7 TB ported, ATI Balancer, 28%(10") Lower Pulley, 2" Headers, No Cats,Forza 3way, E85 Flex Fuel sensor , ID850 injectors,, BTR Stage 3, Ron Davis HX, Mighty Mouse CC, APR Splitter, Aero Sports Concepts Splitter Kit, Showstoppers CarbonFiber wicker bill, MRR Wheels. 720rwhp/690tq on 93, 762rwhp E85.
2013 AGM ZL1 Bella*
2010 MGM Toyota Tacoma
2010 CGM SS (Traded)
1996 Black SS (Sold)
rjs2010SS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 12:09 PM   #6
HDRDTD


 
Drives: 2013 Triple Black ZL1 Vert M6 ECF
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Trenton, Michigan
Posts: 5,998
This is a HIGHLY debated topic. Rather that start tis topic all over again, search is your friend along with the threads mentioned above.

The short answer is, there is no clear answer.
HDRDTD is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 12:48 PM   #7
Whos_Drivin

 
Drives: '12 Camaro ZL1, '16 Silverado Z71
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Blaine, MN
Posts: 846
Short answer...I have not seen anyone make a direct correlation between break in method and any issues.

Long answer...just read those threads.
Whos_Drivin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2015, 01:37 PM   #8
AITI
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2015 LFX Auto
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: US of A
Posts: 280
Apex has a good thread going on this, but I will tell you almost all the ones that come in for excess oil consumption were driven easy during that critical 300-400 miles of first running. Apex has the GM tech instruction posted for replacement and crate engines. FAR different from the owners manual, but do as your comfortable. You bought the car, no one else.
AITI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2015, 09:51 AM   #9
winterboy8
 
winterboy8's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 ZL1 Blue Velvet Metallic
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 716
Quote:
Originally Posted by AITI View Post
Apex has a good thread going on this, but I will tell you almost all the ones that come in for excess oil consumption were driven easy during that critical 300-400 miles of first running. Apex has the GM tech instruction posted for replacement and crate engines. FAR different from the owners manual, but do as your comfortable. You bought the car, no one else.
What do you mean by "easy"? Do you know of some kind of correlation between the mileage and driving method that leads to oil consumption?
__________________
Roto-Fab CAI, ARH LT, SW 3" catback, JRE tune, Elite-2 CC, VMAX TB, Big Gulp, WW II relo, Lingenfelter S/C reservoir
winterboy8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2015, 10:04 PM   #10
MyRideIsHere
 
MyRideIsHere's Avatar
 
Drives: 98 z28, 13 LS, 14 SS, 14 ZL1
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Indiana
Posts: 109
How about everything/anything works for 99% of engines?

If you have a great engine 10k in, why wouldn't you think that the way you "broke it in" was the "right" way. I have "broken-in" 3 Gen 5 engines. The LFX used oil early on and gradually normalized at a quart of oil per 4000 miles. The LS3 and LSA were great from the git-go, essentially no consumption when changed at 33%.

Gave ENGINE break-in no thought at all for all 3. Tried to be easy on the gears for the MT, though...
MyRideIsHere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 11:37 AM   #11
rcandiloro
 
rcandiloro's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 Z/28 AGM
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 389
Lots of discussion on proper break in and also the 1500 mile oil change, which isn't written anywhere. A lot of guys do it for peace of mind, which is fine, but I didn't. I followed the manual. Take it easy (no higher than 4000 rpm or 80mph) for first 1500 miles. Vary engine speed as much as possible for the first 1500 miles. First oil change at 7500 miles. I have 21000 miles on my DD and it hasn't hiccuped once. Runs perfect. I take it to the dealer for each oil change. Nothing cosmic, these aren't Ferrari's. I find it funny that folks do stuff outside what's recommended, like changing the oil at 1500 miles (to catch anything that might have gotten into the oil from a new engine.....which there is no evidence of), but again, to each his own and if it makes you feel better then do it. If you follow the recommendations, change the oil when you're supposed to then the car will run fine. If it doesn't then it's under warranty and GM will fix it.
rcandiloro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 01:39 PM   #12
vicnkathy
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NY
Posts: 536
It is in the owners manual.
vicnkathy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 04:41 PM   #13
AITI
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2015 LFX Auto
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: US of A
Posts: 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by winterboy8 View Post
What do you mean by "easy"? Do you know of some kind of correlation between the mileage and driving method that leads to oil consumption?
On older engines back in the day, they came with a special "break-in" oil that it was critical to baby it for the first 1000 miles as it provided just enough protection for the bearings and other internals, but had an easily penetrated protective film that allowed the rings to quickly abrade to the cylinder walls for proper seating (wear-in). Since the 90's though, car buyers do not want to be bothered with an oil change that soon so factory fills with with the oil it recommends you run all the time, so it makes it hit or miss if you follow owners manual and drive easy as by the time you have 200-300 or so miles on a very hard glaze forms on the cylinder walls and that brief window for the rings to seat properly has passed and cannot be done again w/out tear down and cutting the glaze and a new cross-hatch pattern again.

That is why the incidence of excessive oil consumption has become so widespread with new cars and light trucks (any engine builder can attest to the seating and glaze forming) as this allows excessive blow-by and allows more oil to be drawn past the rings and be burned.

The instructions we as GM techs get with replacement or crate engines instructs us to do a near full throttle run when new to 4500-5000 RPMS and then engine brake back down to load the rings properly and evenly and this seats then generally in 2-3 runs like that (I go higher) and rarely do we ever see these use oil. GM claims 1 qt every 1500-2000 mile is "acceptable" but no way. Just do a google search on a Ferrari, Lambo, or any supercar to see they seat the rings on both engine dyno and chassis dyno run to redline and engine brake down and then many also do it on a road course to check the rest of the mechanics before delivery. These mass produced cars are sent out w/out any break-in so it is all up to you the new owner. If you already have 500 miles or more on that window has passed so run it as you choose, but Apex has posted the the very instructions we get in their thread on break-in so read it and choose. Also, ask any reputable engine builder and you will get the same answer:

From motorcycles to trucks...any internal combustion engine:

https://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceT..._procedure.htm

http://classracer.com/classforum/showthread.php?t=48975









http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...ee-horsepower/

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

ANd a ton more.....but read the Apex thread and then ask yourself....why would GM give their techs different instructions than the average car buyer?

But the bottom line is this, you paid for your car and you should follow whatever your comfortable with. Most will ignore the experts and many do just fine following the owners manual, but rarely will you ever find someone that did it the way listed and regret it. More power, longer life, and no oil use.
AITI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2015, 06:12 PM   #14
Stephen12ZL1


 
Stephen12ZL1's Avatar
 
Drives: '17 ZL1 A10
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mechanicsville VA
Posts: 5,222
break-in for the engine is not an issue. This is for the other load bearing parts such as the transmission gear and rear. My feeling is that manufacturers only list a break-in to prevent stupid situations like full throttle clutch drops off the showroom floor and similar situations. My ZL1 was at the dragstrip with 500 miles on it and was a non-oil burner. Honestly, it was one of the most durable drivetrains I have ever owned.
__________________
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:07.59 VIR Full 11.08@126.52 1.76
'15 Z/28 #325 black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
Stephen12ZL1 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.