[MackSteelPrivateEye]

If they are backing out, then why did GM not just put a cotter pin in it? Cotter pins have been used to hold the hubs in place forever. Why did they stop now?

[Hellphyre]

Hi, all!

I went ahead and checked my axle nuts today. Passenger-side axle nut was fine (factory marks lined-up). Driver-side back out five-degrees (about half the width of the marker). I went ahead and tightened it. Best I could do was a breaker bar (no impact tool used).

I have a 2019 ZL1 with 2500 miles. I do track days and spirited driving.

[carguy55]

One of mine looked a little off the blue mark. I checked and it was torqued to at least 200. This tells me the mark can be a little off or they're torqued higher than 200

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by carguy55

One of mine looked a little off the blue mark. I checked and it was torqued to at least 200. This tells me the mark can be a little off or they're torqued higher than 200

That is good to know, mine was slightly off it's mark as well, maybe 10° or so, going to check them at next oil change (1500 total miles)...

[2K16SummitSS]

Originally Posted by 2K16SummitSS

I had a warranty claim for this issue a couple years ago. They claimed the noise was 'corrosion on the axles', but my suspicion is the nut was loose. Here we are in the present and the exact noise has reappeared, along with a bit of drivetrain slop. Car is far out of warranty now, but at least it should be an easy fix. I'm sure the dealership didn't replace the nut, and if it's TTY then that would explain why it backed off again. I will look into replacement for both sides just in case.

Coming back to this. I confirmed not only did the dealership re-use the original axle nuts, but instead of torquing them to spec they tightened it down to flush and attempted to crimp the heads into the grooves of the stud The idiots did at least re-mark so I could see their crimp method was garbage and both had backed out about 1/8th turn.

Such a night and day difference for such a cheap part replacement. Glad I got to it before something really broke.

[appleman22]

Originally Posted by 2K16SummitSS

Coming back to this. I confirmed not only did the dealership re-use the original axle nuts, but instead of torquing them to spec they tightened it down to flush and attempted to crimp the heads into the grooves of the stud The idiots did at least re-mark so I could see their crimp method was garbage and both had backed out about 1/8th turn.

Such a night and day difference for such a cheap part replacement. Glad I got to it before something really broke.

Right? Isn't it crazy the difference it makes when you tighten them up?

[2K16SummitSS]

Originally Posted by appleman22

Right? Isn't it crazy the difference it makes when you tighten them up?

Absolutely 'nuts' .... But seriously, I didn't realize just how much of a problem it really was. Kinda snuck up on me over time, like the frog in a pot of boiling water thing I suppose

[carguy55]

per service manual:
If you replace them:

Tighten the NEW torque prevailing wheel drive shaft nut to 185 lb ft.

Do NOT reuse wheel drive shaft nut.

[Walnutbear]

Originally Posted by MackSteelPrivateEye

Is their a TSB for this?

I'm not to keen on the acronyms here. Could someone please tell me what TBS means?
Also Is the correct torque spec.on my zl1 185 or 200 ft lbs? I've seen 2 different #'s posted here?
Also, is the torque prevailing wheel drive shaft nut supposed to be (maintained)?, because of the wheel bearings changing their initial specifications due to wear ?
Are the wheel bearings lesser quality, making this condition?
Or possibly faulty Nuts ?
I am bye no means an expert,so pardon me if I sound like a fool?

I hope I didn't make a big mistake buying my ride! This problem alone is making me nervous. I've had old used cars from 60's,70's,that never had this problem. This could be fatal for someone.
Never would I have guessed that my dream car, that I was finally able to purchase by sacrificing so much,could possibly have such an unnecessary problem, easily fixable, but potentially detrimental for myself. I am a huge fan of technology, But c'mon, man this is shameful in my opinion. I will check mine out when I get a chance.
I didn't even get things I need yet in order to jack it up! (1600 miles)
Thanks All for the great info!
Thank goodness for this forum!
Brian from Lancaster County Pa.

[JCunningham]

the 2017 factory shop manual says 185lbft. It seams to me that they were not properly torqued from the factory. Some loctite 272 should probably be put on these for now on.

[HDRDTD]

Originally Posted by Walnutbear

I'm not to keen on the acronyms here. Could someone please tell me what TBS means?
Also Is the correct torque spec.on my zl1 185 or 200 ft lbs? I've seen 2 different #'s posted here?
Also, is the torque prevailing wheel drive shaft nut supposed to be (maintained)?, because of the wheel bearings changing their initial specifications due to wear ?
Are the wheel bearings lesser quality, making this condition?
Or possibly faulty Nuts ?
I am bye no means an expert,so pardon me if I sound like a fool?

I hope I didn't make a big mistake buying my ride! This problem alone is making me nervous. I've had old used cars from 60's,70's,that never had this problem. This could be fatal for someone.
Never would I have guessed that my dream car, that I was finally able to purchase by sacrificing so much,could possibly have such an unnecessary problem, easily fixable, but potentially detrimental for myself. I am a huge fan of technology, But c'mon, man this is shameful in my opinion. I will check mine out when I get a chance.
I didn't even get things I need yet in order to jack it up! (1600 miles)
Thanks All for the great info!
Thank goodness for this forum!
Brian from Lancaster County Pa.

TSB = Technical Service Bulletin

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by Walnutbear

I'm not to keen on the acronyms here. Could someone please tell me what TBS means?
Also Is the correct torque spec.on my zl1 185 or 200 ft lbs? I've seen 2 different #'s posted here?
Also, is the torque prevailing wheel drive shaft nut supposed to be (maintained)?, because of the wheel bearings changing their initial specifications due to wear ?
Are the wheel bearings lesser quality, making this condition?
Or possibly faulty Nuts ?
I am bye no means an expert,so pardon me if I sound like a fool?

I hope I didn't make a big mistake buying my ride! This problem alone is making me nervous. I've had old used cars from 60's,70's,that never had this problem. This could be fatal for someone.
Never would I have guessed that my dream car, that I was finally able to purchase by sacrificing so much,could possibly have such an unnecessary problem, easily fixable, but potentially detrimental for myself. I am a huge fan of technology, But c'mon, man this is shameful in my opinion. I will check mine out when I get a chance.
I didn't even get things I need yet in order to jack it up! (1600 miles)
Thanks All for the great info!
Thank goodness for this forum!
Brian from Lancaster County Pa.

Brian,

Don't freak out about this, I think it is an issue, but not a MAJOR issue... (I haven't heard of anyone losing a wheel over this)... I would check them and keep an eye on things but don't lose sleep over it...

I too bought my dream car (2020 2SS), there are always going to be some issues with every car, none are perfect... Fortunately we have a resource such as this to learn from others and keep up on information to help us improve our rides!

(at 1,600 miles, I hope you have already changed your oil and diff fluid at LEAST once! (mine is getting ready for it's second change and I am at 1,460 miles (40 miles to go!)))

[Walnutbear]

Originally Posted by HDRDTD

TSB = Technical Service Bulletin

Ahh,thanks HDRDTD

[Walnutbear]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Brian,

Don't freak out about this, I think it is an issue, but not a MAJOR issue... (I haven't heard of anyone losing a wheel over this)... I would check them and keep an eye on things but don't lose sleep over it...

I too bought my dream car (2020 2SS), there are always going to be some issues with every car, none are perfect... Fortunately we have a resource such as this to learn from others and keep up on information to help us improve our rides!

(at 1,600 miles, I hope you have already changed your oil and diff fluid at LEAST once! (mine is getting ready for it's second change and I am at 1,460 miles (40 miles to go!)))

Thank you sir, 2sscapt I oil change done. Next is scheduled for both?
I will keep in mind what you have said.