Z28 launch control

[YOLO Z/28]

All this is good info. I will try the PTM 3 or hold the button for 7 seconds. I wasn't sure if it totally defeated all the aids doing that or if I still needed to adjust the PTM settings.

I've been cutting 2.2 60' even with the car stalling, then running a 8.40 1/8th mile. I should be good to hit 1.9-2.0 60' times if it didn't stall. Only problem is its supposed to rain Friday and Saturday night here in TN so I probably won't be able to do anything until next week. This car is a garage queen. I won't bring it out if there's a chance of rain.

[The_Raging_Bull]

D2M thanks, I was going to post that. The same thing as the older C6Z06, holding down button # 3 for 5 seconds leads to nirvana where burnouts are allowed all day...watch out for curbs, trees , and little kids...

of course its just the single button in the older Z06...Gosh you gotta love the engineers at Chevy

[D2M]

The whole system is kinda confusing at first. I guess you can classify it in 3 segments. 2 default modes, 5 PTM modes, and all off. So a total of 8 traction settings, 3 buttons . Lol.

[The_Raging_Bull]

to my knowledge no one has done this in the Z/28; but for the '09 Z06 a corvette forum member posted a way to upgrade the launch control of the 09 to the 2010 to 2013 corvette launch control. Perhaps I'll ask him if its possible to do anything like that for us Z/28 owners.

follow this URL to see his Christmas gift one year to C6 Z06 owners (had to be an '09) where he reprogrammed an 2010 ECM and EBCM to have the full on launch control

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-holy-and.html

[YOLO Z/28]

Finally, got to the track last night to test some things others shared on here. So, I was definitely wrong about the NLS. This car definitely doesn't have it, I'm just a flat foot/power shifting fool. That said, holding the TCS button down for 7 seconds did turn everything off and my times went from 8.45 @88mph (1/8th) to 8.03 @89mph (see attached time slip)

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by '14RedHotZ

Finally, got to the track last night to test some things others shared on here. So, I was definitely wrong about the NLS. This car definitely doesn't have it, I'm just a flat foot/power shifting fool. That said, holding the TCS button down for 7 seconds did turn everything off and my times went from 8.45 @88mph (1/8th) to 8.03 @89mph (see attached time slip)

give us some launch help...that 1.85 is spectacular. Did you slip the clutch and what rpm did you launch?

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

give us some launch help...that 1.85 is spectacular. Did you slip the clutch and what rpm did you launch?

2000-2200 RPM launch. Definitely slip the clutch (about 1 foot of roll out). Worst 60's I cut all night were in the 1.9's. If you dump the clutch, the car bogs too much.

That said, Stephen12ZL1, you've cut a 1.55 in your old car... not sure if youre quizing me, but you should know how it all works haha.

[4 FN 27]

The only way you will get max improvement on your 60 foot times is to change out the clutch for a multi disk "slipper clutch". It will take some time to find the sweet spot for the "Base" and "Counter". Tons of maintenance and having a date recorder catching RPM's at the crankshaft and drive shaft will help shorten up the learning curve (ie Racepak).

We took our 60 foots from the 1.02-1.04 times down to .97's by reading the data and making changes.

Here is one of my slower runs:

60ft-0.995 sec., 330ft-2.824, 660ft-4.352/161.42mph, 1,000ft-5.670, 1320ft 6.779/202.97

6 Inch Ace Triple Disk Titanium Clutch. 3 new disks every pass. You will also need some sort of ignition control so you can set the launch RPM so once staged you hold the throttle wide open the motor goes to XXXX RPM and stays there until a switch senses the clutch pedal has been released and then the motor can go to the moon.

Another thing to add is a shift light so you can shift when the light comes on. Put it directly in your line of sight. See the light, move the arm. The date recorder will tell you how close you were to your actual shift points. Accuracy is critical. the Counterweight is directly effected by the engine RPM. Shift late and the counter is too much and the clutch bites harder causing the tires to break loose. Shift to soon and the clutch will slip too much loosing ET.

But again this is a ton of work since you have to adjust everything from the bottom of the car. My car was built to change out everything needed in 30 minutes or less.

It is a little much for a Z28 but you will make significant progress at the front half of the track which is worth almost double at the other end as far as Et goes. MPH will remain about the same or in some cases slightly less because you have less time to build up speed.

An 8 or 10 inch double disk will last you a weekend of racing once you find the sweet spot. Logging the data for every run based on atmospheric conditions will help you make better clutch tuning decisions as you go.

I miss my old Race Car. I took my 2013 427 Vette to the track. Made a pass and I had to look down at the tach to see if it was running when it left the line. Made 3 passes and went home. It just wasn't the same. I could have made a sandwich on those passes.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by '14RedHotZ

2000-2200 RPM launch. Definitely slip the clutch (about 1 foot of roll out). Worst 60's I cut all night were in the 1.9's. If you dump the clutch, the car bogs too much.

That said, Stephen12ZL1, you've cut a 1.55 in your old car... not sure if youre quizing me, but you should know how it all works haha.

the ZL1 was an A6 so I just wanted to hear what worked for you at the track. Thanks for the info!!!

[YOLO Z/28]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

the ZL1 was an A6 so I just wanted to hear what worked for you at the track. Thanks for the info!!!

Oh, yeah... i forgot the high performance cars come in Automatics now. Any time though! That's why we're apart of these forums! Thank you for your insight on the car. I never should have doubted when you said these cars don't have NLS!!!