Fog lights on with high beams?

[spadz93]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

It's not about whether anybody else sees the lights, who they might be if they do, or what it looks like even if nobody else sees it.

It is about having the road ahead of you fully illuminated, even up close, when you're running the high beams. Lots of high beam arrangements really aren't all that good up close.

It's strictly about function, with matters of lighting as used for appearance/dress-up being completely irrelevant. Why is that so hard to understand?

Then again, maybe it really is that hard to understand if you're one of those people who think that darkened/intentionally obscured vehicle lighting is a good enough appearance idea that the obvious disadvantages don't matter.


Norm

Norm, you are a gentleman. Thanks for the backup

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[DvKillar]

Originally Posted by spadz93

Norm, you are a gentleman. Thanks for the backup

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I agree with you both. the lights are there for a reason. I miss having any on my current ride. and after a recent blowout due to debris I didn't see in time, I miss them even more!

[Grandpa'sSS]

OP- gen5diy has a harness, ITL-FOG that will work for you.

[rshelar]

Originally Posted by EMB135Driver

Have a friend who is a Police Officer....just told me about a traffic accident he responded to last week. An SUV rear ended a Mustang that had its tail lights blacked out....Driver said she never saw the brake lights ahead. Long story short, the Mustang guy got a ticket and his insurance will most likely be paying for her damage as the taillight had been deliberately modified to be less visible.....probably not the same everywhere, but my buddy seems confident the Mustang guy will be paying.

The Mustang may also lose his insurance due to the illegal mod leading to the "at fault" accident. They play by their own rules!


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[spadz93]

I found a small electronics store that had a massive selection of diodes, including 10 amp ones that should be able to take the heat crossing over the two fuses in the fuse block. I picked up a couple so I could run them in parallel to divide the current between multiple diodes and keep heat down. Figure at a buck a pop, worst that'll happen is I'll blow a fuse

[Spurshot]

I won't get into the argument on why you'd want fogs on with high beams. I wanted it for control of a relay to switch a driving/off-road light circuit. So, I devised a diode installation for my K2 pickup to allow the fogs to stay on when the high beams were commanded. Very simple and took only a few minutes to install. You can find it on the GM-Trucks forum for K2 modifications, where it's pinned to the top. I haven't found a reason to do it to my Camaro yet. You can use a small diode. The circuit is just a relay signal, not power. I found schematics on the GM upfitter website.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topi...th-high-beams/

[spadz93]

Originally Posted by Spurshot

I won't get into the argument on why you'd want fogs on with high beams. I wanted it for control of a relay to switch a driving/off-road light circuit. So, I devised a diode installation for my K2 pickup to allow the fogs to stay on when the high beams were commanded. Very simple and took only a few minutes to install. You can find it on the GM-Trucks forum for K2 modifications, where it's pinned to the top. I haven't found a reason to do it to my Camaro yet. You can use a small diode. The circuit is just a relay signal, not power. I found schematics on the GM upfitter website.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topi...th-high-beams/

The problem here is that there is a lack of documentation on where the relay signal wires would be for these lights. I would imagine them being in the BCM but all of the wiring diagrams do not show which wire it would be, if it were there at all. This was a similar case with my old Trailblazer SS, as it could be achieved easily by crossing a diode over two wires coming from the BCM. Until those wires are found, it would appear that using beefy diodes to accomplish the task is the only solution. I'll be testing this at lunch to verify.

[spadz93]

Tested my theory. So far it works, but the diodes get quite hot to the touch, enough to burn me. I only twisted two together (so a parallel layout, this allows for current division among equal components). The diodes in mention are marked 10a10-bp. Searching that marking will bring you to a few places where you can buy them. I'm going to try adding a third (and maybe even a fourth) to the twist to see if heat generation gets a little lower, as I'm sure they will fail or damage something being in a hot engine bay. Also going to pick up a few add-a-fuses to make this a little cleaner

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[Spurshot]

Originally Posted by spadz93

The problem here is that there is a lack of documentation on where the relay signal wires would be for these lights. I would imagine them being in the BCM but all of the wiring diagrams do not show which wire it would be, if it were there at all. This was a similar case with my old Trailblazer SS, as it could be achieved easily by crossing a diode over two wires coming from the BCM. Until those wires are found, it would appear that using beefy diodes to accomplish the task is the only solution. I'll be testing this at lunch to verify.

Just from memory a couple years old now, I think it's simply the high beam signal and the fog signal, that you join with the diode. These signals go to the relays in your "fuse panel". They do not carry the draw current of the fog or headlights.

[spadz93]

Originally Posted by Spurshot

Just from memory a couple years old now, I think it's simply the high beam signal and the fog signal, that you join with the diode. These signals go to the relays in your "fuse panel". They do not carry the draw current of the fog or headlights.

Yes, but like I mentioned, there is no documentation on where to find these wires, or whether they are carried over can-bus or analog signal

[spadz93]

Tried adding a few more diodes to the equation to balance the load, and it had no effect on temperatures. Found a new model of diode online that far exceeds the power ratings of what I am working with but also remains small in form factor, so I will be trying this soon. Model number is STTH3010.

Just gonna keep updating this thread so that in the event another DIYer comes along and wants to do this, they will have the information.

[Spurshot]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54270
Looks like a diode jumper from BCM connector X5, wire 18, to X5, 10. Current flow toward X5, 10. When I did this on my truck, I simply slid the diode leads into the back of the BCM connectors. Took maybe a few minutes with needle nose pliers.

You should be able to confirm these functions with a continuity light or meter before connecting them.

The following pix are from my 2014 truck and schematics for that truck. I suspect the BCM and connector identity is the same layout, but have not confirmed. Use it as a guide to locate the circuits with a meter. I think connector X5 will still be the brown one on the Camaro. Pin locations will likely be the same. But check with a meter while functioning the fogs and high beams.

The first pic is the back of the X5 brown connector to the BCM showing the diode installation. The second pic is the connector schematic pin arrangement from the manual, which has been flipped upside down and mirror imaged so it matches what you see when you look at the BCM connectors like the picture above it, which will aid in location of pin 18 and 10.

[spadz93]

Originally Posted by Spurshot

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54270
Looks like a diode jumper from BCM connector X5, wire 18, to X5, 10. Current flow toward X5, 10. When I did this on my truck, I simply slid the diode leads into the back of the BCM connectors. Took maybe a few minutes with needle nose pliers.

You should be able to confirm these functions with a continuity light or meter before connecting them.

The following pix are from my 2014 truck and schematics for that truck. I suspect the BCM and connector identity is the same layout, but have not confirmed. Use it as a guide to locate the circuits with a meter. I think connector X5 will still be the brown one on the Camaro. Pin locations will likely be the same. But check with a meter while functioning the fogs and high beams.

The first pic is the back of the X5 brown connector to the BCM showing the diode installation. The second pic is the connector schematic pin arrangement from the manual, which has been flipped upside down and mirror imaged so it matches what you see when you look at the BCM connectors like the picture above it, which will aid in location of pin 18 and 10.

Good information here, gonna dive under there sometime this weekend maybe and see if there's anything to be found. I may also check the leads at the headlight switch for fog output as well as by the stalk for high beam output, that way I can at least find out if it's analog signal or can bus for whatever reason.

Alternatively, the last post in this thread indicates that he found the fog light output at the bcm but that it was a constant 12v... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488465

[Spurshot]

Originally Posted by spadz93

....

Alternatively, the last post in this thread indicates that he found the fog light output at the bcm but that it was a constant 12v... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488465

Then he clearly didn't locate the fog light switching signal circuit. It's a signal to switch a relay in the main power panel. He likely located the power supply to the relay.