[Val Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Rotors don't warp. It's uneven pad transfer layer. There's many reasons for this.

https://www.centricparts.com/media/t...c-8-2018_1.pdf

More brake info:

https://www.centricparts.com/technical-bulletins

Lol.
I have read this so many times. Great mostly applicable article.

3 sets of rotors AND pads later in 8 months....yes transfer and deposits are huge. Had the pre 19 FNC rotors turned and was told 3 out of the 4 were warped. All 3 sets have at some point resulted in serious shudder at all braking speeds. Ferodo and Hawk pads. Was running Motul 660, now SRF.

Welp. There went that idea.

Track days aren't kind and nor is spirited driving but as a late braker and someone who religiously beds pads I'm about to set my car on fire. I'm not here to hijack OPs thread I'm just here to say that yes imprinting and transfer is an issue but warping is yes indeed possible.

[He11bent]

Originally Posted by Sales@Phastek

I would say that this is a Caliper or Master Cylinder issue. Something is causing the calipers to keep to much pressure on the rotors causing overheating.

This.

[red_johnny]

Brining this back up as I am also having this issue. On the third set of rotors. Not my driving/braking causing this. Same as everyone else. After about 1,000 miles it comes back. Is replacing the hubs the solution? Drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads?

[cdb95z28]

To the guys who say it keeps coming back….,What kind of wheel cleaner do you use?

I found Meguier’s wheel cleaner ( and possibly others) in the purple bottle will eat away at the transfer layer. Obviously spraying wheel cleaner will not hit the entire rotor surface. So you end up will high and low transfer layer spots.

[Val Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by red_johnny

Brining this back up as I am also having this issue. On the third set of rotors. Not my driving/braking causing this. Same as everyone else. After about 1,000 miles it comes back. Is replacing the hubs the solution? Drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads?

I don't miss this nightmare....
Hopefully I was an isolated incident but after all that nonsense I never found a solution except...I upgraded to different calipers. After 3 sets of rotors, 3 sets of pads and different fluid I never got rid of the judder. I wasn't expecting different calipers to be the solution and that's not why I purchased them. It just so happened to be where I was at in my experience with HPDE and needing to upgrade. Since upgrading...it's been smooth sailing.

I feel your pain. I wish I could be of more help.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by red_johnny

Bringing this back up as I am also having this issue. On the third set of rotors. Not my driving/braking causing this. Same as everyone else. After about 1,000 miles it comes back. Is replacing the hubs the solution? Drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads?

Ceramic pads for sure.
If you are doing the work yourself you can probably pick up brand new rotors or get your old ones cut. Check prices. Drilled/slotted is probably overkill.
If i were replacing today, I'd probably get centrics off ebay for ~$100 each (front). Someone will flame me for that!

[red_johnny]

I might give the shop another chance and see what info I can pass to them to try. I dont buy 100% that the pads are the cause. Got to be something else causing it.

[CountySS]

I replaced a front set of rotors and it went away for a bit but came back in less than 1000 miles. I got mad and took mounted a dial indicator on the strut and measured runout on the new rotor and it was out by 75 thou, took rotor off and checked runout on husband it was 25 thou. Replaced that hub and problem went away. Just what happened to me.

[m6-lt1]

While I’m not happy to see others having this issue, I am happy to see it probably wasn’t my driving style and that I wasn’t crazy as my rotors would go bad in 1200 or less miles each time. I used it as an excuse to get a new car (had other reasons as well haha), but I truly believe replacing the hubs finally solved it. Only put on about 750 miles on the car after the repair but the car just seemed to drive smoother as well. As the guy above me did everyone having these issues needs to put a run out gauge on just the hub and see what it reads.

Mine was so rusty that unless you took a hammer and a chisel, it was not possible to remove the rust. No mechanic is going to take the time to chisel off the rust, they will just tell you they removed the rust.

[red_johnny]

Is there a particular hub you used? AC delco, MasterPro, Duralast, Precision?

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by red_johnny

Is there a particular hub you used? AC delco, MasterPro, Duralast, Precision?

AC Delco/oem. GM also had slightly revised the hub as it looked a little different versus what came off my 2016. Just an FYI oem/ac delco is made by SKF which is a good brand.

[red_johnny]

Cool, thanks

[red_johnny]

Replaced the hubs, over 1000 miles on them and the issue has NOT returned. All the other rotor replacements the braking issue would have returned by now. So as far as I am concerned, I think that fixed it. If anything pops back up with the rumbling while braking I will post back here.