BRAKE PROBLEMS

[SLY5ACE]

I HAVE a 2013 camaro ss 1le modded pushing 584 to the wheels, the last two times i have taken it to the race track i have boiled the brakes, literally front brakes smoking. i upgraded brake pads, rotors and to srf castrol brake fluid
continue to boil brakes. need help please. its not fun driving 135 up to a corner praying my brakes will work.

[Billy10mm]

Brakes are the weak point in this car. Those who are fast insist that brake ducting is necessary, and there are some caliper upgrades that you can do. CTS-V and ZL1 calipers are a great upgrade, and if I'm not mistaken, C7 Z06 calipers are also a direct bolt-on.

Its highly recommended that you use brand new pads on track days, as the thicker the pads are, the more they dissipate heat before it reaches the pistons and ultimately the fluid.

And 600 to the wheels isn't helping your problem. Big speed comes with big power and bigger brakes are needed for bigger speed. People with stock LS3s making ~390 to the wheels have brake cooling issues - you are going to have them worse.

[Nick S]

If you are going to do road course track days then I'd highly recommend AP Racing Pro-Radical 5000 set up. At minimum I'd convert to the GM 6-piston set up with C7 Corvette 6-piston calipers (because they have the ventilated pistons) and a good set of track pads with them. Ducting will also likely be needed. But it sounds like you have spent some good money on engine power, so that should be reciprocated by spending some good money on stopping power. Again I'd highly recommend AP Racing.

[markgws6]

Welcome to our world!

It's a real pity that the engineers did not drive these cars harder during initial testing to prove that additional cooling was mandatory on the 5th gen 1LEs and that our year is not easily modified to support the z/28 ducts. There are plenty of older threads on here about mods people have done for the ducts, either self made, or something like the quantum setup. Good luck!

[Camaro Dude]

I noticed that you also are using Z28 wheels and tires, so I'm assuming 305 Trofeo square setup.

This setup will DEF put the final nail in the coffin, for your OEM SS brakes!

[silverbullet415]

Time for the apracing kit and brake ducts

https://www.essexparts.com/essex-des...2mm-gen5camaro

Problem solved, I've been running them for three track days no with no issues and z28 ducts

[SLY5ACE]

OK THANKS GUYS FOR RESPONSE I HAVE NOT HEAR OF APRACING KITS, ARE THEY MUCH BETTER THEN GETTING CTSV CALIPERS AND ROTORS. THE REASON WHY IS I CAN GET THOSE FOR 1,000 BUCKS VS APRACING IS ALMOST 5K

[FKNGRSY]

What tracks are you running at? For the power you're making I would go AP if you can swing the $$$$

[SLY5ACE]

I just got done racing at autobahn joliet ILL and could only make it around the track 2 times before brakes boiled. then flushed went back out 2 more laps and boiled again sounds like the ap racing is the way to go but omg super expensive. i need brake duct work as well any ideas

[13coupe]

Get some air on them. Duct it in at the center of the rotor. The more the better.
Going to add these to my race car & see if they help too. Check out the video for the Ultra cool.
Another brand at Summit

[jksynergy]

cooling ducts, cooling ducts, cooling ducts. Do this first and see if that helps. Also, reading your other post about it, i'm not sure the pads are up to what you need. If you going to do more and more track days, invest in better pads.
I currently run Stop Tech slotted rotors, G-Loc pads, high temp fluid, stainless lines and cooling on the front rotors. I have had no issues with running at Putnam or NCM and in extreme heat conditions also. I've only boiled the fluid once but that was due to a car on track that was on fire and I got stuck behind him on a hill. I had to hold the brakes and that boiled the fluid. The cooling ducts will be the least expensive first step and see if that helps.