Cam question

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by havelegs

How bad is my cam? This is for an auto with a 3200 TC.

Looks like a wise choice. Wonder who's input made that call.
If I'm not mistaken half the bad manners will be removed with the Variable ValveTiming. It would be what I'd choose for a car with primary focus of street driving fun and not serious competition for a naturally aspirated DD car. Of course tuning is a requirement.


I would like the extra exhaust built into that cam because I'm running stock manifolds, is that why someone spec'd a rather large exhaust vs intake on that one? For supercharged application more lobe separation would be good for the street.

[havelegs]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Looks like a wise choice. Wonder who's input made that call.
If I'm not mistaken half the bad manners will be removed with the Variable ValveTiming. It would be what I'd choose for a car with primary focus of street driving fun and not serious competition for a naturally aspirated DD car. Of course tuning is a requirement.


I would like the extra exhaust built into that cam because I'm running stock manifolds, is that why someone spec'd a rather large exhaust vs intake on that one? For supercharged application more lobe separation would be good for the street.

The builder and someone from tsp specd it I believe. I went with a complete ls3 conversation, so no vvt. I really didn't notice any problem with low end torque, I also run 3.91.I have headers and stock intake manifold. Car runs pretty good, some small bucking after the TC locks up and while you're at a low rpm.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by CFD

Failed crush collars are not common, it's possible who ever set it up may have torqued it, checked clearances, made adjustments and re-used it. I've seen it before. It's hard to say even after inspection.

I've always lived by the rule, make as much power as possible, if everything is working right all will come down to tires and throttle control. Never shoot for a dead hook if you're making real power, something WILL BREAK. controlled tire spin is your friend.

Agree - I think it was an installer issue - you get what you pay for. I know better, but some times you make a desperation plea. The installer I have for the rear has been fantastic, and the Yukon's have held up well this season.

I understand the concept of how to setup the rear, get it shimmed, lash adjusted, but I feel there is a fair amount of art/finesse to that pinion preload piece that I think an experienced set of hands that does them every day has a much higher likelyhood of nailing than my "learning experience" hands would have. Although, 3 rebuilds later, I probably could have been building up my own skillset. Live and learn.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by havelegs

How bad is my cam? This is for an auto with a 3200 TC.

havelegs - that looks like a nice piece. 14.5* of overlap will be plenty noticeable, but it's nothing extreme and with good tuning should drive plenty nice, especially with an automatic behind it. Should make good power through the middle and pull nice up top with the stock manifold - probably will wanna shift around 7000 - with the stock manifold it'll be rolling over a bit by there. Dyno chart will show you where it wants to be run - but I would want to see it dyno'd out to at least 7000 so you know what it looks like past the peak (which will probably be like 6300).

[hotbuggies]

Looking at a texas speed Stage 2 cam swap (229/244 .629/.615) Any input? Pros/cons? tuning issues?

[acammer]

Originally Posted by hotbuggies

Looking at a texas speed Stage 2 cam swap (229/244 .629/.615) Any input? Pros/cons? tuning issues?

If you look at our conversation above we talked a lot about needing to have a well defined set of goals, and a well though out combination of parts to get there. So, it's hard to answer your question without information on what specifically you want to accomplish, and details on the rest of the setup on the car (intake, heads, motor size, exhaust, converter/clutch, gears, tires, etc).

In a very general sense with a more or less stock bottom end, stock heads, stock intake, bolt on car that's a reasonable camshaft that should yield pretty good results. Obviously you need the right valvetrain to support it. Also, the cars gearing should be adjusted to suit the new camshaft and the power curve it will produce, as well as torque converter if it's an auto car. It should drive very nicely with a good tune-up - 12.5* of overlap is plenty streetable. It's definitely not a max effort type of cam, but should be a good fit for a bolt on car looking for a nice pick-me-up without going wild.

[G8One2]

Once again, acammer hits the nail on the head. You have to plan out everything based on how your going to use the car. Keep in mind, the more you do, the more it's going to cost in supporting mods. How big is your wallet?

[Greenhornet2]

Well since there's accouple people in here that seem to be quite into cam selections. I am running a stock cam now. you can see in my signature what I have. I am going to add a fuel voltage booster from JRE. I am looking to get 700-725WHP and hopefully close to the same WTQ. I am going to talk with Jannety and will likely go with what he suggests when the time comes as he will be doing the Dynotune and did my last Dynotune. Just curious what you guys think. I will be getting springs and I think CHE Trunion kit. Not doing the oil pump, just going to cam swap it and get a 3bolt top gear. I am supercharged and like my streetability. I can cruise at 1100rpm in 6th if I want. I don't typically do that as I don't like the RPM that low but it doesn't buck and is very smooth. Cruising I tend to do in 5th around here at 50-55MPH at around 1700 RPM I only shift to 6th on the highway or if its down a hill at 50-55

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Well since there's accouple people in here that seem to be quite into cam selections. I am running a stock cam now. you can see in my signature what I have. I am going to add a fuel voltage booster from JRE. I am looking to get 700-725WHP and hopefully close to the same WTQ. I am going to talk with Jannety and will likely go with what he suggests when the time comes as he will be doing the Dynotune and did my last Dynotune. Just curious what you guys think. I will be getting springs and I think CHE Trunion kit. Not doing the oil pump, just going to cam swap it and get a 3bolt top gear. I am supercharged and like my streetability. I can cruise at 1100rpm in 6th if I want. I don't typically do that as I don't like the RPM that low but it doesn't buck and is very smooth. Cruising I tend to do in 5th around here at 50-55MPH at around 1700 RPM I only shift to 6th on the highway or if its down a hill at 50-55

Most PD (positive displacement cams are going to be of the negative overlap variety, and will drive pretty reasonably. My recommendation is to connect with GPI, and talk through your options. I like those guys because they have a fantastic product, and great service. Probably a GPI SS2 SC would fit that middle ground you seem to be looking for. I think you can see 700whp on a setup like that, you have the rest of the pieces in place. I like the bushed trunions as piece of mind, especially with heavier valve springs.

[havelegs]

Originally Posted by acammer

havelegs - that looks like a nice piece. 14.5* of overlap will be plenty noticeable, but it's nothing extreme and with good tuning should drive plenty nice, especially with an automatic behind it. Should make good power through the middle and pull nice up top with the stock manifold - probably will wanna shift around 7000 - with the stock manifold it'll be rolling over a bit by there. Dyno chart will show you where it wants to be run - but I would want to see it dyno'd out to at least 7000 so you know what it looks like past the peak (which will probably be like 6300).

Thanks. It's definitely noticable chop. Drivababilty is good, just a little surge at idle speed and some small bucking at 45mph, when the TC is locked and steady throttle. It was hand tuned by Pat G at his shop and I drove with him for drivability, so I feel the tune is dead on.
Here is the dyno from a mustang Dyno. I was hoping for a little more but it was very hot this day, 100f. Oh well, numbers are numbers.

Also I had this choice as well for a cam:

Stage 3 cam specs 231/246 629/615 112+3

But went with the smaller one, was concerned it would be too big to daily. Not sure if I made the correct choice and wonder how much more power the stage three cam would have put down.

[Greenhornet2]

I'd like a little lope as well though as that is just great sounding at idle lol.

[silversleeper]

@havelegs That cam is nearly identical to the one you have. A cam won't do what you are expecting it to do for you. It's not a free ride.
@greenhornet, the "stage 1" is about all you can do without starting to sacrifice maintenance-longevity and driveability. That isn't a huge hp gain from what you have. More boost and e85 are the answer to driveability + hp. I would do a strong stage 2 as suggested to make it worthwhile but from your priority of lower rpm manners that doesn't fit with my interpretation of your desires.

[Greenhornet2]

can't run E85 there's none around here. I am not expecting it to drive like stock I am ok with some sacrifice. I would like to be able to cruise in 5th tho, even if I have to pick up the pace a little is typically ok around here there isn't much for traffic around me. Jannetty recommended not going over 10PSI I am at a little over 9psi until it hits 6k then it bumps to 11psi. If with a PD cam my boost lowers a little I can change my pulley to get back to 10psi tho.