Diff Fluid "upgrade" Help Please

[Greenhornet2]

What matters is using the correct weight and having the limited slip additive. Other than that it's all pretty much the same stuff.

[Rock-It Man]

Originally Posted by Badbubba

Not sure what upgrading is about. Just replace with the correct lube. https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211013
I believe GM has an oil with the lsd additive already mixed in it. Just like a few other brands. But is it the correct amount? Probably has more in it than necessary. Thus it could cause the lsd diff to slip more. If your issue was really bad, it would cause the tire to squeal or hop. But even moaning means the lsd clutches are engaging/dragging and wearing.

The diff oil in the owners' manual is already formulated for LSD. Yet a friction modify is still called out.

Don't leave out the friction modifier. Yet again, you will still get the moan on sharp turns when cold.

[Moto-Mojo]

Between this thread, YouTube and others, I was inspired to change the diff oil today. (little under 18K miles) Years ago, on my LSD GM trucks, Amsoil gear lube negated the need for any additive. Fast Fwd to 2020. I bought an Amsoil squeeze bag -HIGHLY RECOMMEND- of 75W-90 but...their blurb on the back recommended their own LS additive. Of course, the parts store that sold the oil didn’t have their additive. So I used Redline’s.

Took the ol gal on a test run and didn’t leave a trail of gears or oil. Success.

[Cpt. Ray T]

Thanks guys for all the input. I went ahead and swung by the dealership and grabbed the AC Delco and additive they recommended. Dumped and replaced, and it is gone. I really appreciate it... On a side note, dang, I knew the dealership was always the least cost effective place to shop, but between the fluid and additive I was over 40 bucks. But what the heck, ain't like it gets done once a week. As for my driving, I don't race or get too crazy too often, more daily driving stuff with slightly harder takeoffs from stop signs and such just because, how do you drive one without doing that. lol

[coolcamaroZ28]

I also had this issue on my 2010 SS. The solution was to replace the axle seals and fluid as shown on PI1037E below, but depending on your build date it could also just be a software update

[frankwjr]

Originally Posted by davidscamaro

Bro no one said mobil 1 did not have fiction modifier in it.... just because you use mobil 1 does not mean other brands are rip offs

take shit personal much...bro?


PEACE

[Badbubba]

Great, certain lubes already have additive in it. Is it the correct amount for yours? They could add a bottle of additive, that would stop any howl. And for most people that just cruise around, that would be fine. But for those that really make the most of their car, it could present a problem. For those that don't know, the additive reduces friction. Too much and you won't get optimum lockup.

[frankwjr]

sum light reading...


What are Friction Modifiers?

Noria Corporation

Friction modifiers and mild anti-wear agents are polar molecules added to lubricants for the purpose of minimizing light surface contacts (sliding and rolling) that may occur in a given machine design. These are also called boundary lubrication additives.
Esters, natural and synthetic fatty acids as well as some solid materials such as graphite and molybdenum disulfide are used for these purposes. These molecules have a polar end (head) and an oil-soluble end (tail).
Once placed into service, the polar end of the molecule finds a metal surface and attaches itself. If you could see the orientation of the molecules on the surface, it would appear something like the fibers of a carpet, with each molecule stacked vertically beside the others.
As long as the frictional contact is light, these molecules provide a cushioning effect when one of the coated surfaces connects with another coated surface. If the contact is heavy, then the molecules are brushed off, eliminating any potential benefit of the additive.
When the machine designer anticipates more than light surface contact (from shock loading, for instance), then the designer would select a stronger type of friction modifier characterized as an anti-wear additive. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) is a common anti-wear agent. This type of additive literally reacts with the metal surface when the reaction energy (temperature) is high enough. The reaction layer provides sacrificial surface protection.
As the loading and metallic contact increase, the strength of the additive and reaction process increases. This leads to the use of sulfur-phosphorus based extreme pressure (EP) chemicals. The EP additives form organo-metallic salts on the loaded surfaces that serve as sacrificial films to protect against aggressive surface damage.
There are two main types of EP additives, those that are temperature-dependent, and those that are not. The most common temperature-dependent types include boron, chlorine, phosphorus and sulfur. They are activated by reacting with the metal surface when the temperatures are elevated due to the extreme pressure. The chemical reaction between the additive and metal surface is driven by the heat produced from friction.
Much like when you rub your hands together, as the metal surfaces come in contact with one another, there is heat generated by means of friction and pressure. In reacting with the metal surface, these additive types form new compounds such as iron chlorides, iron phosphides and iron sulfides (dependent upon which compound is used). The metal salts produce a chemical (soap-like) film that acts as a barrier to reduce friction, wear and metal scoring, and eliminate the possibility of welding.


and since I drag the car a lot I agree that too much LSD additive can cause the rear to not lockup...


l8tr


PEACE

[Greencamaro1234]

I see a lot of post on here about people changing fluid in their transmission and rear end A lot. I am not a mechanic but have been driving 40+ years,many muscle cars.Although I’m not great at doing routine maintenance,never have,in those years I have owned probably 20 cars,my 2011 camaro LS,V6 it has 130,000 miles,have never had a issue with it at all,other than replacing the battery.I have had this car 6 years and it had 40,000 on it when I bought it,never changed fluid in transmission or rearend. The owners manual requires changing it at first oil after 160,000 miles,so why are people changing every other oil change,or 5,000 miles or even 50,000 miles.I guess maybe I’m lucky but I have never changed or had it done in any of my cars.I have over 30 years working in construction mostly around Asphalt plants,which you have a lot of sprockets,gear boxes and chains and belts.I have seen gear boxes run days without oil in them,and we’re fine,although it’s not exactly the same as a transmission and rear end,but both are filled with metal gears inside of them.but,in my defense,I’m never rough on my cars.

[StreetRage320]

Originally Posted by Greencamaro1234

I see a lot of post on here about people changing fluid in their transmission and rear end A lot. I am not a mechanic but have been driving 40+ years,many muscle cars.Although I’m not great at doing routine maintenance,never have,in those years I have owned probably 20 cars,my 2011 camaro LS,V6 it has 130,000 miles,have never had a issue with it at all,other than replacing the battery.I have had this car 6 years and it had 40,000 on it when I bought it,never changed fluid in transmission or rearend. The owners manual requires changing it at first oil after 160,000 miles,so why are people changing every other oil change,or 5,000 miles or even 50,000 miles.I guess maybe I’m lucky but I have never changed or had it done in any of my cars.I have over 30 years working in construction mostly around Asphalt plants,which you have a lot of sprockets,gear boxes and chains and belts.I have seen gear boxes run days without oil in them,and we’re fine,although it’s not exactly the same as a transmission and rear end,but both are filled with metal gears inside of them.but,in my defense,I’m never rough on my cars.

I have the ZL1 diff, so a little different. But I think you answered your own question, if you do not race your car, or do hard acceleration/launches, you will not see the same wear as someone who is launching their car. With a heavy duty limited slip dif, a launch can cause wear, wear causes contamination, contamination causes more wear. By changing your rear diff fluid you are preventing additional wear from the contaminants.

that being said, it is super easy, relatively cheap, and good preventive maintenance, so why not.