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Old 09-20-2016, 09:36 PM   #1
Bennyb
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS
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Stabilitrak issue

I am having some serious issues with my 2011 Camaro SS. It is fully built with a YSI-V7 SC. I thought I was having starter issue, so I replaced the starter, but to my bad luck the issue is still persisting. The codes that keeps popping up are U0140, C0242, U2100, U0100, U0074. I checked all the fuzed and they all looked good. I can't seem to find the Body control module and the location of the control area network. any help would definitely relieve some stress. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:17 AM   #2
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I had ran into this same issue about a year ago. The Vitesse throttle controller was the part causing the issue. Not exactly sure how the two relate but haven't had an issue since I removed it.
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:28 AM   #3
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A little more information would be helpful. For example, how did the issue start? Out of the blue, or following some work that was done on the car? Also, how would the starter relate to those codes? They are not related at all. I mean they are different systems all together.

Judging from the information so far, I would say that you have a bad BCM somewhere or something is unplugged. If you know what BCM is suspect, just let us know which one you think it is, and we can point you in the right direction, as to it's location within the car.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:07 AM   #4
Bennyb
 
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Stabilitrack issue

The issue started about a month ago with the stabilitrak issue. I took it sat to a local mechanic and he said it might be the starter; changed the starter and same issue. He stated the mentioned codes and by researching it keeps going towards the BCM. I am trying to find the location of the BCM. Does anyone know the location of them? Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bennyb View Post
The issue started about a month ago with the stabilitrak issue. I took it sat to a local mechanic and he said it might be the starter; changed the starter and same issue. He stated the mentioned codes and by researching it keeps going towards the BCM. I am trying to find the location of the BCM. Does anyone know the location of them? Thanks in advance.
I'm not following your mechanics logic here.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:20 AM   #6
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Stabilitrack

The mechanic logic I don't understand. I took the car to them and when the vehicle is hot it has a hard time starting up; that's what they assume was wrong. It's still having a hard time starting up when hot and the stabilitrak is going on more frequently as well. I am beyond frustrated because I can't pin point the issue.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:51 AM   #7
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Did you check the battery for bad cells or poor charge? Oddly enough battery voltage can mess up all kinds of computer systems if it is low. When mine went bad the tachometer went dead and the car started running all choppy like the throttle body was unplugged. I then got a bunch of stabilitrak codes and the message on the central display saying to service it. It was just a bad battery.
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Old 09-21-2016, 02:30 PM   #8
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I have had this happen allot in the past and also have a YSI V-7, and it happened with a Whipple too, and although it will not help the starting, if you could make the error go away it will run fine and possibly not set the codes. This is what I did, was to disable the starter diagnostic checks in the tune, then if it drags and still starts you are fine without waiting to cool and do not set stabilitrak light and run crappy.
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Old 09-21-2016, 10:26 PM   #9
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I didn't even think about the battery because I replaced it about 7 months ago. Will definitely check it in the morning. Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 09-21-2016, 11:55 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Bennyb View Post
I didn't even think about the battery because I replaced it about 7 months ago. Will definitely check it in the morning. Thanks for the info guys.
The battery is Always the FIRST suspect of any electrical problem. I don't care if you replaced it last night. The Camaro has a decent heat shield on the starter so solenoid failure is rare. I don't think your issue has anything to do with a supercharger or the tune.

A common cause of false Stabilitrak messages/codes are cracked spark plugs, loose plug wires, burnt wires on headers etc.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:27 PM   #11
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I had those issues. First was the starter. Then a bad motor. Another thing that causes my stabilitrak to light up is going WOT with cutouts open
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Old 09-22-2016, 02:06 PM   #12
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Check the grounds on the back of the heads, I know, it sounds silly but just double check.
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:10 PM   #13
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This happens a lot to these cars when hot the fix is to run larger cables from the battery to the front ,problem solved and it won't sound like a weak battery everytime it starts either and no more stabilitrak or tach not working etc ! This should have been done from the factory to begin with !
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Old 09-23-2016, 10:52 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOSTO RACING View Post
This happens a lot to these cars when hot the fix is to run larger cables from the battery to the front ,problem solved and it won't sound like a weak battery everytime it starts either and no more stabilitrak or tach not working etc ! This should have been done from the factory to begin with !

If you're having a hot start issue, this is exactly right. The issue (in my incredibly untrained opinion) is caused by the positive jumper post in the engine bay. Perhaps causing some kind of resistance that doesn't allow the full current to hit the starter. I had this issue for a while. Replaced starter and battery, but car would still struggle to start when hot, and then throw codes, no tach, all TC lights lit up, and run like pure shit in limp mode.

after reading a few threads where folks put a jumper around that + battery post and it having success, I gave it a shot. Works like an absolute charm now. Have had it on for about a month or two, and not a single issue, even on days where ambient temp is 110 and I've sat in traffic for 45 min.

here are a few pics of what I did. some 2gauge wire from lowes, and some hose clamps. LIterally took like 20 min to do, including downing a cold beer. Total cost to resolve was about a whopping $5, including a fresh roll of electrical tape. It's not the prettiest solution, and I'm sure that there is a better way to do it, but this was super cheap, super simple, and works like a charm.





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