Manual transmission removal the easy way

[dtwolcot2]

I know it's good practice to replace it during a clutch install, but with not that many miles, doing the 125hp kit from Jannetty, and keeping the stock clutch I figured I'd be replacing it soon again. Long story short I didn't replace it.....

[ZMEnow]

Update... First thanks to dtwolcot2 for this post it helped out tremendously. I pulled the trans this weekend and replaced the flywheel and clutch and slave cylinder and added a one man speed bleeder from Monster. I got access to a GM tech guide that actually uses this method with modification. It does loosing the front and center suspension frame, and removes the rear completely so you can lower the cradle. This gives great access to the trans and there is no need to open the shift boot from inside the car. They recommend securing the the front of the cradle with jacks for obvious reasons, and using a jack to lower the rear of the cradle down. Also note the tech guide had different specs that were in the service manuals such as torque to yield specs on the flywheel bolts, and different specs on the clutch.

This method doesn't require removing the struts because the lower arms can still travel down, although I did remove the mag sensor rods but don't think I needed to. One note when re installing the trans, rotate to its right side or it wont go back up in its normal position as the bell housing keeps catching on the body tunnel. Once you get the spine back in the clutch hole you can easily rotate the trans back to the left. Anyway without this post this would have taken a lot longer thanks again.

[dtwolcot2]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Update... First thanks to dtwolcot2 for this post it helped out tremendously. I pulled the trans this weekend and replaced the flywheel and clutch and slave cylinder and added a one man speed bleeder from Monster. I got access to a GM tech guide that actually uses this method with modification. It does loosing the front and center suspension frame, and removes the rear completely so you can lower the cradle. This gives great access to the trans and there is no need to open the shift boot from inside the car. They recommend securing the the front of the cradle with jacks for obvious reasons, and using a jack to lower the rear of the cradle down. Also note the tech guide had different specs that were in the service manuals such as torque to yield specs on the flywheel bolts, and different specs on the clutch.

This method doesn't require removing the struts because the lower arms can still travel down, although I did remove the mag sensor rods but don't think I needed to. One note when re installing the trans, rotate to its right side or it wont go back up in its normal position as the bell housing keeps catching on the body tunnel. Once you get the spine back in the clutch hole you can easily rotate the trans back to the left. Anyway without this post this would have taken a lot longer thanks again.

You're welcome glad it helped. I wish I had this the first time.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by ZL1-Camaro

I might be replacing My clutch soon. Smoked it bad launching with MT drag radials and smoked it a few more times checking it out. After letting it cool and doing some aggressive down shifting it seems fine now and lets off the same distance off the floor as it used to, but I ordered a new clutch. I will loosen the k frame when I finally replace it, Thanks.

Mine was smoked so bad I could spin the inner clutch disk around with my hand.

[dtwolcot2]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Mine was smoked so bad I could spin the inner clutch disk around with my hand.

Did you get your flywheel resurfaced or did you purchase a new one? I know the dealer wanted to replace it but the shop I took it to had no problems doing it.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by dtwolcot2

Did you get your flywheel resurfaced or did you purchase a new one? I know the dealer wanted to replace it but the shop I took it to had no problems doing it.

I replaced it with a new on..

[Centerforce_Clutches]

Great write up! Thank you for contributing useful information to the forum that others can use.

[nolandkropf]

great write up, doing research and getting ready to do mine as well. Oil blew everywhere, so Im upgrading the whole thing. Anyone have any suggestions which brand and model to go with? 14 ZL1, 751rwh.thanks

[JamesMN]

Just replaced the dual mass flywheel in my 2013 Camaro LS v6. Followed this thread, it went well.

Points... Did not have to touch the front suspension. I did lower the subframe 1", but not sure I needed to. The top transmission bolt required a deep well shallow wall 15mm socket. I also ordered new camshaft bolts from GM for $2 each as the flywheel almost peeled the socket cap heads right off the bolts in the wear and tear.

My clutch plate had about 40% wear left on it. The car was shaking and shimmering because the dual mass flywheel wore out. Bought the LUK replacement kit which included the clutch, throw out bearing, flywheel, everything for about $450. Even the main bearing is preinstalled in the flywheel. First DIY job like this for me. I was quoted $1500 from a local shop.

The flywheel was pretty bad, ball bearings fell out of it on the garage concrete after I pulled it. It separated completely and I'm lucky I didn't have bigger problems. The throwout bearing was also completely worn and didn't "bearing" anymore. The clutch diaphram was in great condition, not too much wear and the springs looked fine to me. I would say the clutch held up well to heavy driving, just not the flywheel.

Replacing the flywheel was interesting. The bolts only line up in one direction, so a newbie like me, I cross threaded the second bolt and had to fix that.

When I went to mark the drive shaft before I separated it, I used a marking pen that wore off and I lost the marks on the transmission. Probably pretty dumb, but I'm not a mechanic. Anyone can prob replace a clutch in these things.

I also found that the 2013 transmission has a bleeder valve that's very easy to get to and operate, didn't require any special bleeder kit like other threads suggested.

394,000 miles since new, been sitting 9 months, so time to get this back on the road. No other major issues, great car. Thanks for the advice on this thread. I'm going to go drive now.

[SecondZ28]

Originally Posted by dtwolcot2

Too much racing at the drag strip and my attempt of getting one of the best if not the best times stock with drag radials only for a manual car. It took a lot of trial and error and practice.

I got 23k out of the clutch so I think I did OK on miles before it died.

Old post I know, but dang that's a lot of strip passes to only get 23k out it.

[VRZL113]

subd.

nice write-up!

[race24x]

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but do I need to do the lowering of the engine cradle on the SS? I have an M6 in my SS, but my supercharger is aftermarket and on the side of the engine centrifugal style. I have a clutch to put in, but not sure about the process. I have a lift and I have done many on older cars I worked for GM for 7 years as a tech. All the shortcuts people learn are very helpful when working flat rate.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by race24x

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but do I need to do the lowering of the engine cradle on the SS? I have an M6 in my SS, but my supercharger is aftermarket and on the side of the engine centrifugal style. I have a clutch to put in, but not sure about the process. I have a lift and I have done many on older cars I worked for GM for 7 years as a tech. All the shortcuts people learn are very helpful when working flat rate.

You are only lowering the rear of the cradle to gain access to the top of the tranny so you can unsnap the linkage without removing the boot and console from inside. It will also give you access to the top bolts on the tranny but you will need to pick up some extensions for your ratchet as it’s about 3 feet from the rear of the tranny.

[Nb1081]

You dont need to undo the cradle there is enough rock in motor mounts to get top bolt off i just put tranny back in 2010 ls3 m6 monster lt1 s install but to get it out of tunnel you need to get the input shaft out past pressure plate and the rotate tranny so bell housing clears the tunnel and make sure you tuck the wires out of way on passenger side the heat wraped part of harness can pinch in between bell and chassis. All this was done on ground so lift will definitely help you out and bolt for tranny line to ac compressor is easy access through the wheel well and mark the driveshaft and coupler so the go back in same location