Cradle Bushings---Pic of alignment numbers added page 2

[Bigtime53]

Has anyone had a issue with these? I noticed my car was moving in the rear under acceleration so I installed the new solid control arms on the top and bottom. They have the polyurethane bushings in them from BMR. I was told I did not have to have the car realigned but it drove funny after the install so I did. After I had that done I drove the car and I was driving at 65mph and floored it and when it went into passing gear it made a hard right and then when I let off the gas back to the left it went and back to the right. It almost put me in the ditch plus scared the crap out of me. Now I am told I need the cradle bushings to stop this so I have ordered those. Have any of you had this happen to you? My car has 23k miles on it and I would not think it would need all of these parts to get it right. I have read that this is the first thing everyone should do when they buy these cars because of so much movement of the rear axle housing. Have any of you changed these? By the way my car is stock and not modified any. Thanks

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by Bigtime53

Has anyone had a issue with these? I noticed my car was moving in the rear under acceleration so I installed the new solid control arms on the top and bottom. They have the polyurethane bushings in them from BMR. I was told I did not have to have the car realigned but it drove funny after the install so I did. After I had that done I drove the car and I was driving at 65mph and floored it and when it went into passing gear it made a hard right and then when I let off the gas back to the left it went and back to the right. It almost put me in the ditch plus scared the crap out of me. Now I am told I need the cradle bushings to stop this so I have ordered those. Have any of you had this happen to you? My car has 23k miles on it and I would not think it would need all of these parts to get it right. I have read that this is the first thing everyone should do when they buy these cars because of so much movement of the rear axle housing. Have any of you changed these? By the way my car is stock and not modified any. Thanks

After changing the arms ... Did you have the geometry settings checked?

[Bigtime53]

Originally Posted by George-CZ

After changing the arms ... Did you have the
geometry settings checked?

Shouldn't the alignment guy done that? Please explain

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by Bigtime53

Shouldn't the alignment guy done that? Please explain

I did the same operation a few weeks ago.

It is not just possible to mark the starting position on the eccentric pad.
It is necessary to place the car on a stool and refocus the geometry.

The back of the car danced on the road.
I exchanged toe rords and trailing arms, reset the geometry and everything was fine. The car is much better than before.

[LCPLPunk]

There isn't anything 'wrong' with the ZL1 suspension, but it could be better...


Here is an example of the stock bushings vs upgraded solids.

[DrkPhx]

The stock ZL1 suspension is too soft imo. I've used a combo of Z/28 and aftermarket parts to dial it in to my taste, but the most effective suspension mod was installing solid cradle bushings. Definitely worth and it wasn't that bad of an install.

[Bigtime53]

Originally Posted by George-CZ

I did the same operation a few weeks ago.

It is not just possible to mark the starting position on the eccentric pad.
It is necessary to place the car on a stool and refocus the geometry.

The back of the car danced on the road.
I exchanged toe rords and trailing arms, reset the geometry and everything was fine. The car is much better than before.

So these pics you put up will work on a 15 ZL1? It says 2010 SS so I just want to make sure. Just so I understand should I take it back to the alignment guy and show him these illustrations and have him redo or set to these? I wish that was in english! Thanks

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Bigtime53

So these pics you put up will work on a 15 ZL1? It says 2010 SS so I just want to make sure. Just so I understand should I take it back to the alignment guy and show him these illustrations and have him redo or set to these? I wish that was in english! Thanks

NO, if you are a coupe you are FE5.

[Bigtime53]

So i need some input what do I need to get this back right. I guess I could take it to a dealer and they should know how to get it right correct? I do not know if a regular shop will know how to set it up correct since that is what I have already done and it sure is not right now.

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by Bigtime53

So i need some input what do I need to get this back right. I guess I could take it to a dealer and they should know how to get it right correct? I do not know if a regular shop will know how to set it up correct since that is what I have already done and it sure is not right now.

Don't be afraid of anything.

Each service representative with a geometric stool will have ZL1 in the database.

The point is to see that even after marking the starting position of the adjusting washers, it is not certain that the geometry is as it should be.

I think that after the right setting, your Camaro will be fine again.

[Bigtime53]

The shop I took it to to get it aligned at showed me his computer screen that he went off of and it had 2012-2015 ZL1 Camaro stats and he said he went off of that to align it. He also told me they just had someone with the company that sold them the rack come by and put the latest programs in it. If that is the case they either did not know what the heck they put in the computer or the front end guy did not know how to do it. I will get to the bottom of it starting monday and I will post what it took to get it correct. Thanks for help guys.

[Vicster]

I replaced components it the front and rear suspension. I took it to a shop that would set it the way I wanted it set, within GM specs is not good enough, there is to much variance allowed.
Here are my specs;
FRONT:
CAMBER (DEG) -1.2
CASTER (DEG) 7.5
TOTAL TOE 1/16" (0.17*) (1/32” PER WHEEL)

REAR:
CAMBER (DEG) -1.0
TOTAL TOE 1/16" (0.17*) (1/32” PER WHEEL)

Here are some pics and a good spreadsheet of alignment specs.

Parts listed in my build journal.

[Bigtime53]

Originally Posted by Vicster

I replaced components it the front and rear suspension. I took it to a shop that would set it the way I wanted it set, within GM specs is not good enough, there is to much variance allowed.
Here are my specs;
FRONT:
CAMBER (DEG) -1.2
CASTER (DEG) 7.5
TOTAL TOE 1/16" (0.17*) (1/32” PER WHEEL)

REAR:
CAMBER (DEG) -1.0
TOTAL TOE 1/16" (0.17*) (1/32” PER WHEEL)

Here are some pics and a good spreadsheet of alignment specs.

Parts listed in my build journal.

Thank you for that.

[yellow69z28rs]

Originally Posted by Bigtime53

Has anyone had a issue with these? I noticed my car was moving in the rear under acceleration so I installed the new solid control arms on the top and bottom. They have the polyurethane bushings in them from BMR. I was told I did not have to have the car realigned but it drove funny after the install so I did. After I had that done I drove the car and I was driving at 65mph and floored it and when it went into passing gear it made a hard right and then when I let off the gas back to the left it went and back to the right. It almost put me in the ditch plus scared the crap out of me. Now I am told I need the cradle bushings to stop this so I have ordered those. Have any of you had this happen to you? My car has 23k miles on it and I would not think it would need all of these parts to get it right. I have read that this is the first thing everyone should do when they buy these cars because of so much movement of the rear axle housing. Have any of you changed these? By the way my car is stock and not modified any. Thanks

Same exact issues!