Active Chiller installing...

[4U2NV-SS]

Car info
2012 Camaro SS M6
Whipple 2.9 12 lbs boost, whipple H/E and pump, rotofab reservoir
just about every bolt-on, headers, roto-fab, e85, etc, etc

[Batmanntexas]

Here is the bypass hose routing that I used. I'm not familiar with the new digital controller.

-Scott

[Ajax2112]

I don’t have an interchiller system but have been reading up on them as I think this might be my next upgrade.

I would think you would want the reservoir after the chiller. I would inmagine having the reservoir after the brick would act like a hot water holding tank which I would think would increase the water temp as opposed to lowering it.

[4U2NV-SS]

This is the way Whipple has it...

[DSMer1]

I don't have the fancy new digital controller but I did retain my hx because I didn't trust the chiller. It's a good thing I did because it works so so. The diverter valve is very similar and I do have the vacuum line going to it. I pulled vacuum off one of the three vacuum sources on the driver's side of the blower. I had to tee into one of the bigger lines and reduce it. I used the check valve and installed it so only vacuum could pass through and not boost. You can test the proper direction by sucking and blowing on the valve before you install it. The system dosen't work very well at all under 50 degrees outside temps unless in comp mode. Your hx should be working fine though. Something is wrong if it's not cooling the intake charge on it own.
How much extra freon did you charge the system with?
Also, I forgot the name of it but the little copper tube that comes off the chiller unit that gets clamped to the outside of a fitting... It is suppose to be wrapped to keep air off it.
I have my inlet routed to the passenger side of my Whipple and the driver's side is functioning as the outlet. Im going to look into that and see if I have it wrong.
Your hx should be working with the ac off. Are you sure the AC button is off? Did you have your deforest on?

Edit I attached a crappy screenshot of the tube that needs to be wrapped

[DSMer1]

I went out and snapped two pics for you in reference to the vacuum source. My controller is more simple, just full chiller if AC compressor is engaged and through the hx if the AC clutch if not engaged but the vacuum source and check valve still work the same way.

[swiftkart]

Originally Posted by Ajax2112

I don’t have an interchiller system but have been reading up on them as I think this might be my next upgrade.

I would think you would want the reservoir after the chiller. I would inmagine having the reservoir after the brick would act like a hot water holding tank which I would think would increase the water temp as opposed to lowering it.

That is Correct!

I have my reservoir after the chiller so you have a larger volume of ice cold water being produced to get you through the 1/4 or 1/2 mile, temps run in the 30 to 40 deg. range driving around in 40 to 50 deg. weather and 50 to 60 in 90 to 100 deg. weather, the way the OP has his setup the chiller doesn't have enough time to cool the water so the blower heat starts to takeover, it's not an instant temperature drop with this system it takes a little time so the added volume of you pushing ice cold chiller water to the reservoir first makes a big difference.

[4U2NV-SS]

Originally Posted by DSMer1

I don't have the fancy new digital controller but I did retain my hx because I didn't trust the chiller. It's a good thing I did because it works so so. The diverter valve is very similar and I do have the vacuum line going to it. I pulled vacuum off one of the three vacuum sources on the driver's side of the blower. I had to tee into one of the bigger lines and reduce it. I used the check valve and installed it so only vacuum could pass through and not boost. You can test the proper direction by sucking and blowing on the valve before you install it. The system dosen't work very well at all under 50 degrees outside temps unless in comp mode. Your hx should be working fine though. Something is wrong if it's not cooling the intake charge on it own.
How much extra freon did you charge the system with?
Also, I forgot the name of it but the little copper tube that comes off the chiller unit that gets clamped to the outside of a fitting... It is suppose to be wrapped to keep air off it.
I have my inlet routed to the passenger side of my Whipple and the driver's side is functioning as the outlet. Im going to look into that and see if I have it wrong.
Your hx should be working with the ac off. Are you sure the AC button is off? Did you have your deforest on?

Edit I attached a crappy screenshot of the tube that needs to be wrapped

DSMer1,
I am using the same vacuum port as you and I checked the check valve, all good.
I mine I have the water outlet on the passenger side and intake on the driver. Kinda how the Whipple instructions show the flow.
I had an shop recharge my AC Freon and ask to fill it more because of the chiller. I may go back this weekend and see if they can check it again, refill if needed.
I attached a picture of my copper line, what needs to be covered? I have not heard about that.
Thanks

[Ajax2112]

Can you post the rest of the wiring diagram.

[4U2NV-SS]

Update

I wired the digital controller to the way Dave has it in his instructions. Vacuum line is correct and check valve is fine.
Spoke with Dave for a few minutes yesterday, he is out on vacation, but did call me back to help diagnosis.

It was late last night about 38 degrees outside. The diverter valve was one way and the water temps her around 55. Drove the car a few blocks and water temp continued to rise. About 1 mile of driving normal, taking it easy trying not to create heat, water temp was at 85 degrees. Pulled over and checked out the diverter valve and had switch to a different position. Jumped back in and drove around again with AC only on. Temps stood steady for a few blocks and then started to rise more. Water temps were getting close to 100. So I left the AC on and flipped the switch on. About 10 secs later the temps dropped and got down to around 60-65. But as soon as I flip the switch off the water temps would rise fast. Drove it home and parked it in the garage. Diverter valve stood in the same position and to when I pulled over. I flipped the switch, AC on and off, the diverter valve would not change. I am going to see how the diverter valve is when I get home and the water temp is cold again.

[Ajax2112]

Originally Posted by 4U2NV-SS

Update

I wired the digital controller to the way Dave has it in his instructions. Vacuum line is correct and check valve is fine.
Spoke with Dave for a few minutes yesterday, he is out on vacation, but did call me back to help diagnosis.

It was late last night about 38 degrees outside. The diverter valve was one way and the water temps her around 55. Drove the car a few blocks and water temp continued to rise. About 1 mile of driving normal, taking it easy trying not to create heat, water temp was at 85 degrees. Pulled over and checked out the diverter valve and had switch to a different position. Jumped back in and drove around again with AC only on. Temps stood steady for a few blocks and then started to rise more. Water temps were getting close to 100. So I left the AC on and flipped the switch on. About 10 secs later the temps dropped and got down to around 60-65. But as soon as I flip the switch off the water temps would rise fast. Drove it home and parked it in the garage. Diverter valve stood in the same position and to when I pulled over. I flipped the switch, AC on and off, the diverter valve would not change. I am going to see how the diverter valve is when I get home and the water temp is cold again.

That’s why I asked about the wiring diagram. Something doesn’t look right with the one you posted. The relay wiring looks incorrect.

[4U2NV-SS]

Originally Posted by Ajax2112

That’s why I asked about the wiring diagram. Something doesn’t look right with the one you posted. The relay wiring looks incorrect.

I posted everything that was sent to me. Any other ideas?

Going to pull the vacuum line now and drive around and see what happens. With it unplugged it should just flow through the heat exchanger.

[JMI]

Possible that you have air in the system maybe?
We did a ZR1 a while back,it gave us a little hard time. The ZR1 pump is very picky,if it pulls a little air,it shuts off to protect itself.we moved the pump location just a hair.Cured the problem. Been working great ever since.
These were the older system.
We also did a CTS-V. IAT2 in the 50F idling at the track with the hood closed is kinda nice.

[Batmanntexas]

looks to me like Dave has his wires mislabeled for the digital controller. The way I interpret the schematics that have been provided, is that pins 2&3 power pins (they should have 12V, switched or not) Pin 4 is GROUND, while PIN 1 is for your device.

Do you have the competition model Interchiller?

-Scott