Horsepower gains L99

[neil4374]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Before you do anything, take the time to check the local laws there regarding modifying your car. Might save yourself a lot of headache and $/₩.

Thank you I will. I would always keep a stock tune on the handheld. I suppose that’s a good benefit of a handheld.

[LCPLPunk]

So...


Here is what you should do if you want a quicker L99...


Stage one
Budget $1000
Speed Engineering longtube headers - $350
VMAX Ported Throttle body - $150
R2C Cold Air Intake - $275 - pick whatever brand you want
RDP Motorsports tuner and lifetime tunes $450


Optional: aftermarket Undrive pulley - $250 - but a PITA to install
Optional: GPI's ported/rod modded intake manifold - $3-400ish - worth about 10-15 hp


Stage 2 - around $1500 installed

Circle D Converter - if you are going to get a cam in the future, talk with Circle D and figure out what you should go with
3.91 gears - $1000 installed


Stage 3 - cam - $around 4k installed, $2k if you can do it yourself

If going for a wicked quick daily driver, go with GPI's SS3 cam - will require an aftermarket converter
If going for a reliable and not as wicked daily driver - GPI's SS1 cam - doesn't require a converter, but you are dumb if you don't get one


What I have done so far is Stage 1 and 2. From what I have heard, a full-bolt on and higher stalled L99 will beat a cammed/unconverted L99. I haven't tested this yet, but I've heard it from people who know their shit. My car launches like a rocket, and I'm still on street tires so I haven't even been able to launch at full strength without losing most traction.

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by LCPLPunk

So...


Here is what you should do if you want a quicker L99...


Stage one
Budget $1000
Speed Engineering longtube headers - $350
VMAX Ported Throttle body - $150
R2C Cold Air Intake - $275 - pick whatever brand you want
RDP Motorsports tuner and lifetime tunes $450


Optional: aftermarket Undrive pulley - $250 - but a PITA to install
Optional: GPI's ported/rod modded intake manifold - $3-400ish - worth about 10-15 hp


Stage 2 - around $1500 installed

Circle D Converter - if you are going to get a cam in the future, talk with Circle D and figure out what you should go with
3.91 gears - $1000 installed


Stage 3 - cam - $around 4k installed, $2k if you can do it yourself

If going for a wicked quick daily driver, go with GPI's SS3 cam - will require an aftermarket converter
If going for a reliable and not as wicked daily driver - GPI's SS1 cam - doesn't require a converter, but you are dumb if you don't get one


What I have done so far is Stage 1 and 2. From what I have heard, a full-bolt on and higher stalled L99 will beat a cammed/unconverted L99. I haven't tested this yet, but I've heard it from people who know their shit. My car launches like a rocket, and I'm still on street tires so I haven't even been able to launch at full strength without losing most traction.

You have done a great job on your build....but drag radials are a must for you now.

[LCPLPunk]

Haha, they sure are! Since I DD mine I think I'll probably just jump up to a bigger size (305) from my 275s...

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by LCPLPunk

Haha, they sure are! Since I DD mine I think I'll probably just jump up to a bigger size (305) from my 275s...

How many miles per year.? The Nitto 555r are a great all around tire. Work pretty good at the track and great on the street with good traction. Other brands are better at the track but wear quicker.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by LCPLPunk

Haha, they sure are! Since I DD mine I think I'll probably just jump up to a bigger size (305) from my 275s...

You can always just get yourself a set of 17" wheels with some MTs and throw those on when you go to the track, thats what I do.

How many miles per year.? The Nitto 555r are a great all around tire. Work pretty good at the track and great on the street with good traction. Other brands are better at the track but wear quicker.

What I like about my MTs are that I don't have to roast them at the track on the burnout like the old NTO5Rs in the sig pic!

[LCPLPunk]

Probably around 12,000 a year give or take. I'll probably grab the BF Goodrich Comp-2 ASs when I get some new tires. https://www.amazon.com/BFGoodrich-G-...gateway&sr=8-5

[Crankshaft]

Those VVT 1.2 cams from Texas Speed claim a 105hp increase while keeping the cost down since you only replace the 4 lifters and trays from the AFM side; the tuning can be handled by mailordertuner.com since that is who used to tune for TSP so he has knowledge of their products. I am in no way a vendor of any of the above companies just to add. A small dry NOS system can come in handy when all you need is a minor boost to keep an upper hand, sneaky Pete kits are under $400 and use your factory fuel source by simply raising fuel pressure to compensate via a vacuum line to the FPR.

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

You can always just get yourself a set of 17" wheels with some MTs and throw those on when you go to the track, thats what I do.



What I like about my MTs are that I don't have to roast them at the track on the burnout like the old NTO5Rs in the sig pic!

Ya but that's a great pic haha. This year in going to roast the 555r pretty good to see how they do.At $1000 a pair ....I cringe.

[neil4374]

Originally Posted by LCPLPunk

So...


Here is what you should do if you want a quicker L99...


Stage one
Budget $1000
Speed Engineering longtube headers - $350
VMAX Ported Throttle body - $150
R2C Cold Air Intake - $275 - pick whatever brand you want
RDP Motorsports tuner and lifetime tunes $450


Optional: aftermarket Undrive pulley - $250 - but a PITA to install
Optional: GPI's ported/rod modded intake manifold - $3-400ish - worth about 10-15 hp


Stage 2 - around $1500 installed

Circle D Converter - if you are going to get a cam in the future, talk with Circle D and figure out what you should go with
3.91 gears - $1000 installed


Stage 3 - cam - $around 4k installed, $2k if you can do it yourself

If going for a wicked quick daily driver, go with GPI's SS3 cam - will require an aftermarket converter
If going for a reliable and not as wicked daily driver - GPI's SS1 cam - doesn't require a converter, but you are dumb if you don't get one


What I have done so far is Stage 1 and 2. From what I have heard, a full-bolt on and higher stalled L99 will beat a cammed/unconverted L99. I haven't tested this yet, but I've heard it from people who know their shit. My car launches like a rocket, and I'm still on street tires so I haven't even been able to launch at full strength without losing most traction.

Awesome answer, thanks.
Regarding the rdp tuner. Is that a handheld tuner?

[Roader]

Originally Posted by Crankshaft

Those VVT 1.2 cams from Texas Speed claim a 105hp increase while keeping the cost down since you only replace the 4 lifters and trays from the AFM side; the tuning can be handled by mailordertuner.com since that is who used to tune for TSP so he has knowledge of their products. I am in no way a vendor of any of the above companies just to add. A small dry NOS system can come in handy when all you need is a minor boost to keep an upper hand, sneaky Pete kits are under $400 and use your factory fuel source by simply raising fuel pressure to compensate via a vacuum line to the FPR.

Lot more to replace,than just 4 lifters and trays. Still have to remove heads which is where it cost the l99 guys the biggest price increase

[LCPLPunk]

RDP Motorsports is the shop, SCT is the tuner.


Roader: TSP actually makes a AFM friendly cam that you don't have to pull the heads for...(I think)

[Roader]

They do. If you trust the afm lifters then go for it. I’m not spending that kind of money to keep afm lifters. You’ll pay more in the long run to do it twice

[LCPLPunk]

Nope, I sure don't, but at least people show know the option is there. :P