Let's talk about servicing our Camaros

[VICTORY RED 1SS]

Well..I'm not interested in fuel economy for this car, nor will I operate it in the winter, so I am definately going to run 10w30 not 5w30.
I will lose a small amount of hp, but 5w30 is too thin for performance usage. The only reason for running 5w oil is to boost fuel economy or hp or if you live in the arctic.

I will stick with synthetic, because synthetic is a better lubricant due to the long chain molecules and purity of the base product.
I will either use Lucas, or Amsoil or Mobil. I am not an amsoil religion person, but if you look at the comparisons, no lubricant supplier will claim superiority to Amsoil.

[Eighty-Six Z]

I saw the question raised in the first post but didn't see an answer to it yet (or atleast I overlooked it)...... Since the engine is coming from the factory with synthetic already in it, does that mean they are seating the pistons right off the assembly line? Just curious if I need to take out the synthetic for the break-in period and then re-aply the synthethic after 1000 miles.

Thanks in advance.

[GrnMchin]

I will do my own oil changes and service. Just going to be summer driver and will most likely use a synthetic oil. After break in. As for synthetic vs conventional they both get dirty so spend more every 3000 or spend less every 3000. I have used conventional on my Nova (420 hp 400 lb-ft) for the past 10 years and had no problems. Let your driving conditions and wallet decide. My 2 cents.
Filter Wix all the way or (NAPA Gold) same same.

[blazzin1]

What do ya'll think of that Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" Synthetic. It's supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. That seems like an awful long time to go between oil changes, but that's what they claim! I've been using it in my Silverado for some time now with good results, but the "change oil" idiot light still comes on at about 4-5000 miles. I don't usually let it go any longer than that. Sure would be nice to go 15,000 miles, but I don't want to take the chance. At $6-7 a quart, it is comparable to the AMSOIL and RP, but just wondering if there is any truth to the 15K claim. Any thoughts?

[camaro5]

Mobil 1 Extended Performance has a unique formulation with a boosted level of protection and performance. Mobil 1 Extended Performance, with the Advanced SuperSyn System, contains 50 percent more SuperSyn than Mobil 1. (Updated March 2006)

So, I believe it has boosted detergents and will maintain viscosity better with "Advanced" SuperSyn System.

I couldn't do it. It won't remove tiny metal particles that build up in the oil pan.

Corvette Forum has several informative threads on this topic, regarding the LS3.

People that waited more than 5000 miles, found excessive amounts of metal particles in the pan. Use a magnetic drain plug too. The later LS3's come with them from the factory.

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by VICTORY RED 1SS

Well..I'm not interested in fuel economy for this car, nor will I operate it in the winter, so I am definately going to run 10w30 not 5w30.
I will lose a small amount of hp, but 5w30 is too thin for performance usage. The only reason for running 5w oil is to boost fuel economy or hp or if you live in the arctic.

There is one other reason: Because the engine is designed to run reliably on 5w30. Using 10w30 instead, your cold starts are going to be starved of oil longer until the oil warms up and can be circulated properly. You might want to reconsider.

Originally Posted by blazzin1

What do ya'll think of that Mobil 1 "Extended Performance" Synthetic. It's supposed to be good for 15,000 miles. That seems like an awful long time to go between oil changes, but that's what they claim!

That is an awfully long time. VW manual says 10,000 miles and requires VW-approved oil for their cars, and that seems to work, so I suppose it's not impossible. However, I personally wouldn't deviate too far from the manufacturers recommendation.

For sure, anyone looking to keep their warranty valid is well advised to do exactly what the manual says and document it as much as possible.

I've been using it in my Silverado for some time now with good results, but the "change oil" idiot light still comes on at about 4-5000 miles.

Your (and my) truck's "change oil" light would come on at the same time no matter what oil you use -- SAE 30 from the dollar store, Mobil 1 Extended Performance synthetic, Amsoil, Quaker State Q-power, Royal Purple, transmission fluid, or diluted axle grease. It doesn't measure the oil in any way. It is basically a counter that runs faster when RPM is high, temperature is high, etc, and slower when you go easier on the engine. It uses existing data to compute when you're due for an oil change.

[blazzin1]

Good info to know, thank you. I thought it measured the viscosity of your oil somehow. Guess I was wrong. Thanks for the tip. But, still it doesn't quite make sense because if remember correctly, if I reset the light without changing the oil, the oil light comes back on after a few start ups. Weird! I'll have to verify that next time my light comes on.

[GrnMchin]

15k between oil changes seem way to long. The oil lubricating properties may not break down, but the oil would be filled with metal by then and cause a lot more wear. I used Mobil 1 and Red Line in the past with a truck I used for heavy towing (14K +) and went well over 100k before selling for a new one and never had any engine failures. If you go say 6k between oil changes then at least change your filter every 3k with a high quality filter.

[CamaroSpike23]

Originally Posted by theholycow

That said, why the heck would someone put 10w30 in an engine designed for 5w20? I would think that it's obvious to most people that the engine may not be capable of moving the thicker oil fast enough...but I'm no engine engineer, so I can't say that I'm SURE of that idea. I just know that they have a lot to lose by specifying less than the perfect oil weight; a reputation for early engine failure will destroy sales quickly, so what the manual specifies is almost certainly the right weight.
Oh, and a car isn't an investment.

Originally Posted by VICTORY RED 1SS

Well..I'm not interested in fuel economy for this car, nor will I operate it in the winter, so I am definately going to run 10w30 not 5w30.
I will lose a small amount of hp, but 5w30 is too thin for performance usage. The only reason for running 5w oil is to boost fuel economy or hp or if you live in the arctic.

I will stick with synthetic, because synthetic is a better lubricant due to the long chain molecules and purity of the base product.
I will either use Lucas, or Amsoil or Mobil. I am not an amsoil religion person, but if you look at the comparisons, no lubricant supplier will claim superiority to Amsoil.

thats cus amsoil isnt API certified on their oil. other companies dont have to fight with someone who fudges the tests in their favor.


now as for the 10w30 vs 5w30..... damn, im glad im on this site

as far as "thicker" oils vs "thinner" oils (which isnt really true, because thicker doesnt always mean higher viscosity, just as thinner doesnt always mean lower viscosity. thinner/thicker has to be taken in account with viscosity, flow rate, and shear strength):

take 5w-30 vs 10w-30
some people think
5+30=35
10+30=40

DONT EVER DO THIS. this is stupid math.

the first number is the flow characteristic in like 32f the 10w means that it flows better at 32f/0c. so if you live in a colder climate, a 5w oil would be better for start up conditions. as for the other number, that is for the operating temp flow characteristic.
however, the differences are minimal and are so close in ambient flow rates that its a toss-up.

Originally Posted by Eighty-Six Z

I saw the question raised in the first post but didn't see an answer to it yet (or atleast I overlooked it)...... Since the engine is coming from the factory with synthetic already in it, does that mean they are seating the pistons right off the assembly line? Just curious if I need to take out the synthetic for the break-in period and then re-aply the synthethic after 1000 miles.

Thanks in advance.

you can break in motors with synthetic oil. in fact a lot of synth oil companies are coming out with synth oil specially designed for break-in procedures. as for the motor from the factory... the rings will be seated before it hits the show room floor. feel free to romp the hell out of it out of the dealer parking lot.

Originally Posted by blazzin1

Good info to know, thank you. I thought it measured the viscosity of your oil somehow. Guess I was wrong. Thanks for the tip. But, still it doesn't quite make sense because if remember correctly, if I reset the light without changing the oil, the oil light comes back on after a few start ups. Weird! I'll have to verify that next time my light comes on.

the sensors for the oil measure the viscosity and flow and temp of the oil to get a reading on how well it is still lubricating/cleaning/cooling your motor and judges how much life is expected out of it.

Originally Posted by GrnMchin

15k between oil changes seem way to long. The oil lubricating properties may not break down, but the oil would be filled with metal by then and cause a lot more wear. I used Mobil 1 and Red Line in the past with a truck I used for heavy towing (14K +) and went well over 100k before selling for a new one and never had any engine failures. If you go say 6k between oil changes then at least change your filter every 3k with a high quality filter.

mileage is no longer the major factor in oil changes. as synth oil and filter technology increases, engines are becoming cleaner and are operating at closer tolerances which allow for less blow-by, less oil consumption, and better oil performance.



http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=oil+viscosity

[CamaroSpike23]

oh....and....

Originally Posted by theholycow

Oh, and a car isn't an investment.

[GrnMchin]

I agree that mileage is no longer a factor, but oil synthetic or not still get dirty and the filter should be changed for extended life oil. Even when the wear is minimal I would rather have a filter change as insurance other wise why have a filter at all. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Still like to change my oil every 3k, just for the simple reason stated above. If I change my filter it's not that much more to drain the pan. For about half of my cars the ones that I dive in the summer that's may one or two a year. My daily drives about four or five a year.

[GrnMchin]

Thanks for the good info.

[The_Blur]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

thats cus amsoil isnt API certified on their oil. other companies dont have to fight with someone who fudges the tests in their favor.


now as for the 10w30 vs 5w30..... damn, im glad im on this site

as far as "thicker" oils vs "thinner" oils (which isnt really true, because thicker doesnt always mean higher viscosity, just as thinner doesnt always mean lower viscosity. thinner/thicker has to be taken in account with viscosity, flow rate, and shear strength):

take 5w-30 vs 10w-30
some people think
5+30=35
10+30=40

DONT EVER DO THIS. this is stupid math.

the first number is the flow characteristic in like 32f the 10w means that it flows better at 32f/0c. so if you live in a colder climate, a 5w oil would be better for start up conditions. as for the other number, that is for the operating temp flow characteristic.
however, the differences are minimal and are so close in ambient flow rates that its a toss-up.





you can break in motors with synthetic oil. in fact a lot of synth oil companies are coming out with synth oil specially designed for break-in procedures. as for the motor from the factory... the rings will be seated before it hits the show room floor. feel free to romp the hell out of it out of the dealer parking lot.





the sensors for the oil measure the viscosity and flow and temp of the oil to get a reading on how well it is still lubricating/cleaning/cooling your motor and judges how much life is expected out of it.



mileage is no longer the major factor in oil changes. as synth oil and filter technology increases, engines are becoming cleaner and are operating at closer tolerances which allow for less blow-by, less oil consumption, and better oil performance.



http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=oil+viscosity

We're all glad you're here.

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

the sensors for the oil measure the viscosity and flow and temp of the oil to get a reading on how well it is still lubricating/cleaning/cooling your motor and judges how much life is expected out of it.

That's what those sensors would do if they were present in a vehicle, but his 2001 Silverado and my 2002 Sierra don't have it. In fact, AFAIK, most or all GM vehicles do NOT have the sensors. GM oil lights come on based on driving conditions measurable by existing sensors -- engine temperature, RPM, maybe IAT, TPS, etc.

I think I read somewhere that Chrysler's system does measure the oil viscosity and such. IIRC, it uses electric conductivity of the oil to measure how much life remains.

From http://www.goodwrench.com/Services/OilChange.jsp

Most GM vehicles are now equipped with the GM Oil Life System. This system actually senses your vehicle's speed and engine temperature and can continuously monitor operating conditions. This helps determine when it's time to change the oil.

This system can actually monitor your personal driving habits and your area's climate condition to let you know precisely when to come in for a Goodwrench Oil Change.

What they don't say there, but do say in the manual, is that it can't account for stuff it can't measure -- for example, operation in dirty/dusty conditions. In those cases it is recommended to change the oil sooner. It also can't account for different oil than what is specified, so if your oil doesn't at least meet the specifications in your manual, change sooner than the light comes on...and if your oil is better, you won't know the best time to change it.