Recipe for 600-650RWHP without a cam!

[Ron_Robinson1]

Originally Posted by jon6.0

Your cap doesn't leak?

Not that I know of. I thought they addressed this issue with the leaky cap, Humm maybe I should keep a eye out.

[2010abmss]

Originally Posted by jon6.0

You and I think alike on that subject. I like the D3 unit, but it doesn't hold that much. I would like something two or three times its capacity and made of aluminum and not plastic. I'm not sure I'm willing to risk getting a leaky cap that the Lingenfelter/Rotofab reservoir is sometimes known for. Right now I can do a WOT pull to the top of 4th gear when it's 104F outside and I see 140F on IAT2. It's back down to 110-114F IAT2 pretty quick after I let off and go 70mph again.

I'm an engineer by day and night a car junkie, I'm going to come up with my own reservoir design!

[jon6.0]

Originally Posted by 2010abmss

I'm an engineer by day and night a car junkie, I'm going to come up with my own reservoir design!

Right on. When doing custom fab work it basically comes down to how much you want to spend. Somebody with the skills that can do it themselves is way ahead of the curve. The D3 unit is a nice piece and while they could make something bigger to fit somewhere else, it would be more labor intensive and not as profitable.

[hognutz]

my .02 if you want to do this on a budget and make it as easy on labor as possile

1. rotofab cai $399
2. lower pulley 9.55 ring $560
3. stainless works catless 1 7/8 headers $650
4. id 850's $920
5. ron davis HX $550
6. idler relocation and pulley $199
7. tune $399
8. belt
9. arp balancer bolt

~$3700

this should compete with any package that does not go into the motor that these tuning places sell for way more and could be done in a day to the car.

[2010abmss]

Originally Posted by hognutz

my .02 if you want to do this on a budget and make it as easy on labor as possile

1. rotofab cai $399
2. lower pulley 9.55 ring $560
3. stainless works catless 1 7/8 headers $650
4. id 850's $920
5. ron davis HX $550
6. idler relocation and pulley $199
7. tune $399
8. belt
9. arp balancer bolt

~$3700

this should compete with any package that does not go into the motor that these tuning places sell for way more and could be done in a day to the car.

Thats pretty much my plan except I'm going to scratch off the HX for now, I only drive it on the street 99.99% of the time! I'm only in boost when I really want it to be so the stock HX will suffice just fine for me!

[Taser Deployed]

Originally Posted by hognutz

my .02 if you want to do this on a budget and make it as easy on labor as possile

1. rotofab cai $399
2. lower pulley 9.55 ring $560
3. stainless works catless 1 7/8 headers $650
4. id 850's $920
5. ron davis HX $550
6. idler relocation and pulley $199
7. tune $399
8. belt
9. arp balancer bolt

~$3700

this should compete with any package that does not go into the motor that these tuning places sell for way more and could be done in a day to the car.

[white ZL1]

Originally Posted by hognutz

my .02 if you want to do this on a budget and make it as easy on labor as possile

1. rotofab cai $399
2. lower pulley 9.55 ring $560
3. stainless works catless 1 7/8 headers $650
4. id 850's $920
5. ron davis HX $550
6. idler relocation and pulley $199
7. tune $399
8. belt
9. arp balancer bolt

~$3700

this should compete with any package that does not go into the motor that these tuning places sell for way more and could be done in a day to the car.

Almost exactly what I have, just added the LS9 cam while the balancer was off.

[Ron_Robinson1]

So it seems that were good with just changing out the lower? Does anyone change out both? Or is it just easier to change the lower and leave the top alone.

On my 2011 SS I added a SC, LTs, two different Cams, Alky....the list goes on. I just don't wanna play that game. I just would like a couple simple parts and 600rwhp on TAP.

[CanadianZL1#992]

Originally Posted by Ron_Robinson1

So it seems that were good with just changing out the lower? Does anyone change out both? Or is it just easier to change the lower and leave the top alone.

On my 2011 SS I added a SC, LTs, two different Cams, Alky....the list goes on. I just don't wanna play that game. I just would like a couple simple parts and 600rwhp on TAP.

On my 12' I did I both to begin with. 10% lower with 2.55 upper and eventually went to a 18% lower to pretty much max out my blower. Also ported blower snout at the same time in case I wanted larger TB. On my wife's 14' we just went with a 22.5% lower and left the upper stock. We were only trying to pick up the boost we lost by adding headers, and a couple PSI more. Lol. We also did the lingenfelter Dual pass HX with fans on her car. I tried to trade her my coolerlogic HX that doesn't have fans but she told me to get lost, she wasn't taking my hand me down parts

[Ron_Robinson1]

Originally Posted by CanadianZL1#992

On my 12' I did I both to begin with. 10% lower with 2.55 upper and eventually went to a 18% lower to pretty much max out my blower. Also ported blower snout at the same time in case I wanted larger TB. On my wife's 14' we just went with a 22.5% lower and left the upper stock. We were only trying to pick up the boost we lost by adding headers, and a couple PSI more. Lol. We also did the lingenfelter Dual pass HX with fans on her car. I tried to trade her my coolerlogic HX that doesn't have fans but she told me to get lost, she wasn't taking my hand me down parts

So my question was it better just doing lower if only chasing 600rwhp, I see your wifes 14 is at 580 on 91. So the recipe I'm looking for is the 600 on 93 octane.

[CanadianZL1#992]

Originally Posted by Ron_Robinson1

So my question was it better just doing lower if only chasing 600rwhp, I see your wifes 14 is at 580 on 91. So the recipe I'm looking for is the 600 on 93 octane.

I would say you'll make 600. I believe just doing the lower is fine to achieve what you are looking for. Less labour and cost. There is also a 10" lower. 28%. A guy could pickup a little more boost with it. We tuned my wife's car pretty safe also. The car was also cammed but mostly for a lope at idle

[jon6.0]

Originally Posted by Ron_Robinson1

So it seems that were good with just changing out the lower? Does anyone change out both? Or is it just easier to change the lower and leave the top alone.

On my 2011 SS I added a SC, LTs, two different Cams, Alky....the list goes on. I just don't wanna play that game. I just would like a couple simple parts and 600rwhp on TAP.

I would only do the upper if you still have the spring loaded isolator in the blower snout. 10" lower will almost max out your blower rpm. That puts you at 21,700 rpm at 6500rpm engine speed. I believe they say not to go over 23,000. You could combine that with a 2.55 upper if you want more, but you would need to lower your max engine speed as that would put the blower at 25,500 at 6500rpm.

A 9.55 lower would be 20,700 and adding a 2.55 upper would be 24,300. All at 6500rpm engine speed.

Another option would be the Texas Speed 9.4 lower for $350. Combine that with the 2.55 upper if you need more to down the road and you would be around 23k blower speed.

Also, the Lingenfelter balancer is made by ATI. It's cheaper to buy it from ATI as you aren't paying for the Lingenfelter label on it. Although I'm not sure if they sell the 10" direct or if that's a Lingenfelter exclusive piece.

To the list posted above, it's the Stainless Power headers that are $650. Stainless Works are over a grand.

I bought some Engine Ice coolant to try in my blower coolant system to see if it helps with the IAT2 and recovery time. I still plan on adding a reservoir, but want to get some data with the Engine Ice before I do.

[hognutz]

Originally Posted by 2010abmss

Thats pretty much my plan except I'm going to scratch off the HX for now, I only drive it on the street 99.99% of the time! I'm only in boost when I really want it to be so the stock HX will suffice just fine for me!

with the HX the datalogs will really tell the stock honeslty. you could add these parts. datalog on a normal day then a warmer day.

you just dont' want a package that gets your iat2's past ~138 degrees on a somewhat normal day or you will always be down on power due to pulled timing as well as hot intake temps.

some have hinted at the fuel system being somewhat tapped out as well and other seem to be fine that is a variable you will want to stay on top of as well.

[white ZL1]

Originally Posted by jon6.0

I bought some Engine Ice coolant to try in my blower coolant system to see if it helps with the IAT2 and recovery time. I still plan on adding a reservoir, but want to get some data with the Engine Ice before I do.

Let me know how that works.