Walnut Shell Blasting in Seattle?

[Mr. Stacy]

Anybody know who offers walnut shell valve cleaning in the Seattle area? Really want to get this done...

[With envy]

The only place I can think of off hand, is Heads Up in Auburn. It's a full service head shop that's been in business a long time. I used to work in the shop right next to them. Ironically, it was a blasting shop.

[bbiermanski]

I have a blast cabinet at the house in Burien or one at work in Kent if you need small parts done. The biggest thing I can fit in mine is a 20" wheel and the one at work can only handle a 17" If you don't have a lot to do your welcome to use it.

[Mr. Stacy]

Oh, thanks for the offer! But I actually need the intake valves blasted.

I found a place in Everett that offers this service, $450 - $500. I am debating on doing it myself, just because I would worry about someone else tearing down the engine, and putting it back together correctly...

[Elite Engineering]

We can guide you through step by step if you like to do this yourself w/out the blasting. The gun cleaning brushes and solvent soak method is as effective and only takes app. $20 worth of purchases.


Likewise, at Harbor Freight they sell the blaster, crushed walnut shell media. and you can make the port adapter from a shop vac end.


Let us know and were happy to share! You may want to dyno first to document the power gains so you have a before and after. As the HP gain can be significant! As the degradation form the coking is gradual, most never realize the power drop, but are really surprised after the cleaning service. And to warn again, the solvent based engine running procedures DO cause damage if the coking has reached the point of the deposits becoming hard and crystalline. These deposits when loosened cause scouring and can result in a bent valve if a large enough piece breaks loose and becomes trapped between the valve and seat like this picture shows:


"]http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/valve%20bent%20by%20coking_zpsjzljxjcn.jpg.html][/URL]


And here is the PCV orifice barb showing how they clog:

[Mr. Stacy]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

We can guide you through step by step if you like to do this yourself w/out the blasting. The gun cleaning brushes and solvent soak method is as effective and only takes app. $20 worth of purchases.


Likewise, at Harbor Freight they sell the blaster, crushed walnut shell media. and you can make the port adapter from a shop vac end.


Let us know and were happy to share! You may want to dyno first to document the power gains so you have a before and after. As the HP gain can be significant! As the degradation form the coking is gradual, most never realize the power drop, but are really surprised after the cleaning service. And to warn again, the solvent based engine running procedures DO cause damage if the coking has reached the point of the deposits becoming hard and crystalline. These deposits when loosened cause scouring and can result in a bent valve if a large enough piece breaks loose and becomes trapped between the valve and seat like this picture shows:


"]http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/tech17/media/valve%20bent%20by%20coking_zpsjzljxjcn.jpg.html][/URL]


And here is the PCV orifice barb showing how they clog:

Thanks!

Yes, exactly why I am avoiding the Seafoam or other TB cleaning procedures offered. Even my Dealer offered a 60k mile chemical clean, but I am way to paranoid of a chunk of something coming loose.

So, I want to remove the whole intake manifold and clean it out correctly and completely.

After that, other areas of carbon buildup can be removed chemically if needed.

I have searched, but have yet to find a step by step for removing the intake manifold from an LLT.

Might have to just bite the bullet.

[mydreamcar]

Originally Posted by Mr. Stacy

Thanks!

Yes, exactly why I am avoiding the Seafoam or other TB cleaning procedures offered. Even my Dealer offered a 60k mile chemical clean, but I am way to paranoid of a chunk of something coming loose.

So, I want to remove the whole intake manifold and clean it out correctly and completely.

After that, other areas of carbon buildup can be removed chemically if needed.

I have searched, but have yet to find a step by step for removing the intake manifold from an LLT.

Might have to just bite the bullet.

There is a step by step , do a search for the iceolater that was made by rx products, it required a removal of the IM to install. it's not that hard except for the last bolt near the rear a flexi wrench makes all the world of difference. I removed mine several times when I had my v6

[Mr. Stacy]

Originally Posted by mydreamcar

There is a step by step , do a search for the iceolater that was made by rx products, it required a removal of the IM to install. it's not that hard except for the last bolt near the rear a flexi wrench makes all the world of difference. I removed mine several times when I had my v6

OK, thanks! Little tips like that can save the day.