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Old 04-18-2016, 06:22 AM   #15
260racin
 
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Well for now since everything else is ok I'm just gonna install some new gears and I'm lookin for which brand of gear has a better track record
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:42 AM   #16
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But I just read all the horror soirée about Richmond. I have drag radials and do go to the track so who has the newer Richmond 4.11 or lpe 3.91 with track time? Are they holding up?
I'm pretty sure the LPE 3.91 gear is the same American Axle gear you broke, they just were charging more for it because it wasn't available to the general public at the time, for an option Yukon gears are stronger than the Richmond gears, that's what I run in my mine, otherwise the Strange Dana 60 is the only thing you can go to and run your current axles, you will still have to get a shorter driveshaft though.

PS. You can buy the complete ZL1 conversion kit for the rice of a Strange Dana 60 center section.
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:50 AM   #17
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I never thought of Yukon I'll check them out too
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:35 AM   #18
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Yea you need a stronger diff m6 cars are so hard on diffs I know an auto car that has the same thing you do and makes 750rwhp and it holds together just fine.
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:46 AM   #19
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I was reading a little on the 4.33 gear as well. Any experience switching from a 3.91 to a 4.33?
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:01 AM   #20
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May be another silly question but does the 4.33 fit into the stock housing Cause the 3.91 were close
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:21 AM   #21
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May be another silly question but does the 4.33 fit into the stock housing Cause the 3.91 were close
4.10s and 4.33s (if I recall), are likely weaker than 3.91s--fewer teeth.
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:32 AM   #22
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Pulled it out this morning. Ring gear missing a bunch of teeth axles eaton all look good. Does anyone know if there is a Richmond pro gear available for the stock 8.6 housing? Maybe I'll just go with a 4:10 this time
This can typically be prevented with our Billet main caps and good set up.

Sound like backlash might have been too big and main cap stretched as we see so often.

Now that it broke the Ring gear, you must check the diff for run out because they can bend when braking a ring gear.

Ted.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:09 PM   #23
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I had the 4.11 richmonds in a diff I bought used. The spider gears in the stock diff let and the gears looked fine. Bought an Eaton and had another set of richmonds sent out to liberty gear for metal enhancement process and then to RPM transmissions for assembly.

Haven't had any track time yet as I'm waiting to install axles, driveshaft, and clutch all at once. I'm hoping that slipping the clutch will allow it to live.

If I had to do it all over again I'd go with a 9" since I've invested thousands into a setup that isn't bullet proof. The difference is probably less then $1,000

There's a set of 4.11's for less then half price in the classifieds. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=447402

Last edited by Irnwkrkev; 04-20-2016 at 09:19 PM. Reason: added link
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:33 PM   #24
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If I had to do it all over again I'd go with a 9" since I've invested thousands into a setup that isn't bullet proof. The difference is probably less then $1,000
this x1000

I'll be doing a zl1 setup due to budget, but still very stout setup
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:16 PM   #25
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You guys referring to the 9" are you talking about the 9" for irs or a solid axle 9"?
Just wondering what the cost of a 9" irs set up would be over a solid axle setup.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:44 AM   #26
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I would just buy the same diff. your power level isn't extremely high so I don't really think the zl1 is necessary at this time unless you have a good chunk of cash in hand laying around and your really serious about the drag strip.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:49 AM   #27
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Ted, I did install your billet caps as well as an lpw cover and the lash was right at .008 now you saying to check diff for runout because of chance of bending. Could you please explain how I can check that?
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