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Old 10-12-2018, 02:12 PM   #15
Matty Ice
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizzle View Post
In comp mode launch control only works if you enter it, that requires 100% of throttle application, if you dont do 100% and your holding rpms yourself you dont get it, no?
I'm pretty sure you are correct. You have to rev past a certain rpm with 100% pedal and that trips the computer to adjust the rpm's back down to 4200ish and hold there till you release the clutch.

Better to just turn everything off to do a burnout. I don't even like competitive mode when driving hard in turns at slower speeds(<50mph), doesn't let the car slide and rotate around the corner, it gets all jerky. With everything off I can just slide it around a corner so nice and smooth.

Last edited by Matty Ice; 10-12-2018 at 02:13 PM. Reason: wording
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:42 PM   #16
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Could just be wheel hop, my experience with 5th gens is limited, but man GTO's did not like tire slip. Sounded like wheel was beating its way into the cabin. IRS as well and similar platform.

Second theory and less likely on a stock car. Buddy had a fab9 under a 4th gen that was lowered and on hard acceleration car would squat enough for top of TA to hit the floor, sounded awful. Luckily it clearanced itself before we found it haha.

I know Solid Axle vs IRS, diff susp setup, but point is could have just been suspension, wheel, contacting the body somewhere. Id look for some witness marks near wear you heard it.
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:17 PM   #17
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thanks mgizzle , I've always done just 2 clicks. from now on it's 7 seconds and hold. I like to feel the road. the oldman....
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:53 PM   #18
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Thanks for all the info and thoughts guys on this. Very much appreciated!!!
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:59 PM   #19
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I'm betting wheel-hop, it can really shake the car !!
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Old 10-12-2018, 04:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizzle View Post
In comp mode launch control only works if you enter it, that requires 100% of throttle application, if you dont do 100% and your holding rpms yourself you dont get it, no?

7 sec business is press and hold your TC button on most GM performance cars and it will turn everything off, meaning no nannies like ESC and TC. All driver mode as I call it. Some guys that like to drfit etc have to do this otherwise a no go. I go all off o track aince even in comp mode with my mods its very intrusive during cornering.
Yes, correct. I missed the part wherer he only held the rpms to 3000ish.

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Old 10-12-2018, 09:05 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by PROZ11 View Post
"Compitition Mode" enables the launch control. So it shouldn't do a burnout at all in that mode. As others have said, pressing once or holding down for 7 seconds for burnouts. Check out the launch control video.

https://youtu.be/r9NXaVfWX8E



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according to this video, you just tap twice...and that is what I do in mine. Im not sure the 7 second thing does anything in mine

also, the launch control was new to me
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:17 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 2014white2ssrs1le View Post
according to this video, you just tap twice...and that is what I do in mine. Im not sure the 7 second thing does anything in mine

also, the launch control was new to me
Two times enables competitive driving mode which enables the launch control on manual trans cars. Holding for 7 seconds disables all nannies. It should on yours. You get the traction control light when you first press and then after the 7 seconds the stabilitrack light should come on and all nannies off.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:51 PM   #23
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Had a bad tranny mount in an older sports car before caused a banging noise if I did something like you did. Wasn't completely broke just cracked if I remember right. Probably not your issue though.
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Old 10-20-2018, 06:17 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by 2014white2ssrs1le View Post
I'm not sure the 7 second thing does anything in mine
I would like to assure you, it does the same thing in ALL 5th gen SS Camaro's. Disables all nannies.

Go take a corner at 50 mph without turning anything off. Do that same corner at 50 after holding down the button for 7 seconds and seeing both lights on the dash come on. There is a difference.
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Old 10-20-2018, 05:01 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROZ11 View Post
"Compitition Mode" enables the launch control. So it shouldn't do a burnout at all in that mode. As others have said, pressing once or holding down for 7 seconds for burnouts. Check out the launch control video.

https://youtu.be/r9NXaVfWX8E



.
Damn you for posting that link lol. I have a 2013 1le and didn’t know it had that feature, now I want to try it!
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:19 PM   #26
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Ok so after a week of being under the weather, I finally got under the car today. Checked all the mounts, driveshaft, axles etc and didn't see anything that looked suspicious. So I took and drained the diff fluid and nothing jumped out to me other than how black the fluid already is. And the amount of goop on the drain plug was alarming until I saw some older threads with pictures showing the same thing. So at this point I can't find what made the noise and everything I checked was tight and right so I'm moving on at this time.

It seems the majority here stick with gm differential fluids? My question is in the owners manual I see 88900401 and it calls for ls additive 88900330. But I've seen others using 88862624 which already has the additive added but shows it's for the zl1.

Can somebody help me on which of these 2 to buy tommorow? My gut says 88862624 would work but not sure.

Thanks guys!
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:48 AM   #27
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If you're concerned about the warranty I would do what the owners manual says for the SS, not the ZL1. That's what I followed.
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Old 10-22-2018, 04:10 PM   #28
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Quote:
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If you're concerned about the warranty I would do what the owners manual says for the SS, not the ZL1. That's what I followed.

My local dealer parts department manager said either would work. Also they don't stock the ls additive. He said that 88900401 already had it but doesn't state it on the bottle and they use it all the time? So I bought 2 quarts of the 88862624 to try out. It took a little over a quart to fill btw to those wondering. I used about half a quart to flush out some of the old fluid. The parts guy did knock off $8.00 a quart for me so that was nice.
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