01-22-2016, 08:05 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,298
|
Would you do sub-frame connectors on the Z?
I look at other car sites and these keep coming up so I decided to go to their website. This looks pretty nice. They recommend the tunnel brace to go with the connectors. Would you put these on your car? Thoughts?
|
01-22-2016, 08:31 PM | #2 |
Drives: 67RS Camaro ,Black 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1,408
|
Tunnel brace is a gimmick. Last thing you need to do is add weight to a heavy car.
|
01-22-2016, 08:51 PM | #3 |
Drives: '16 Z06/Z07, '15 Z/28,1972 Stingray Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Drivers Seat
Posts: 837
|
Interesting!
I would like to see comments as well.
__________________
2015 Z/28 #642 Black Bad Ass
|
01-22-2016, 09:01 PM | #4 |
2013 ZL1
Drives: 2013 ZL1 m6 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Avondale AZ & Indy will always be home
Posts: 870
|
No. I would replace the subframe bushings instead. That's what i did on the SS i had and the rear end was much better (replaced most of the rear bushings). The brace is easier and cheaper, but also as stated, adds weight and more places to drag on speed bumbs and curbs. The ZL1 has better bushings and links so i would just start with the subframe bushings and see how it is then.
|
01-22-2016, 09:36 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 2,155
|
Not for me, that's an old Mustang trick.
To echo what danville kid wrote. I also changed the bushings in the rear cradle when I had the car lowered. The car felt much better when cornering hard, and accelerating after installing them.
Last edited by ZL1-V; 01-22-2016 at 09:47 PM. |
01-22-2016, 10:31 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,298
|
I have thought about doing what you have done. Are those bushings hard to install?
|
01-22-2016, 11:26 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2012 Nickey ZL1 #001, 2014 Corvette Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 122
|
I added them because sub-frame connectors were required for an open road race I do twice a year. When I added the sub-frame connectors, I also added a full roll cage so I can't tell you if it is the roll cage or the sub-frame connectors that contribute most to the almost zero body roll I have today.
I know some racers say that the sub-frame connectors are just dead weight. But like I said, I added them to comply to some rules for one particular race. I have also replaced my rear cradle connectors, all bushings, sway bars, along with 1.5" drop springs and they stiffened things up pretty well. When I bought this car, I very much enjoyed that it drove like a cadillac on the street and like a race car on the track. But after all the mods listed above, it no longer feels like a cadillac. So beware what you think you want. If you want a race car that carves corners, those things will get you there. But if you have a lot of fillings in your teeth, be ready to knock a few out. OK, maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration, but hopefully depicts a picture to give you an idea of how stiff the car becomes. Last edited by Nickey31; 01-25-2016 at 07:50 AM. |
01-23-2016, 10:12 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2013 Zl1 red Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: oakdale, ca
Posts: 9
|
you could add the convertible brace to the unibody frame under the car, the nuts are already there just need brace and bolts.
|
01-23-2016, 04:28 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 2,155
|
Quote:
I think there are several "how to" posts still here in the archives. It will take you several hours. The hard part was/is removing the stock bushings. Some use heat, but there are other ways of removing them. I used a reputable shop that had done them on other Camaro cars before mine were done. Front and rear were done, so I needed an 4 wheel alignment, so I chose them to do all the work. |
|
01-23-2016, 10:51 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Saskatoon SK Can. Eh
Posts: 365
|
Hey is that the GRR in your signature photo?
__________________
2010 Camaro SS RS, Maggie with 3.4" pulley, 60# injectors, ADM dual fuel pumps, ADM Stage 2 Cam with Brian Tooley springs and pushrods, black CAI intake, Stainless Works long tube headers w/gutted cats, ZL1 Diff w/offset bushings, Pfadt lowering springs, Pfadt sway bars, Pfadt solid sub frame mounts, BMR trailing arms and toe rods, Hurst short throw shifter, Painted on Hugger Orange stripes, Forgestar F14 Piano Black wheels, Nitto NT05 rubber.
|
01-23-2016, 10:58 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 2,155
|
Good catch! Yes it is, about 11 miles up the hill from my house. It's also used in the Amgen Tour of California. Here is one of my shots from the 2011 race!
Last edited by ZL1-V; 01-23-2016 at 11:08 PM. |
01-23-2016, 11:43 PM | #12 |
Drives: '12 ZL1 #1609 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,762
|
I've done my full suspension, hotchkis subframe brace, pafdt springs, tie rods, trailing arms, sub frame bushings and sway bars. Only thing left stock was the MRC shocks. If I had to do it again it would only be the rear sway bar and the springs, that's it. The biggest waste of money was the subframe bushings and the hotchkis brace. So my advice is save your money and do something else with it like good sticky tires. Toyo R888's or Michelin PSS. (BFG Rivals suck on our cars)
GM did right in this area for this car, i wouldn't change much if I could do it again. I've done two seasons in autocross (the first mostly stock, the second not) and several HPDE events. Just don't want anyone else to waste their money on stuff that doesn't do much, so unless it's required to meet some regulations of whatever event your participating in then skip it.
__________________
Life is too short to drive cars that suck.
My build Thread |
|
|
|
|